msgjd
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diesel as in there's a mack 673 under the hood? .. or do you mean multifuel? .. big difference there
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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?
- Thread starter dezert ratt
- Start date
Multi fueldiesel as in there's a mack 673 under the hood? .. or do you mean multifuel? .. big difference there
Whorti
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Where did you get them?[/QUOTE]Found a junk yard that has semi"s
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msgjd
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sorry to hear. I have sitting here a couple "victims" of the military's 1980's multifuel swap crimes .. One is my 34000#+ wrecker that can't maintain 5th gear (direct) in hi-range unless it has gone over a cliff
.. I am glad my M51 (gasser) made it out of the system before 1981 , is a real good road-runner, can outrun everything here except a gas station .. I am not totally anti-multifuel because I do enjoy their somewhat-better fuel consumption in off-road work or on basic small roads where their power is enough to do the job
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Whorti
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- Tacoma, Washington
Where did you get them?[/QUOTE]Otherwise you can look on ebay for about $400 look up freightliner Cascadia mirrors
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Joe Bertram
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I have an early 1951 M-51 gasser recently aquire and getting running it's an international Harvester and I also have a 1955 m-62 wrecker gasser international Harvester
msgjd
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nice !! IHC was the dominant manufacturer from '51 to end of '63 .. Gassers from Mack and Diamond-T are scarce but they are out there.. My IHC M51 is a '63, IHC wrecker is a '53, and in my last BN served, there was about eight IHC gasser M52's and M54's with tags ranging from 1954 to 1963 (mixed in with mack and cummins diesels, as well as multifuels..) Things could get very interesting and entertaining when new unfamiliar drivers came on board
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- Hidden Valley, Az
Shredded a front tire on my M54A1 in slow driving around the property.
It split, giving a hiss hiss hiss. By the time I got it where I wanted it, the entire carcass was in pieces.
Luckily I have a fresh Goodyear AT-2 14.00-20 to replace it with.
Still, a royal pain in the ass.
It split, giving a hiss hiss hiss. By the time I got it where I wanted it, the entire carcass was in pieces.
Luckily I have a fresh Goodyear AT-2 14.00-20 to replace it with.
Still, a royal pain in the ass.
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If you look on the return side of your hydraulic system, there is typically a 20 to 40+ year old filter slowing things down .
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Installed a remote brake reservoir kit purchased from Big Mike's Motorpool.
When I was first MV shopping I checked out a bobbed Deuce in NY that had one of these. That variant used copper tube to the brake cylinder, Mike's uses rubber hose. I'll likely go the copper route eventually but for now want to see how this holds up. Mounted it to the left of the drivers seat. Can't help but see it when I climb aboard yet out of my way when driving. Passed the tube through an existing hole in the floor, widened to fit the rubber grommet that came with the kit. Kit also comes with a brass angle fitting that replaces the pressure relief valve. Both the fitting and the valve are/were only held on by a few threads. Used blue rtv to seal everything. When I initially opened the master cylinder it was almost empty, just enough fluid to get a drop to see if it was missable with water, it was indicating not silicone based. Refilled with DOT 3, so far no problems. Believe the leak was from a drain port below the cylinder. Sealed it with rtv and levels have not changed in 2 months of operation.
When I was first MV shopping I checked out a bobbed Deuce in NY that had one of these. That variant used copper tube to the brake cylinder, Mike's uses rubber hose. I'll likely go the copper route eventually but for now want to see how this holds up. Mounted it to the left of the drivers seat. Can't help but see it when I climb aboard yet out of my way when driving. Passed the tube through an existing hole in the floor, widened to fit the rubber grommet that came with the kit. Kit also comes with a brass angle fitting that replaces the pressure relief valve. Both the fitting and the valve are/were only held on by a few threads. Used blue rtv to seal everything. When I initially opened the master cylinder it was almost empty, just enough fluid to get a drop to see if it was missable with water, it was indicating not silicone based. Refilled with DOT 3, so far no problems. Believe the leak was from a drain port below the cylinder. Sealed it with rtv and levels have not changed in 2 months of operation.
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Someone must have changed the fluid as the stuff in the cylinder was miscible with water.
The kit comes with a bracket. There's a flat cross brace at that position in the cab, just three bolts, also supplied with the kit. Had to mount it on the outside of the brace as my shoulder belt runs up the inside.
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Hi guys, I know this isn’t the place to list things, So I’m letting you know I’m putting an ad up in classifieds for 5 ton parts. Still working on the old girl. Trying to clean rust from the one tank, installing engine block heater, fluid and filter change, one brake line needs fixed, couple fuel vent lines. Whole rear section and rear lights, complete exhaust. And swapping winch over from one truck to the other. And I guess I have to help sand Christmas Decorations for the yard. Some how I have to go to work too. Fun fun hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving. I’ll keep posted on progress.
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Got the fuel tank back on filters changed. Trying to drain the radiator valve is open completely but it is only dripping any ideas
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Blow a little air into it to clear the sludge out of the way. Make sure the radiator cap is off so you don’t overpressure it.
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- Leechburg, PA
It just let go. Then surprises in the reservoir tank
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- Wenatchee, WA
Hope they were paying rent! Something was open to the elements at one point. I had sediment draining from that valve for quite a while. I would stuck twigs and things not too sharp up there to dislodge the rust flakes and eventually it wore down to just a thicker black coolant that would drain out first for the initial 10-15 seconds of opening the valve