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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Tinstar

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Because it can. I am not sure. But I run the 13 G in no less then 20 units of mine, company and others around the country. Nothing is infallible. But if it works for you that's all that matters.
Main reason was the wellmans that were in truck when I first got it.
6 were swollen and 2 broke off during removal.
Removed injectors and fished out the busted part.
Not fun.
Wanted something that wouldn’t swell and the 60Gs were the recommended ones to go with here on SS.

If this set fails then it’s time for a change.

Rest of system is great.
Batterys, resistor, GP relay all tested good static and during cycle.
The testing of the GP relay output voltage is what told me the plugs were fried.
 

Tinstar

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I will add that it was very nice to have the 5 ton.
Simply attach slave cable to slave port and not worry about draining battery’s while cranking during troubleshooting process.
 

n8roro

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I wish I would have just gotten 13's! Too late now, I switched them out and changed the connectors. Are the 60's slower to heat? I have the batteries out to do some other work and have not fired it up yet.
 

Tinstar

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I wish I would have just gotten 13's! Too late now, I switched them out and changed the connectors. Are the 60's slower to heat? I have the batteries out to do some other work and have not fired it up yet.
They heat fine and fast.
Mine started right up at -6* last winter without block heater plugged in.
Dozens of guys here on SS are running 60Gs without issue.

I wouldn’t worry about it.
 

Tinstar

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8C9E693D-EBB5-4F42-85B6-030128A7C0A2.jpg
Other four were in one piece. All tested bad
No pieces to be found in cylinders where tips broke.

Installed new glow plugs and it fired up in about a second, if that.

Truck running like a champ again.
 

Tinstar

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I’m replacing GP relay tomorrow.
Current one is original to truck and haven’t a clue how old it is.
That way I know it’s status and timeframe.
 

TechnoWeenie

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I’m replacing GP relay tomorrow.
Current one is original to truck and haven’t a clue how old it is.
That way I know it’s status and timeframe.
Not a problem with the relay. The resistor uses its own resistance aling with the resistance of the glow plugs to reduce voltage to 12v. ANY variance in the glow plugs or the resistor will cause either low voltage, which means higher amps and burnout, or higher voltage and burnout....once one GP fails, the rest follow suit very quickly as resistance is lowered and voltage increases. Best is to bypass the resistor and use 12V or get 24v glow plugs and bypass the resistor and keep it 24v. The only reason it's 24v is because they wanted the starting system to operate on 24v to comply with mil requirements.
 

Tinstar

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I know the relay installed now is good. Tested fine.
Age??? Wear??? No clue.

Just installing new one so I know it’s starting point.
 

ridenby

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Converted to 12 volt awhile back. Went to manual switch for glow plugs. Relay failed soon there after. Changed it out,went back to key activated glow plugs, not sure which part was bad,it works a lot better than before now.
 

Tinstar

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Except, if it's your resistor, you're gonna toast those glow plugs in short order as well....

Resistor checked good.

Will not convert GPs to 12v.
Truck will stay stock.

Edit:
Truck will not get the resistor bypass modification.
I know the glow plugs are 12v.
Above wording was in reference to the resistor bypass.
 
Last edited:

chief1983

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I always thought "because then the TMs apply" was the only reason needed for wanting to keep it stock. People changing it are the ones who need to justify it to themselves.
 
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