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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

TechnoWeenie

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Nova Laboratories, WA

TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,686
1,746
113
Location
Nova Laboratories, WA
Great! I'm looking forward to getting this truck on the road. It's been a couple of years!!
Break out the TM.

I'm going off memory here, but....

Disconnect jack shaft/drive shaft
Remove fluid lines
Remove shift line
Remove pressure regulator line
Remove 1 or 2 electrical plugs (trans temp I think)
Remove vent line
Remove trans support bar
rotate engine to get bolts out of flywheel that connects to TC
Remove housing bolts

Not in that order, obviously.. but it's pretty simple.

Oh, and the dipstick...

Also, get Transynd. It's pretty cheap and is essentially a lifetime fill for these trucks if not abused.


Make sure you clean out the filter for the governor... It's on the tail behind 4 bolts (The governor is). The filter itself is right behind that, behind a single large bolts - can't miss it - easy peasy.
 
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TechnoWeenie

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Nova Laboratories, WA
TechnoWeenie, you are a soul of infinite patience:

- Wrestling for close to 2 hours over ONE bolt

That can cause one to near lose all of their religion....

:doh::not worthy::doh:
I gave up and had someone else do it.. .rofl

We ended up alternating between heat, and soaking it with penetrating fluids of various types. We knew if we broke the bolt off it wasn't going to be fun, and near impossible to drill out. Bent a 1/2" 3ft breaker bar.

We were debating if a sawzall blade would fit, but it wouldn't.

Eventually, after taking a break, I don't remember, who, grabbed the biggest impact we had (1/2 high torque Milwaukee, 1800ft lbs or so) with like 3 adapters to make the bends to where it needed to be to seat properly, and just said 'eff it', and every impact was an eternity as I waiting for the bolt to snap then I hear the ZING and panicked for a second before I realized it zipped right off like it was never stuck.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
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Location
Alexandria, VA
Eventually, after taking a break, I don't remember, who, grabbed the biggest impact we had (1/2 high torque Milwaukee, 1800ft lbs or so) with like 3 adapters to make the bends to where it needed to be to seat properly, and just said 'eff it', and every impact was an eternity as I waiting for the bolt to snap then I hear the ZING and panicked for a second before I realized it zipped right off like it was never stuck.
Man, I LOVE stories with Happy Endings!!!

:clinto: :beer: :clinto:
 

TechnoWeenie

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Nova Laboratories, WA
Man, I LOVE stories with Happy Endings!!!

:clinto: :beer: :clinto:
Yeah, like working on stuck pickle jar lid and you hand it to your 7 year old to humor them and he pops it right off after you've been struggling for the last 2 minutes with all your strength to get it off.

Yeah, it was that.

Lots of head scratching and cussing - then just thankful it was off.
 

US6x4

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Location
Wenatchee, WA
I finally finished the work on my curled over plastic battery boxes. I laser cut some 12 gauge stainless stiffener pieces and attached them with some aluminum solid rivets and an air hammer. I like how the proper concave bit worked with the rounded rivets and used a blacksmiths anvil on the back side.

20250214_110756.jpg

20250214_112527.jpg

20250214_112538.jpg

Found out these boxes are made of a thermal plastic so they can be heated and manipulated without them burning. I cut the top of the bump off with the dremel, heated the raised spot with a little butane torch, and the rolled it flat with the metal shaft. It sealed itself up and laid perfectly flush.
20250302_122903.jpg

20250302_123541.jpg


I also did a little nip & tuck minor surgery on the foot step box lid. I drilled out the spot welds of the L-shaped corner brace where it attached to the vertical part and then used a skinny wheel and angle grinder to cut the vertical part off of the rest. With it separated, I cut a 1/2" tall strip off the bottom of the vertical part and reattached it. We plug welded the holes that were drilled and then stich welded along the seam. It ended up with about an 1/8" gap between the cab.
20250407_130929.jpg
 
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