• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

I

Ilikemtb999

Active member
696
45
28
Location
Denver, CO
I cut the heads of the rivets off of the rear spring hangers and then wailed away at them trying to remove the rest of the rivets or get the hangers off. They refuse to cooperate.
 
thz71

thz71

Member
159
0
16
Location
Waverly ia.
Ilikemtb999 said:
I cut the heads of the rivets off of the rear spring hangers and then wailed away at them trying to remove the rest of the rivets or get the hangers off. They refuse to cooperate.
Click to expand...
I shall be doing that soon as well.
cucvrus said:
Easy fix. I buy a 72" (6ft) piece of 1/4" and go at it. That line is a you make it your self line. It is easy. take your time. And make sure you re-secure the new line to the frame. From the looks of it you may want to just replace them all out back there while you are at it. Preventive maintenance.
Click to expand...
Good advice thanks man
 
thz71

thz71

Member
159
0
16
Location
Waverly ia.
cucvrus said:
Easy fix. I buy a 72" (6ft) piece of 1/4" and go at it. That line is a you make it your self line. It is easy. take your time. And make sure you re-secure the new line to the frame. From the looks of it you may want to just replace them all out back there while you are at it. Preventive maintenance.
Click to expand...
And the threads on the fittings are 1/2-20?
 
Rustyshackelford

Rustyshackelford

Member
478
12
18
Location
Tucson AZ
Ilikemtb999 said:
I cut the heads of the rivets off of the rear spring hangers and then wailed away at them trying to remove the rest of the rivets or get the hangers off. They refuse to cooperate.
Click to expand...
I did this recently. Make sure the heads are all the way ground down. Then hit it with a bigger hammer. They will come off.
 
gottaluvit

gottaluvit

Well-known member
1,786
28
48
Location
Bethesda, OH (AKA: Flyover Country)
cucvrus said:
You got me on that one. It is 1/4 " double flared tubing. It has the correct flare nuts on the end. The cross axle lines are 3/16" and I would change the wheel cylinders while I was at it. Less the $40. for the pair.
Click to expand...
I always take the old one off first to measure it's length and then cut both ends off and take them with me to the parts store and lay them on the counter and tell them the length.
 
gottaluvit

gottaluvit

Well-known member
1,786
28
48
Location
Bethesda, OH (AKA: Flyover Country)
Another Ahab said:
We're holding you to it:

- You promised. :mrgreen:
Click to expand...
Ok. I held to my promise. One is the tow strap hook type. I picked these up at the GA rally in fresh green but the only flat rattlecan I had was black. Had to thin the tow strap one down with the grinder so my pin would go deep enough for the retaining pin hole to protrude. The regular type is not for a CUCV either and the guy selling them told me in advance that I would have to grind the inside so it would fit. No problem, but had to make them all black. I still like them. I got two of each but only used one tow strap hook type on the CUCV and one on my five ton.
20151107_122712.jpg20151107_122719.jpg20151107_122724.jpg

Put the only two I had, on the rear. Was running only one front and one rear.
20151107_122658.jpg
 
thz71

thz71

Member
159
0
16
Location
Waverly ia.
gottaluvit said:
Ok. I held to my promise. One is the tow strap hook type. I picked these up at the GA rally in fresh green but the only flat rattlecan I had was black. Had to thin the tow strap one down with the grinder so my pin would go deep enough for the retaining pin hole to protrude. The regular type is not for a CUCV either and the guy selling them told me in advance that I would have to grind the inside so it would fit. No problem, but had to make them all black. I still like them. I got two of each but only used one tow strap hook type on the CUCV and one on my five ton.
View attachment 592496View attachment 592497View attachment 592498

Put the only two I had, on the rear. Was running only one front and one rear.
View attachment 592500
Click to expand...
I also only have 2 of the correct style
 
R

rsh4364

Active member
1,372
15
38
Location
greensprings ,ohio
Today pulled Jatonka winter grill cover from my as yet non running 85 1009 and installed on my 86 1009.Looks kinda goofy since my 86 came to me with no 24v jump port and no grill mounted blackout light.But it works well,warmed up to 190 in half the driving distance and then settled down to 175.It was about 40 out.But gonna be a lot colder soon.Then spent the rest of day in woods cutting wood with Sis and Bro-in-law.
 
R

rsh4364

Active member
1,372
15
38
Location
greensprings ,ohio
gottaluvit said:
Ok. I held to my promise. One is the tow strap hook type. I picked these up at the GA rally in fresh green but the only flat rattlecan I had was black. Had to thin the tow strap one down with the grinder so my pin would go deep enough for the retaining pin hole to protrude. The regular type is not for a CUCV either and the guy selling them told me in advance that I would have to grind the inside so it would fit. No problem, but had to make them all black. I still like them. I got two of each but only used one tow strap hook type on the CUCV and one on my five ton.
View attachment 592496View attachment 592497View attachment 592498

Put the only two I had, on the rear. Was running only one front and one rear.
View attachment 592500
Click to expand...
I like that tow strap type hook,it would also serve me as a step up when working under hood.Im a short old man.
 
CUCVLOVER

CUCVLOVER

Active member
2,352
9
38
Location
west Tennessee, just outside Milan
Today I changed the oil in the front differential. The cover didn't even have a gasket on it just lots of silicone rubber. After i got the oil out I cleaned up the cover a little. It didn't have any chunks of metal on the magnet or anything.
I put permetex on the cover, then the correct gasket from NAPA, then sealer again. I held the cover up and got a bolt in it, then I put the rest of the bolts in and tight. Filling the oil was a little difficult. I ended up cutting down a flex filter and using a cut up bottle for the flange. Then I had to cut down another bottle to use to put the oil in because I couldn't get the jug up there.
This is the permetex I used.
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/...on-form-a-gasket--no--3-sealant-liquid-detail
Then I greased the steering, and the knuckles. I need to get the stuff and grease the front drive shaft and also the rear.

Any tips for greasing the front drive shaft on a m1008?
 
cucvrus

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,469
10,417
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I installed new Energy Suspension motor mounts, new drag link assembly, Lube, oil, filter and fuel filter. All these parts went on the Jersey Indian and then I sent it to the snow plow Dr. On the way I noticed the heater core was leaking. Oh well something else to fix. Remember it isn't a daily driver and it is 30 years old + . The Energy Suspension motor mounts are the ticket. If you look under your hood and the fuel line is laying on the front cross member it is time for new motor mounts. If you don't have a fuel pump check out how close the bolt is for the dip stick. If you see a chew mark on the frame in front of the bolt. Time for new motor mounts. The new ones lift the engine about 1 inch higher. Do not use the wire ties they send with the mounts. use short 5/16" bolts instead. Hope that helps someone out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
110,697members
165,189threads
2,324,302posts
1,007online users
Top