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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Kaiser67M715

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NH
The civy blazers came with the 700r4 stock.
My 84 had it.
Deeper 1st gear and overdrive.
With all the updates, they are an excellant transmission.
You can add a manual switch to lock up the torque converter (just jump the wires on the brake pedal converter interrupt) and send them to a dash switch.
But, i would personally keep my th400 the way it is and swap axle gears if I wanted more top end.
As it is; i swapped to 3.73's and 33" tires.
It cruises just fine and climbs better than when it had 3.08's.
And civvy 1/2 ton trucks and some 3/4 tons. It was all a quest for better fuel economy and faster roadway speeds.

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CUCVLOVER

Active member
Yesterday I put a bracket under the flatbed to hold a Jerry can, changed a bulb in one of my off road lights, and wired up another led flood light on the rear of the headache rack. I got a blown tail light but oh well I don't care lol. Also installed my new to me driveshaft. Should be good to go for a a while now
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
And civvy 1/2 ton trucks and some 3/4 tons. It was all a quest for better fuel economy and faster roadway speeds.

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Yes GM did that for a "short" while. Then they realized the error of their ways. To get the 700R4 (4L60E) to handle the same amount of power and torque as the TH400 you need lots of money ! I've rebuilt these for several clients over the years to handle the same amount of power the TH400 can handle, and it costs over $1000.00 easily in parts alone. Yes they "can" be great little transmissions, but why go to that extreme amount of effort to just be the "same" as a TH400 when you already have a TH400 ? I can build a TH400 to handle 800HP all day long for under $200.00 . To get that amount of performance out of a 700R4 (4L60E) would cost upwards of $2000.00 . For that kind of money I would put in a 4L80E transmission ! Even in stock form it would totally out perform a 700R4 (4L60E) transmission.
Just saying.
 

olly hondro

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tucson AZ
cleaning up after a successful outing

A little rattle can touchup on the rear bumper, hose out the spilled coffee, hey, we're good. Six vehicles on this trip, the other 5 were Jeeps of various vintages. "Represented" well with the CUCV: I was the only one who took the Chute, the others took the bypass. The Blazer's wide stance is an advantage on this obstacle.
 
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Kaiser67M715

Member
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Location
NH
Yes GM did that for a "short" while. Then they realized the error of their ways. To get the 700R4 (4L60E) to handle the same amount of power and torque as the TH400 you need lots of money ! I've rebuilt these for several clients over the years to handle the same amount of power the TH400 can handle, and it costs over $1000.00 easily in parts alone. Yes they "can" be great little transmissions, but why go to that extreme amount of effort to just be the "same" as a TH400 when you already have a TH400 ? I can build a TH400 to handle 800HP all day long for under $200.00 . To get that amount of performance out of a 700R4 (4L60E) would cost upwards of $2000.00 . For that kind of money I would put in a 4L80E transmission ! Even in stock form it would totally out perform a 700R4 (4L60E) transmission.
Just saying.
Oh, I'm not saying the 700 is a good tranny, merely pointing out gm put them in more then the blazers (if I recall, gm actually put them in the light duty 6 lug 3/4 tons up to 1994 or 5)

I wouldn't run one, don't know if some one could pay me to run one. I've picked up a couple trucks that have had blown 700r4's, almost always it seems like improper TV cable adjustment is the culprit, and because it's so critical, sometimes you just can't get it close enough.

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cucvrus

Well-known member
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DSCF4657.jpgDSCF4733.jpgDSCF4728.jpgI just pulled the 350 engine and the 700R transmission out of this unit and sold it. It had a Jasper rebuilt in it. I bought the K5 off Facebook for the body parts and the new design core support for an up coming build. I have no use for any power train upgrades on a CUCV. I keep them stock and simple 23 years of ownership has proven that as the best way. Reliable, Under powered and uncomfortable. That's the way I like it. Anything else and it ain't a CUCV. Still Love the things. Just not trying to change it into something it's not. Have a Great Day.
 

Drock

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Had to replace a missing bolt off the back of the power steering pump for the 3rd time:-?. So I took all the fasteners off, cleaned them, and used red Loctite on all of them. Not my first choice but 3 strikes, and enough is enough.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
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Yes GM did that for a "short" while. Then they realized the error of their ways. To get the 700R4 (4L60E) to handle the same amount of power and torque as the TH400 you need lots of money ! I've rebuilt these for several clients over the years to handle the same amount of power the TH400 can handle, and it costs over $1000.00 easily in parts alone. Yes they "can" be great little transmissions, but why go to that extreme amount of effort to just be the "same" as a TH400 when you already have a TH400 ? I can build a TH400 to handle 800HP all day long for under $200.00 . To get that amount of performance out of a 700R4 (4L60E) would cost upwards of $2000.00 . For that kind of money I would put in a 4L80E transmission ! Even in stock form it would totally out perform a 700R4 (4L60E) transmission.
Just saying.
Well, I don't know of many folks who have 800HP CUCVs. Only a few with 200HP CUCVs. It would be difficult to hurt a decent quality rebuilt 700R4 with a CUCV.

I don't hold an ASE power train certification and I've not been rebuilding any of this stuff for 50 years. I do have common sense and horse sense. That tells me that throwing a 190HP 6.2 (on a cool day) at a quality built 700R4 is like going to fell a good size hickory tree with a small hatchet. You can fell it but it will take some serious effort.
 
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cucvrus

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Jonestown Pennsylvania
Had to replace a missing bolt off the back of the power steering pump for the 3rd time:-?. So I took all the fasteners off, cleaned them, and used red Loctite on all of them. Not my first choice but 3 strikes, and enough is enough.
They are Metric M10 X 1.5 in the stock pump. Just wanted to mention that. Because 3/8" NC bolts will start and tighten but not stay tight. Just checking.
 

Drock

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They are Metric M10 X 1.5 in the stock pump. Just wanted to mention that. Because 3/8" NC bolts will start and tighten but not stay tight. Just checking.
Thanks, yeah that's what I've been using. Not exactly sure why they keep coming loose? But hopefully this fixes it.
 

Tinstar

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Had to replace a missing bolt off the back of the power steering pump for the 3rd time:-?. So I took all the fasteners off, cleaned them, and used red Loctite on all of them. Not my first choice but 3 strikes, and enough is enough.
Did the blue Loctite fail to hold them?
You might regret using the red when it’s time for removal.
Especially in such a hard to reach location.
 

patracy

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Buchanan, GA
I installed a spin on fuel filter from a Oshkosh onto mine today. I've been having air leaks from the "brick" stock setup. It fires up quickly and idles wonderfully now. I had to make a bracket as well to mount it. But it fit perfectly overall. Also have a clear site bowl on the bottom to check for water. There's a fuel heater, but I didn't bother with hooking that up given where I live. I'm going to have to find out the filter part number though. I don't like not having a spare filter on hand. But given the filter volume, I think I can run this one for a looong time.
 

sandcobra164

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Leesburg, GA
I've read about changing out as the "brick" filters are getting harder to find. I put a new one on last spring and will continue going down the road. I'm sure it helps that my truck only has 7,400 miles on it. Saving up for new tires currently. Sarge will make his 2nd trip to the Ga Rally under his own power this year. My friend sold his trailer so no more riding backwards on a gooseneck nudged up against a can-am side by X. I drove him the entire way in 2013 while my friends drove my Deuce. Sarge normally finds a trailer to hop on. New tires will be needed as he is still sitting on his original Firestones from 1985.
 

cucvrus

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Did the blue Loctite fail to hold them?
You might regret using the red when it’s time for removal.
Especially in such a hard to reach location.
Not hard to reach. Remove the pulley and right there. Impact will take them right out. I had some tri lobe M10 bolts I used on a few. They worked well. Have faith my good men.
 

TechnoWeenie

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Nova Laboratories, WA
Had to replace a missing bolt off the back of the power steering pump for the 3rd time:-?. So I took all the fasteners off, cleaned them, and used red Loctite on all of them. Not my first choice but 3 strikes, and enough is enough.
These engines vibrate like no tomorrow.

I had a coolant leak, turned out the power steering AND water pump had bolts that walked out.....

Previously, ALL the bolts had walked out of my power steering pump, and it was held in by the belt.....
 

Drock

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These engines vibrate like no tomorrow.

I had a coolant leak, turned out the power steering AND water pump had bolts that walked out.....

Previously, ALL the bolts had walked out of my power steering pump, and it was held in by the belt.....
Yeah it's no wonder these power steering pump brackets are notorious for cracking. I'm sure its from bolts backing out. Anyway after 3 trips to the hardware store at $2.59 per bolt. I'm done playing games with bolts, heck even the stud in the back of the pump was loose? It's a new pump anyways so red Loctite and I'll worry about it in another 50,000 miles:beer:
 

cucvrus

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Yeah it's no wonder these power steering pump brackets are notorious for cracking. I'm sure its from bolts backing out. Anyway after 3 trips to the hardware store at $2.59 per bolt. I'm done playing games with bolts, heck even the stud in the back of the pump was loose? It's a new pump anyways so red Loctite and I'll worry about it in another 50,000 miles:beer:
You need me to send you a care package with a bunch of M10 x 1.5 bolts. I have hundreds of them. If not thousands.
 
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