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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
They do tight forward slightly. Not enough that you can gain access to the rear seat area. They recline nicely on some models. I just have people go thru and crawl over the console of center section. Not many times people are riding in the back seat. Except Grand children and they get in thru the tight access behind the seat. The seats sit a bit higher but very comfortable and not for guys with a big guts out front. I could do some modification and adjustment to the mounts but I fit and everyone else in my family so I left it simple and reversible to stock seats if the need should arise. Simple bolt and unbolt no cutting or welding. Terminus had the nice OEM seat bases under the jerry rigged front bench seat. Nice seat frames for the M1009 are a good find.
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
View attachment 611302View attachment 611303View attachment 611304View attachment 611305I had a serious muffler blow out today on I 78 west. While up on the hoist I had the opportunityView attachment 611306View attachment 611308View attachment 611309 to check it out underneath. Both sides have broken rear spring plies. The worst part was the front drive shaft. 2 of the 4 bolts were gone and the other 2 were loose. that is what happens when i let others work on my plow truck. I was recovering from a surgery and had a younger guy go under and put the drive shaft on. Should have known better. No harm. It could have been worse when I was running the interstate at 75 with the hubs locked in. explains the vibration I had since having the driveshafts rebuilt.

This inspired me to crawl under mine yesterday. All was good except a class II leak of brake fluid where right brake hose attaches to the caliper. Checked the fluid level and only down 1/4" so I tighten it this weekend and it will wait until I csn get a helper to help bleed the line after removing it. I assume the PO didn't put a new copper gasket on, if any.
 

Another Ahab

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Alexandria, VA
In addition, those charts look like they're using a 10% drop as acceptable, which it isn't, no more than 2% drop is suggested, IOTW your 12V will drop 10% down to 10.8V...

I would hesitate running 200A through 4ga,
6ga is not an option, in my book.
Thanks for the heads-up warning, TechnoWeenie. The chart was a neat idea. Just nothing is ever easy it seems is it?

But there must be a similar chart somewhere that incorporates what you're saying; you think?
 

riggermedic

Active member
175
31
28
Location
Phoenix AZ
6ga is insufficient for the glow plug relay if you bypassed the resistor. You will be drawing ~200A through that wire..

I ran a 1 ga cable to the solenoid then a short 1ga jumper to the 12V post .
Now I'm really confused.
stock configuration uses a short 10 gauge? wire off the resistor
the resistor bypass that many/most people do puts the full load on the 10? gauge wire running from front 12 volt side (6 feet?) and this seems to work fine
I figured dedicated 6 Gauge for each was a bit overkill
I also heard that the glow plug circuit was 100 Amps?
:lost:
 

TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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113
Location
Nova Laboratories, WA
Now I'm really confused.
stock configuration uses a short 10 gauge? wire off the resistor
the resistor bypass that many/most people do puts the full load on the 10? gauge wire running from front 12 volt side (6 feet?) and this seems to work fine
I figured dedicated 6 Gauge for each was a bit overkill
I also heard that the glow plug circuit was 100 Amps?
:lost:

Glow plugs draw a current at a certain voltage....depending on glow time.

Let's use AC60G since they're popular....

Each draws roughly 9A, so 9 * 8 = 72, so you're looking at about 72A (The 200A I quoted is for the welleman quick start plugs, which can draw ~20A a piece, still a hair less than 200A but I round up when wiring, heh).

So, if we fudge some math, let's say 80A at full tilt...

@ 80A and about 15' (keep in mind, you need to account for the return trip too, not just one way).

To keep losses under 5%, you'd need a 2ga cable.....

Keep in mind, that MOST glow plug systems use TWO batteries, because the current drawn is quite a bit...

Now, with quick glow plugs, current increases quite a bit, almost double... which, again, is where the 200A bit came from....

This is why the factory glow plugs 'suck', they're quick glow, and have no internal temperature limit, whereas the AC60Gs do.... The Wellemans will continue to glow, and swell, and burn themselves up, where the AC60Gs won't....

All the data I have on AC60G and Wellemans could be wrong, but.....


Now, will it work with 10GA? Yes. Will the wire get warm? Yes. Will the glowplugs still glow? Yes.

You will lose a lot of power as heat, resistance will increase, leading to higher line loss, and lower voltage.

What 'works' and what's optimal are usually two different things.

That's like 'minimum requirements' and 'suggested requirements' for playing a computer game....

Yeah, you COULD use a grocery bag to carry water in, but... why?


You CAN use the 10ga that's in there, but I wouldn't.
You CAN use 6ga wire, but I wouldn't.

When talking high current applications, the least voltage drop and lowest resistance you can get reasonably is the way to go. Everything else leads to wasted 'power'.

Also keep in mind that lots of things operate outside their design tolerance without failing immediately. Fuses are one of those things, believe it or not...

Wire has a failure rating that's much higher than its current carrying capability in free air.. Just because a wire can handle 600A before it fails, doesn't mean you use it...

IOTW, you don't see a problem because 'it works', but again, go grab that 10ga or 6ga cable while the glow plugs are glowing, and don't be surprised how warm it is...

That warmth is heat created by resistance...
 
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Another Ahab

Well-known member
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Location
Alexandria, VA
Also keep in mind that lots of things operate outside their design tolerance without failing immediately. Fuses are one of those things, believe it or not...
Interesting that you mention that:

- I read recently in some medical article that typically the organs of the human body will function unfailingly up to about 20% of their ability, and then suddenly collapse.

- So you can be sick as H*** and not know it until the very moment that you just plain shutdown, often without warning.

Talk about a tough machine. End of Drift.
 

the skull

Member
289
12
18
Location
mt victory ohio
If it were mine and it shifted fine before I messed with it. I would double check my work and adjust the slide nut on the transmission linkage rod. Get a helper to sit inside so you can an idea where it was originally. The shift shaft probably has a mark were it was. Also pull the spring and nylon cone out of the frame bracket clean and grease that while you are down there. It can not hurt to lube it well. I hope that helps. Have a great day.

I'm on it, it's working for now. I'll get a helper and see what's going on, Thanks!
 

Assel

Member
197
7
16
Location
Germany Schwarzwald-Baar
Today I replaced my brake proportioning valve on the M1009 (again :roll: ) since there are no more obvious leaks left I hope on passing inspection ( here called TÜV / AU ) ..also I removed the brush guard, that thing is illegal in germany :whistle:

had no choice, still snowy & cold but im a few days over the deadline for inspection to get...you can go over by 2 months, after that you´ll have to pay a "fine" and a greater inspection to pass.
 

GunnyM1009

Well-known member
354
530
93
Location
Roanoke/Alabama
Had both alternators tested. Replaced decayed exciter plugs on both. Put in L.E.D. headlights and blinkers (ordering tail lights soon) ordered a new 24v starter since the po put on a 12v one which burned out recently. Soon to be putting that and a new flex plate on. Have gone through 80 percent of the electrical connections and either replaced them or cleaned and dioelectric greased them. Got in 2 cases of simulated CARC OD green from Rapco painting is going to begin soon. I dont think I left anything out.
 
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cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
DSCF6457.jpgDSCF6458.jpgDSCF6459.jpgDSCF6460.jpgDSCF6461.jpgDSCF6462.jpgI did a complete service on the Crown of Thorns M1009. I also checked out the exhaust system. It is going on its 11th year. It is Stainless Steel front to back. The back pictures would not load. The pipe is only 2" but it was a steal deal and I could not pass it up. It held up awesome. This is the first week I had it back on the road after changing the injection pump. It is running like new and the injection pump changed out solved a lot of issues I had related to starting it. DSCF6464.jpgDSCF6463.jpgCrown of Thorns is HAPPY. My Grand Daughter idea when I had the cable laying on the garage floor. She said it was a girl not a boy. I ask why she said the big lights. ?????
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Truck Lite LED.005.jpg002.jpg014.jpg003.jpg004.jpg001.jpgI put a set of Bosch driving lights in the park turn position and used a grille from a 1987 K10 civilian pick up for the park turn lamps position. I filled all the chrome trim holes with black screws and nylon nuts on the back side. I have never updated the lighting harness on any of my vehicles. With this headlamp upgrade it reduces the draw on the circuit. i also added LED lamps on all the outside bulbs. i never did the cluster because they are un-dim able. LED dome lamp and under dash lamp done. My crown of thorns looks like an operating room when you put the dome lamp on.
 
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drewzee87t

Member
70
8
8
Location
MO ozarks
Bunch of maintenance backlog getting done on 1028 over last month:

Tracking down and killing death wobble: Kingpin bushings, all other steering is tight. Re-packed front hubs/bearings (was pretty bad). Didn't kill the wobble but helped a lot. I went in for an required safety sticker and they told me my tires were all on the verge of separating and falling apart. I am so happy to say that with a new set of tires and previously mentioned goodies the death wobble is gone and I or my wife can drive the truck without too much worry.

Heater blower motor out - took apart and cleaned out fan switch and had to replace blower resistor pak, now have heat

Dash lights out - took cluster out and ended up doing all the bulbs and circuit maintenance. All lights working interior and instruments

Headlights - fuse melted but still good. Ordering the LMC headlight harness and need to decide to switch headlights or not. I will probably be happy with full power to stock llights.

For the first time in six years with this truck I cleaned the interior windows .... I can see!

It's great to be able to drive around and rely on my truck again, it's like a new thing with the tires and kingpins working correctly.

Thanks for all the help, this is where I read a lot and search and figure stuff out. Would be really hard without this site..
 
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