What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

[therooster2001]

Yes, leave them as is. I am redoing my troop seats just like that.. Here's a test fit. Spar Urethane about to go on.

 

[therooster2001]

Rooster check your axle vents for proper operation.

Lindsey, I thinking that too. They don't really leak, just when I ran it a bunch last weekend. I have some new ones I pulled off a frame from Glen's that I'll swap before committing to the new seals.

 

[Buffalobwana]

Cut the sideboards from telephone poles today and fitted them. One of the four got about 1 3/4" and the rest are 1 1/2". I'm going to see if a shop nearby will plane the one down just a tad. They weigh a bit more than 2x 12 from the lumber mart.

Sunburn, sweat and saw dust is a hot combination right now!

Black, tan or green?

natural wood color looks great. Seal it with some kind of marine grade varnish, and leave it as is. Looks sharp. Very nice job. Would hate to cover up that wood.

 

[Tinstar]

Aren't the mil. ones all Unobtainium ?

Have never had National leak -- until it's worn out or abused.

They are out there.
When I bought mine, it was a new production military issue one.
Bought several actually.
The ones on eBay are stupid prices now. When they show up that is.
Some vendors also price gouge

I like National seals also.
Always have had excellent results with them.

 

[tobyS]

Oh no, I hope you didn't get Creosote burned. I've been burned several times and it makes a sunburn seem like fun.

The side boards look awesome. I'd go green if you can match or just leave them as is, look cool to me! Just my $.02

Yea, chemical heat + sun = fun.

Since these poles were for underground to hold a pipeline going through muck, they might have a bit more preservatives than most above ground poles.

I'll go with the poly sealer for now and probably green in the future. On my 817, I thought black looked good (but only one board high).

 

[gottaluvit]

Yea, chemical heat + sun = fun.

Since these poles were for underground to hold a pipeline going through muck, they might have a bit more preservatives than most above ground poles.

I'll go with the poly sealer for now and probably green in the future. On my 817, I thought black looked good (but only one board high).

Shoot, anything you do to them boards aint gonna make that sharp truck look bad!

 

[gottaluvit]

Found two things that need attention. Not a dripping leak, but I think when it articulated it threw some oil around. Both rear axels. Time to read up..

View attachment 683398
View attachment 683399

A quick shot of brake parts cleaner and it's good to go. I have had two different ones do this once each and never do it again. I took the vents apart finding no issues and as long as the fluid level stays topped and the leak don't continue, I will let it run it's course.

However, after looking closer at that 2nd photo, you may lose some fluid on that one. It looks like it dripped straight down, like when the yoke was not turning. Might be class 3 leak.

 

[Tinstar]

Sold my M923A2 and m998A1 yesterday.

Wasn't trying at all and didn't really want to.
But.....it was a REALLY! great offer and hard cash talks.

Watching them drive off was bittersweet.
Completely fine with it this morning.

Now if I can get rid of my M989A1 trailer..........

 

[Another Ahab]

Cut the sideboards from telephone poles today and fitted them. One of the four got about 1 3/4" and the rest are 1 1/2". I'm going to see if a shop nearby will plane the one down just a tad. They weigh a bit more than 2x 12 from the lumber mart.

Sunburn, sweat and saw dust is a hot combination right now!

Black, tan or green?

They look good raw.

Wipe them all down with linseed oil once a year, and you're all good.

Just a thought.

 

[Mos68x]

Yes, leave them as is. I am redoing my troop seats just like that.. Here's a test fit. Spar Urethane about to go on.

View attachment 683547

I like the look of yours Rooster, nice contrast between the metal bits and the wood. I need to replace all the wood for mine so I've been thinking about doing this as well. Only problem I foresee is that the only wood I can get at a reasonable price is Poplar and it'll have a greenish hue when shellac' for cleared with poly. I suppose on the big green monster it wouldn't be bad but in my furniture builds it's completely unacceptable.

 

[someoldmoose]

tobyS​, Agree with Another Ahab. Keep 'em natural. And, sorry if I sound like a father but I am one (and a firefighter), IF you use Linseed oil, DO NOT throw the rags ( or whatever you're applying it with ) in the corner with oil still on them. They WILL spontaneously combust. Can make for a VERY bad day.

 

[8madjack]

Not this week, but recently....Picked up a shortened drop side bed and MRAP winch. put the bed on temporarily. I still have to extend the frame. Seriously considering a dump conversion.

I split some heavy wall tubing with my plasma into angle iron and welded and bolted mounting points. picked up a 220 wire feed since then, wish I had it at the time.

 

[Buffalobwana]

Not this week, but recently....Picked up a shortened drop side bed and MRAP winch. put the bed on temporarily. I still have to extend the frame. Seriously considering a dump conversion.View attachment 683776View attachment 683777View attachment 683778

I split some heavy wall tubing with my plasma into angle iron and welded and bolted mounting points.View attachment 683779 picked up a 220 wire feed since then, wish I had it at the time.

please show me a picture of the winch. I bought 6 and they were missing the control pack and handheald remote. About to place an order from The U.K. for the parts I need. (1/4 of the price of Warn product and much better quality). Just wonder if you are in the same boat.

 

[8madjack]

Picked up a pallet of concrete for a little yard project.

 

[tobyS]

tobyS​, Agree with Another Ahab. Keep 'em natural. And, sorry if I sound like a father but I am one (and a firefighter), IF you use Linseed oil, DO NOT throw the rags ( or whatever you're applying it with ) in the corner with oil still on them. They WILL spontaneously combust. Can make for a VERY bad day.

At one point I bought a 40 gal drum from Naval Stores of the raw linseed oil and will attest that it does get hot. It never caught fire and my shop was all concrete and steel at the time.

On my sideboards I had some sealer that I used with poly but have noticed a lot of small cracks, which I made sure and got sealer into them. I too like the natural wood but with a couple of coats of thicker Behr, would not be holding as much water in the cracks. Since I have some tan, I'll go with that first (about the same color as the wood) and when the truck is painted, they will be probably be made green.

 

[tobyS]

Picked up a pallet of concrete for a little yard project.View attachment 683780 View attachment 683781

Are you stacking up the bags? I know when I let them set out and get rained on, while they harden, they are not very solid and will break apart. I think that comes from not having enough water to act as the catalyst, but enough to start the process on the outsides where moisture penetrates. Do you wet them down or rely on natural water?

 

[someoldmoose]

Whatever choice you make, those boards will possibly outlast the truck. Looks great !

 

[8madjack]

I'm in the same boat, I'll get a pic

 

[therooster2001]

I like the look of yours Rooster, nice contrast between the metal bits and the wood. I need to replace all the wood for mine so I've been thinking about doing this as well. Only problem I foresee is that the only wood I can get at a reasonable price is Poplar and it'll have a greenish hue when shellac' for cleared with poly. I suppose on the big green monster it wouldn't be bad but in my furniture builds it's completely unacceptable.

Thanks. I choose white oak, the previous ones were mahogany (just REALLY old and cracked). You can't and shouldn't get the lumber at a big box store (it's not dimensional lumber, and they charge too much). I choose a smaller lumber place, and can get the oak for 2.75 a board foot (not linear), and it needs to be cut to size. Its a big project because of the cutting, measuring, drilling, sanding, and new fasteners. The biggest issue so far has been getting the old carriage bolts out of wood that has given way (not a great way to hold them), the best way so far has been to cut a slot in them so I can hold with a screw driver.

 

[tobyS]

Thanks. I choose white oak, the previous ones were mahogany (just REALLY old and cracked). You can't and shouldn't get the lumber at a big box store (it's not dimensional lumber, and they charge too much). I choose a smaller lumber place, and can get the oak for 2.75 a board foot (not linear), and it needs to be cut to size. Its a big project because of the cutting, measuring, drilling, sanding, and new fasteners. The biggest issue so far has been getting the old carriage bolts out of wood that has given way (not a great way to hold them), the best way so far has been to cut a slot in them so I can hold with a screw driver.

You'll be tired of it when done, it's a huge amount of work... but it will last...and is beautiful. Don't forget to round all those outside corners.

White oak is my preferred too. If your getting kiln dried at 2.75, that's a reasonable/good price. Are you buying it surfaced 3 sides to 3/4" and getting full length sides (14')? Only problem I see is sun and weather, with clear finishes. Maybe it's kept inside and that won't matter.