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Post #6757 in this thread has pictures of my seal replacement. You'll need a seal, wear ring and keyway seal.My truck has developed a slight oil leak at the front of the engine. It appears to be coming from the accessory drive seal, leaking down the front cover and blown down the drivers side of the engine block / oil lines / etc. I've got to clean everything up and see just how much of a leak it is. It finally got everything saturated enough to put about 2 drops of oil on the ground in about a 1 hour period. Oil level still read at the full mark so I don't think it's time to tear into the front of the engine just yet. If it does happen it'll be after Durhamtown in October. Heck my buddy Simp might change it for me while I'm there now that he knows about it. He just can't seem to sit still for very long at all. One positive note, my fuel looks nice and amber again. Short back story, I had been running about a 50/50 mixture of waste atf / diesel for the past 3 years. The mixture cleaned and polished through a series of filters leading to a centrifuge that my friend Welder1 built. I finally quit using the mixture once the truck started looking like the local mosquito spraying service at all times. These 250's just don't have the compression to burn the mixture very cleanly. It didn't show the effects too much at first but once it got the inside of the exhaust nice and oily, the smoking never seemed to stop. One time I even thought the battery box under the passenger seat was on fire but it turned out to be an exhaust leak between the flex joint and the hard pipe under the cab. It was smoking and dripping oil from the exhaust pipe down the passenger side frame rail. That was the point where I had to say "enough is enough".
It's not a bad job. I had a lot of other stuff going on as well in the pictures. The puller I used was just as harmonic balancer puller modified slightly to use 7/16" bolts. Cost about $10 at Advance Auto.
I did not use a pulley installer...but I will if I do it again. I came close to ruining the threads on the shaft but was able to save them with thread chaser. The nut is harder than the shaft. Ruin the shaft threads and you'll be tearing down the accessory drive. The pulley installer is an OTC 7120-A.
Swamp rere? I know you didn't...Swamp rere just did his acc drive seal awhile back. You do not need the puller or installer. Mine leaks but it's for rustproofing purposes. And I'm too lazy when I'm about to swap an engine.
Especially having to pull the water pump and readjust that belt
Get all your antifreeze ready.
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