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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

tim292stro

Well-known member
2,118
40
48
Location
S.F. Bay Area/California
In Germany, all parts of the lighting must have an "e" number, this number means that the parts are approved for road traffic. Without this number, no legal driving. Another Problem, i want to achieve with my truck the historical registration, which means that the truck must be original or only contemporary accessories are allowed. LED lighting is not contemporary.
Same here, but we in The Netherlands can change/improve the classics, as long it meets APK standards.
German m1008, I think a good 200mm Cibie fixture would do you some good if you're looking for improvement:
200mmCibie.jpg
Clearly has the "E2" marking right in the center of the glass. Takes an H4 bulb so replacements are cheap - the glass is admittedly as expensive per fixture as some of the cheaper LED stuff (about 100USD/91Euros).

Yes, Germany, the land of limited opportunities. lol
Sure you're not talking about the S.F. Bay Area? We can't even have fireplaces anymore, and some guy literally sold a shack in San Francisco for $408k this week... People in the S.F Bay Area are screwed [thumbzup]
 

RobM36A2

Member
302
9
18
Location
The Netherlands
Yes, Germany, the land of limited opportunities. lol
Overhere the tax exempt for classic vehicles is upped from 25 years to 40 years..
Killed a whole business branch.
My M1028 was tax exempt, when the upped the age it went up to €606 per 3 months. Then I registered it as a truck, went down to €144 per 3 months.
No grandfathering, some special regulations only for gasoline powered cars. Diesel and LPG pay full price..
 

Assel

Member
197
7
16
Location
Germany Schwarzwald-Baar
My M1009 is registered as Truck aswell... I could now buy every year a overhauled engine & transmission from the money I save...I dont want to go for historical plate...too much restrictions. Now as truck its about the same costs per year as my Audi...

I had a headlight bulb go bad, replaced both with some Bosch H4 , for me thats enough Light for driving at night. maybe I add some LED work lights to my roof...but Round ones, I hate those "lightbars"
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
Overhere the tax exempt for classic vehicles is upped from 25 years to 40 years..
Killed a whole business branch.
My M1028 was tax exempt, when the upped the age it went up to €606 per 3 months. Then I registered it as a truck, went down to €144 per 3 months.
No grandfathering, some special regulations only for gasoline powered cars. Diesel and LPG pay full price..
Ouch! I pay less for commercial plates on my M929A2.
 

SgtHaas

Member
91
0
6
Location
Augusta Maine
Well tonight I bypassed the blower switch with a regular on off switch until I get a new one ordered from LMC. Also tinted the back window. Going to tint the tow back side windows next. (5%) Put all new weather seals where there cap meets the body. Greased the window regulator. uploadfromtaptalk1445752563207.jpg
 

86k5

New member
82
0
0
Location
Greenville, ILLINOIS
Well now the transmission is kicking its self out of gear. Ive had to shut it off twice now in order for it to go into park with out making noise. Then it went back into gear once. Another time i had to put in 4x4 to get out of an intersection
Any ideas on whats going on? There is fluid in it.
 

NovacaineFix

Member
662
1
18
Location
San Diego, California
Well now the transmission is kicking its self out of gear. Ive had to shut it off twice now in order for it to go into park with out making noise. Then it went back into gear once. Another time i had to put in 4x4 to get out of an intersection
Any ideas on whats going on? There is fluid in it.

I would check both your engine mounts and the tranny mount to see if any are broken. That would be my 1st guess, this would cause the the tranny to move and bind up the shifter linkage.

If they look fine, open the hood, get in the truck, put it in gear "D", then give it some gas while holding the brake, see if the engine lifts up or rocks around. If not, repeat the same but in reverse "R". A few quick but short snaps of the throttle will be enough to tell. Slight movement is normal, but if it looks like it's going to jump out of the engine bay, the mounts are definitely broken.

Always make sure that you are firmly pushing the brake pedal so that the truck is unable to move forward or in reverse.

If your engine mounts are fine, you'll have to crawl under to look at the tranny mount.
 
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cucvrus

Well-known member
11,469
10,417
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
003.jpg007.jpg006.jpg005.jpg004.jpg010.jpg009.jpg001.jpg002.jpg008.jpgToday I was horrified at a wiring job on a CUCV M028. Jersey Indian was a mess under the hood. Where did this guy learn wiring? Melted ground wire the full length. The lights were trying to pull ground from the front bumper B/O lamps. This was smoking the ground in the front harness. The B/O drive lamp had the ground wire dangling in the air. I pulled the entire front light harness out and over hauled it with some new individual grounds. Some did a hack job. i see house hold extension cords and wire nuts in this mess. ???? Plow does not work. It just clicks and then smokes the ground wire. ???? Any one have a wiring diagram for a Western plow. I have a couple owners manuals. I guess I have to look for them.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,469
10,417
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
011.jpg018.jpg017.jpg016.jpg015.jpg014.jpg013.jpg012.jpg019.jpg020.jpgMore of the nightmare wiring. That is a very unique wire connection. That is the female spade connection that is smashed so it can be jammed into the headlamp socket. Why didn't I think of that? I gave the B/O drive lamp it's own ground. And each of the park lamps has its own ground. I think that the missing grounds at each headlamp made the ground pull thru the corroded grounds of the front bumper marker lamps. Does that make any sense? I am not an electrical engineer but I think that makes sense. The B/O drive lamp ground helps contribute to the grounding and it was disconnected. I still have a wiring mess to figure out.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,469
10,417
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
022.jpg021.jpg023.jpg024.jpg025.jpg026.jpg027.jpg
After an entire day on the Jersey Indian I have the front lights working as designed. Now I must try and eliminate the household wiring and get some color coded wires run under the hood. Anyone have a cure where to start? I always have the snow plows from new and they are installed at the dealer. I seldom have this issue. But it seems that every snow plow I take off is hacked into the harness. Is that the norm for these snow plows. I never see this on any of mine. Mr. Rusty has a nice clean set up for the plow.
 

86m1028

Active member
1,687
17
38
Location
Murphy TEXAS
Well now the transmission is kicking its self out of gear. Ive had to shut it off twice now in order for it to go into park with out making noise. Then it went back into gear once. Another time i had to put in 4x4 to get out of an intersection
Any ideas on whats going on? There is fluid in it.
Sounds to me it's transfer case issues if you had to put it in 4 wheel drive to get it to move.
 

ODFever

Madness Takes Its Toll...
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,011
73
48
Location
Orlando, FL
I wanted an air intake line for my 6.2L for a while. I haven't been able to scrounge one off of a truck at a junkyard because the yards in my area don't keep vehicles 30 years, so I made my own. I had a leftover piece of 6" flexible aluminum dryer vent line left over from another project. It was the perfect length. I crimped it on the air cleaner and secured it with two zip ties. I cut a piece of inner tube and zip tied it to a wire to cover the positive and negative bus bars. (My bus bars were relocated to the passenger side inner fender to allow room for the A/C evaporator). I ran the vent line to a spot below the batteries and next to the radiator. I didn't have to secure it near the radiator with any zip ties; it's wedged in there and won't move much. I noticed a substantial difference in dB while driving. It definitely knocked some of the noise down. At idle in gear at a red light it's around 75-80 dB (measured with an app on my phone).
IMG_2526.JPG
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,991
4,536
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
I ran the vent line to a spot below the batteries and next to the radiator. I didn't have to secure it near the radiator with any zip ties; it's wedged in there and won't move much. I noticed a substantial difference in dB while driving. It definitely knocked some of the noise down. At idle in gear at a red light it's around 75-80 dB (measured with an app on my phone).
There really IS an app for everything, isn't there!?
 

SpecWarSquid

Member
51
0
6
Location
Dayton, Ohio
Got my tailgate window up after being stuck halfway down for 7 months due to sheared lock cylinder. Just removed the crank assembly and cranked the regulator up manually.

20151027_1830361[1].jpg20151027_1842211[1].jpg
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,469
10,417
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Why are your torsion rods missing on the rear gate? That thing must really flop open and be extra heavy to close. I just put them on 2 other m1009's for other people. They were not on when they bought them. They wer not on one gate because all 4 of the bolts were broken the other had everything but the torsion rods. Just wondering if there is something special that they get removed. Or is it that they are so difficult to put on if not experienced?
 

SpecWarSquid

Member
51
0
6
Location
Dayton, Ohio
LOL Very observant. Yeah Idk. Same story, they didn't come with the truck. I took the tailgate of my 79 suburban awhile back and i don't remember there being any special trick to it. Of course I was parting it out and didn't have to deal with re-installation. So that may be where people give up ........if that is the case. Just careful opening and closing it
 
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