What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[Drunkle Scuzzy]

Thats excellent. I believe you can fit a smart car in the back, based on the measurements.

Found another use for the 1010. Just bought a long track snowmobile that wouldn't fit in my trailer but the pass through ambulance door allowed her to fit perfect inside and close doors. Hauled it 5 hours north to ride the upper peninsula.

 

[german m1008]

Concgratulations.

And I meant to ask you; is that inspection pretty rigorous and detailed?

I mean is it like a half-hour wait, or more like an hour or more?

German Tüv could be a nasty surprise...
Depending on the condition of the truck....15 to 30 min. or longer.
They check the complete light system, tires, exhaust,extreme rust and perforation corrosion, complete steering linkage, no class II ( or higher ) oil or any other fluid leak is allowed, shock absorber and leafsprings, complete brake system......
Long speech short.... they check all safety related systems.
And as if that were not enough, then comes the emission test......they bring the engine 4 times to max rpm to obtain an average value.
And all every 2 years

 

[CUCVLOVER]

Got off work late and was in rush hour traffic, I drove the 4.56 geared 1009 with 33x 10.5x15 like I stole it, 70 to75 mph.It seemed to like it. Cucvrus would be proud .

Those 4.56s and that diesel love to get out and step down the road.
I can say it seems once you run it that hard a couple times something happens. It's either the truck loves to run at its new found speed or your Foot gets a little heavier. I think it's a combination of both.

 

[cucvrus]

Life begins at 80 MPH in the M1008 on I 78 & I 81. With the new exhaust work it runs even smoother now. Can I tell its screaming of course I can. I just changed my own oil in the Crown of Thorns M1009 on Saturday. The cost of 2 gallons of Rotella T 15/40 a Delco oil filter and air filter was $43.. I felt dumb under the truck laying in the dirt changing the oil and filter. I just had the M1008 Big Red serviced at the GM dealer for $46. Why am I doing this I asked? I had no answer. I sure was not amused by it in any way. I get to walk under the truck at the dealer and look at it and here I am laying on a creeper looking up at it. Not even close to being a deal sealer. Next time Mr Goodwrench here I come.

 

[alpine44]

WOW! You guys have big cojones - and good earplugs.

According to this calculator, the poor 6.2L will turn ~3400 rpm at 70 mph and ~3900 rpm at 80 mph with 4.56 gears and 33" tires.

Max horsepower for this engine is around 3600 rpm. At the higher speeds mentioned above you are already over the hump on the horsepower curve. More importantly, you are operating in a rpm range where the torque has already dropped significantly below max which means that engine efficiency is significantly less than optimum. Max torque (around 2200 rpm for the 6.2L NA) means max efficiency as a rule of thumb.



The only remaining question is at what rpm something is going to let go inside the engine or the valve train is going to float. Some sources cite 4200 rpm as "redline".

Why do diesel engines generally turn slower than their gasoline cousins?

One reason is that the fuel gets mixed with air in the combustion chamber and that takes time. The faster the engine runs the less time is available to atomize the fuel, bring it in contact with Oxygen atoms, and combust it completely. Keep in mind that diesel fuel gets injected around TDC and ignites instantaneously, whereas the gasser sucks in mixture from BDC and has about one entire stroke to create the mixture before the spark ignites it.

The other reason why diesel engines like to turn slower is their higher reciprocating masses. Due to the more violent combustion events, a diesel engine needs heavier pistons, connecting rods, and cranks. The faster you accelerate and decelerate these reciprocating masses the higher the forces get that cause wear and ultimately failure. These forces increase with the square of the velocity (F=m*a=m*v^2).

Just to be clear: I am not advocating for "lugging" engines. From about max torque rpm and to where the hp curve flattens ("sweet spot" in diagram above) should be the desirable operating range if you want to get some efficiency and durability.
Another note: Some folks may remember the sound of the old screaming Jimmy's and may be tempted to duplicate that sound with a 6.2L. However, the old Detroits (6V53, 6-71, 6V71, 6V92, etc.) were 2 stroke engines that would sound twice as fast due to firing twice as often for any given rpm.

</soapbox>

 

[Assel]

today I went for the TÜV inspection, everything went fine & good until the brake test: front&rear both sides evenly good, also the parking brake...but it wont release . Then we found out that it will release if someone pulls the brake cable... so thats a major problem, inspection not passed

Nothing else found, everything was perfect..not even a minor problem with which I would have passed occured...nothing..just that rusted brake cable. Now I have a month to replace it & get the parking brake to function properly or I have to pay for another complete Inspection (about 100$) , if I show up with it within a month it will be 10 bucks for checking the cable only.

But I had some funny moments aswell: when they tested the exhaust they put on the flexible tubes for the big 40ton trucks, but when reaching the deadline RPM it spewed so much soot & smoke the system couldnt handle it and the computer started blinking and threw out a error message:" Exhaust testing system failed - need immediate service! " .. so my poor CUCV was bursted into 3600rpm for about 10 times until that stupid testing device said: "All parameters good, test passed" ..I felt like the engine was about to explode at any moment....glad it was completely warm because I drove around for 1 1/2 hours before the inspection started

And on the light test the TÜV Dude somehow managed to set the service light switch to "off" when entering the M1009 and he started ranting about the truck not having any lights then I stepped on, put the switch up and all was fine

took almost 1 hour until we were finished, got the paperwork and paid for the testings...

Now Im looking forward to replace the brake cable soon, hope this will fix the problem

 

[riggermedic]

Gave my 1009 a good pressure wash. I have a few class 2 leaks that I want to inspect. Washed all the gum and grime away. She started right up but I kept hearing a relay click under the dash followed by the gen 2 light flickering to life, then a pause, and a click. Rinse and repeat. Did this for about 4 minutes
its all good now nice and dry in the AZ heat. I hope the grime wasn't holding anything crucial together.

 

[Another Ahab]

German Tüv could be a nasty surprise.
Long speech short.... they check all safety related systems.
And as if that were not enough, then comes the emission test......they bring the engine 4 times to max rpm to obtain an average value.
And all every 2 years

I was reading on some thread here where somebody's rig got docked on inspection for the the upholstery of the seats; and that surprised me because I never heard of that one before.

I thought maybe your inspections would be more involved, but it sounds about the same as the Virginia Inspections here (but every State is independent, and sometimes different, in the U.S.).

 

[riggermedic]

I was in kitzingen 1998 to 2000. I bought a 1981 Ford Fiesta complete with a 1.0 liter 4 cylinder motor..... Really quick do the displacement math on that... The Pistons must be go cart size. Anyway when I got it inspected, the guy took a screwdriver and jabbed it thru multiple spots on the unibody undercarriage.... All the way thru totally rusted out. There were places where previous owners had tac welded 22 gauge sheet metal to "cover" the rust and holes. This was all along the far outside from front to back in 4-6 inch (10-15 cm) sections
the inspector said that was all I needed to do to pass inspection. I took it to the auto shop on post and the guy named the previous 5 owners of this vehicle. And that he was very familiar with this vehicle. I got the spots covered and passed inspection. During my time there I thought about it every time I drove it that the body of the vehicle was just going to drop any minute now as it was held together by 4 feet of piece mail sheet metal and 167 or so tac welds.
bought it for $300 and sold it for the same 2 years later to the next soldier.
Best value vehicle I ever owned.
on the serious side I felt a bit intimidated by the inspector and slightly dumbfounded when he just started poking holes in my car, then charged me money for it. They seem to be very picky. Congrats on your inspection

 

[Another Ahab]

Gave my 1009 a good pressure wash. I have a few class 2 leaks that I want to inspect. Washed all the gum and grime away. She started right up but I kept hearing a relay click under the dash followed by the gen 2 light flickering to life, then a pause, and a click. Rinse and repeat. Did this for about 4 minutes
its all good now nice and dry in the AZ heat. I hope the grime wasn't holding anything crucial together.

That's funny, but it always is a risk on older rigs isn't it!?

 

[german m1008]

I use a screwdriver, little brass brush and a few cans brake cleaner. It takes Time but it's the safer method to clean the engine.......

 

[Recovry4x4]

Loaded.the M101A3 and the M1010 on a Hotshot rig and sent them up the road today. Was dark so I hope to gets pics of the load in the AM.

 

[howardc]

Got two flats in a matter of 10 miles. Note to self: Inspect Spare on a regular basis. The thing disintegrated due to dry rot.

 

[tim292stro]

Best to rotate on a 5-tire cycle:


Makes everything wear down evenly including the spare. When it gets close to time to do tire changes, do one at a time feeding in where the spare tire would go next, and the tire that is the spare gets cycled out. You may get an extra 25% tire wear this way since you're adding a 5th tire into the circulation. Better than having that spare sitting there rotting and underinflated year after year IMHO...

 

[Another Ahab]

Got two flats in a matter of 10 miles. Note to self: Inspect Spare on a regular basis. The thing disintegrated due to dry rot.

That's a double dose of bad luck.

In a right world you'd get a double dose of good luck now to compensate. I sure hope it works that way for you.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Swapped out my front u joints and wheel bearings. U joints were destroyed but the wheel bearings and seals looked freshly done. Not sure why someone wouldn't of gone a few steps farther to finish the job. Can't complain though for ending up with free axles.

 

[jpg]

Got two flats in a matter of 10 miles. Note to self: Inspect Spare on a regular basis. The thing disintegrated due to dry rot.

When you inspect tires, note the date of manufacture. My spare was original factory equipment, 33 years old. It had never been used except once, this summer, when I had to run an errand in the middle of rotating my tires. When I tried to use it again in the bitter cold, it crumbled. I now know how to read the date of manufacture of a tire, and I'll replace any that are over 10 years old, even if the tread is new.


2 different mechanics inspected this spare and judged it to be in great shape. They didn't check the date codes either.

 

[Another Ahab]

View attachment 612721
2 different mechanics inspected this spare and judged it to be in great shape. They didn't check the date codes either.

That is flat out the roughest looking tire I think I have ever seen.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

When you inspect tires, note the date of manufacture. My spare was original factory equipment, 33 years old. It had never been used except once, this summer, when I had to run an errand in the middle of rotating my tires. When I tried to use it again in the bitter cold, it crumbled. I now know how to read the date of manufacture of a tire, and I'll replace any that are over 10 years old, even if the tread is new.

View attachment 612721
2 different mechanics inspected this spare and judged it to be in great shape. They didn't check the date codes either.

I've seen one like that.
A buddy had a tire start delaminating once. All the tread flew off but it still held air surprisingly.

 

[jpg]

That is flat out the roughest looking tire I think I have ever seen.

I'd never seen anything like that either. When I brought it in, I asked the tire guy if he could repair it. He wasn't sure if I was joking or nuts.