nyoffroad
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I rotated my tires and added a set of cheepie driveing lights. Went and picked up some soil for the garden and then sat back and enjoyed the day!
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Right, I am considering going back to 24v and reinstalling the resistor pack. The GPs seem to heat up faster.Cascade failure comes from the resistor. If you have 12 volt, you no longer have a resistor.
The GPs are new as the old ones failed in cascade style. They check bad with the ohm meter. I also ran the meter over all the wires in the card holder as specified in the -20 and determined the card was indeed bad. Still doesn't fire on the first try, but fires within seconds on the second. The batteries and wiring are good. I suppose I should start rotating the batteries when I rotate the tires now that the front is shouldering more of the overall load. I guess I can try a new temp sensor- they should be pretty cheap.Many things can cause it to take longer. The change of the glow plug card, your temp sensor may be acting up, your battery voltage may be low. You could have bad glow plugs already. You could have bad wiring between the batteries and the plugs.
It should not take two cycles to start the truck unless it is extremely cold. So you do have problems but it was not a cascade issue unless it happened before you converted.
Right, I am considering going back to 24v and reinstalling the resistor pack. The GPs seem to heat up faster.
The GPs are new as the old ones failed in cascade style. They check bad with the ohm meter. I also ran the meter over all the wires in the card holder as specified in the -20 and determined the card was indeed bad. Still doesn't fire on the first try, but fires within seconds on the second. The batteries and wiring are good. I suppose I should start rotating the batteries when I rotate the tires now that the front is shouldering more of the overall load. I guess I can try a new temp sensor- they should be pretty cheap.
Why would you want to go back to the 24v/resister setup? Its ONLY advantage is in jumping from another 24v vehicle.Right, I am considering going back to 24v and reinstalling the resistor pack. The GPs seem to heat up faster.
The GPs are new as the old ones failed in cascade style. They check bad with the ohm meter. I also ran the meter over all the wires in the card holder as specified in the -20 and determined the card was indeed bad. Still doesn't fire on the first try, but fires within seconds on the second. The batteries and wiring are good. I suppose I should start rotating the batteries when I rotate the tires now that the front is shouldering more of the overall load. I guess I can try a new temp sensor- they should be pretty cheap.
Make sure you upgrade the wiring going to the solenoid. The factory 10ga or whatever that goes to the stud for the 12V systems is NOT sufficient to handle the added loads of the GPs.
OK, that makes sense. I followed the plan up on the stickies and just reused the wire and fusible link from the 24v system. I have some 6ga around here somewhere, I'll try a short run of that from the 12v bus to the relay and see if that helps. If it gets better but not better enough, I'll run it off the battery.If you aren't getting enough juice to your GPs, there's a much better way to improve that.
I wouldn't do any less than 4ga, and that's pushing it, IMO.OK, that makes sense. I followed the plan up on the stickies and just reused the wire and fusible link from the 24v system. I have some 6ga around here somewhere, I'll try a short run of that from the 12v bus to the relay and see if that helps. If it gets better but not better enough, I'll run it off the battery.
I am still running 24v. I removed my resistor pack, and I can still jump and be jumped by the big trucks. As long as you move your gp wire over to the 12v firewall lead, you can still jump vehicles.Why would you want to go back to the 24v/resister setup? Its ONLY advantage is in jumping from another 24v vehicle.
If you aren't getting enough juice to your GPs, there's a much better way to improve that. Check this thread. Specifically, this post (and following) about running to the battery.
Another consideration is your GP relay. Might be a bit carboned up on the contacts in there.
I wouldn't do any less than 4ga, and that's pushing it, IMO.
You're pulling 100A plus from those GPs, they're 200W ea, which means 1600w for 8, thats 133A @ 12V...
Well it doesn't want to start at all today, and I'm almost out of parts to throw at it. The wire to the top of the solenoid isn't even getting warm, but I'll upgrade it anyway. I guess I'll start looking for the relay part number and try that.Antennaclimber measured it on that thread I linked. He's seeing 100 amps. I'm sure the inrush is a bit higher, but based on the info in that thread, I think we're safe configuring it for 100 amps.
I agree on the 4 gauge, though. The price difference between that and 6 gauge is almost zippo at the length required. Just doesn't make sense to me to go with 6.
Mainsail, a lot of folks have reported that the GP relay needed to be replaced after doing the resister bypass. That might be your issue.
Are you sure you used the right leads on the right contacts?Yeesh. So I replaced the wire from the 12v bus to the top of the relay, replaced the relay, and replaced the temp sensor. Now the WAIT light doesn't illuminate at all. I still have 12v at the top post of the GP relay, and 12v to the top small terminal when the switch is in start, but no WAIT light. I have no idea what's going on now.
UPDATE: I think the new temp sensor is bad. I plugged the old one back in and the WAIT light came on.
QUESTION 1: I'm also hearing a high-pitched squeal, like you would hear when a camera flash is charging, when the GPs are warming. Normal and I never noticed it before?
QUESTION 2: Should I be reading negative voltages on the GPs when the truck is running and warm? I'm reading 13-13.5v on the top of the GP relay (normal) and 12v on the top small post, I'm also reading a negative ~12v at the GPs and on the bottom of the GP relay. Negative volts are not in my network. I guess I'm worried that the GPs are staying energized and I'll burn them out.
It starts good now, but I don't have a good feeling about the old temp sensor.
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