What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[olly hondro]

NP208 output

I love tools.
Buy them every chance i get.
There is simply no comparison to having the right tool for the job.
That being said; it is still fun trail rigging stuff.
Particularly when the tools are there but the right parts aren't.
Lost the rear drive shaft on my 84 K5.
Same t case as the m1009; np208.
Turns out a 1 liter coca cola bottle with the top cut off fits right over the output shaft and a bit of duct tape held all the fluid in when i drove home on the front axle.

Is there a way to reconfigure the transfer case so that the fluid does not run out in the event the rear driveshaft "goes missing" ?

 

[chief1983]

Yes! Slip yoke eliminator kits (SYE) will do that but also require a new driveshaft, and tapping into the seriously hardened bit of the output shaft.

 

[Bighorn]

It would be a "fixed yoke conversion".
Google it.
Not worth the trouble.
I had just traded a 55 M38A1 for that 84 K5.
The first thing I did was take it wheeling.
It immediately spit the front u joint out of the rear driveshaft.
Lucky i had that soda bottle.
Course now i bring a spare ujoint.

 

[DREDnot]

Took the blazer up to the Bradshaw mountains to be used in a music video for a local band.

 

[90Jimmy]

Stumbled across this at the County Emergency Management Agency....pumping fuel in my other M1009 some guys says he knows where another CUCV us that won't start and they don't want to mess with it because its 24 Volt.... Couple phone calls and a tow bill later...Score!!!
Swapped out batteries, they were long since dead, checked fluids, topped off radiator....key on, wait light on, then off...fired right up. Short test drive, she ran out real nice. Parked it and realized the radiator leaks and no GEN2 light with key on. That's all easy to deal with, "I Hope" batteries are not cheap, but you won't hear me complain about this deal. 1986 50K and as rust free as I've ever seen. The red will be gone when its all lined out.

 

[ballencd]

Nice! I'm missing my M1009 again! Have fun with the new purchase.

 

[cucvrus]

Very nice. I hope they didn't swab out the inside with RED paint. But if they did no trouble strip it down and paint it like they built it.

 

[90Jimmy]

Very nice. I hope they didn't swab out the inside with RED paint. But if they did no trouble strip it down and paint it like they built it.

Nope....Just the outside. The interior looks just like it did when they picked it up at Ft. Leonard Wood. Seats are perfect. I did notice that the seat bases are different than my other M1009, just not as robust, to include two less mounting locations on the floor pan. It was a late 86 build so I'm assuming it was an "updated design". I have been reading up on radiator replacements and have found your info on the autozone offering to be very helpful. I wish I had a OE replacement but as long as the new one is a direct fit I'll be happy with that.

 

[cucvrus]

Re-coring is always an option if you are a purist. my all time favorites was the Harrison replacements that were sold as the Genuine GM replacements back in the late 90's and available up till a few years ago. I have one stashed for a work in progress M1009. Just so busy with other projects I get side tracked at times. Lawn Mowing season is upon us and I have 2 mower decks torn down that need rebuilt. Good Luck. The Autozone radiators have held up well for me and several trucks I rebuilt and use regularly. Lifetime warranty is hard to beat. Fit has been a very minor if any issue thus far.

 

[Keith_J]

Ran the SECM up..just to charge the air tank and get the engine warm.

 

[Tinstar]

Nope....Just the outside. The interior looks just like it did when they picked it up at Ft. Leonard Wood. Seats are perfect. I did notice that the seat bases are different than my other M1009, just not as robust, to include two less mounting locations on the floor pan. It was a late 86 build so I'm assuming it was an "updated design". I have been reading up on radiator replacements and have found your info on the autozone offering to be very helpful. I wish I had a OE replacement but as long as the new one is a direct fit I'll be happy with that.

They still make the copper/brass for these.
Identical to original

Installed mine last year and zero install issues
It’s been flawless ever since.

Pricey....., but you get what you pay for.

 

[alpine44]

They still make the copper/brass for these.
Identical to original

Installed mine last year and zero install issues
It’s been flawless ever since.

Pricey....., but you get what you pay for.

Part #: 432098 brass copper radiator
http://www.thermalsolutionsmfg.com
800.799.7237

You can order from them through you local NAPA store or radiator shop. MSRP was $462 when I asked a few weeks ago, before finding a used one in great condition.

If you search ebay for 432098 you will find the aluminum/plastic "replacements" as well as a few NOS copper and brass ones for around $300 shipped.

 

[cucvrus]

In all the years I have had these CUCV trucks my experience has been. Radiator: It is a thin finned metal/plastic pressure vessel that water circulates thru. It is designed to reduce the temperature of fluid that flows thru it by allowing air to flow thru the core. IMHO each are good and if they fit and cool water they are the boot that fits the foot. Nothing more. Most times the failures occur because the rubber support mounts are deteriorated beyond use and guys just plop another replacement core in place and it flops and vibrates and causes leaks. then right away brand A is junk and brand B is better and this material is better and this is junk. It is an old cast iron engine and it needs to be cooled of course. Do what ever works for you to do it. Spend as much as you are comfortable to do it. But in the long run if the engine runs cool and the radiator is properly secured and mounted all the brands I used have worked with only a few minor problems. Most times the trucks that did have replacement radiator failure on were the ones I used the hardest and plowed like a maniac thru the 40+ " snow storms and used them a solid winter tugging trucks and logging. I always allow failure under such conditions. And the age of the vehicle is normal wear and tear. I am made in the USA and if I get run hard enough and long enough I experience failure. Proper maintenance and servicing the coolant makes all radiators last longer. The acidic PH conditions in the cooling system are very bad if the coolant is not changed. Good Luck Keep it Cool. and I am just trying to help not argue any opinions.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Most times the failures occur because the rubber support mounts are deteriorated beyond use and guys just plop another replacement core in place and it flops and vibrates and causes leaks.

My

My family van ate radiators for a few years until I figured it out. Seams kept popping. I finally realized what was happening. The van hat hit a deer, and that's when we started eating radiators one every 8-14 months.

One day a light bulb went off and I got a straight edge and did some checking. Sure enough, the mounts were tweaked. Every time we put in a new radiator, we tightened it town, thus twisting it. Add some vibration and time, and those tank seams gave up the fight.

Now I have it mounted on semi-ridged foam cut from a camping mat. I tightened it down until it was snug, but not bottomed out. Checked with a straight edge, and it was good. So far, it's holding. Been a few years.


People on Jeep forums swear by the cheap Autozone lifetime-guaranteed Spectras. They work just fine.

 

[Tinstar]

I like my trucks as original as possible.
That includes the radiator.
Of course the aluminum/plastic radiators do the job.
Maybe not as efficient, but good enough. So I’ve read.
Plenty of suscess stories

I simply like the brass/copper radiator that the truck was designed with.
Zero modifications needed.
No lines leaking or fit issues.
Built solid like a tank and already painted black.

Agree about installing new radiator rubber supports
My original ones were shot and I installed new ones before new radiator went in.

The price, to me, is worth every penny.
Exact fit.
No Modifications.
No cooler line issues.
No damaged radiator out of box
No repeated trips to parts store.

You absolutely get what you pay for with a copper/brass radiator.

 

[Baer]

Finished relocating my M1008 from central Kalifornia to the Great Republic of Texas towing a trailer all the way. Some problems with transmission not wanting to budge when first starting in the morning (temporary fix was to overfill it). So it looks like I will get it rebuilt for the 3rd time. All in all a good trip though.

 

[Mainsail]

Not mine:

https://youtu.be/LuEJ0YldHEA

 

[ridenby]

I have changed power steering pump to PSC . Changed front axles to CV joints, locking hubs, upper king pin bushings and springs,new lower king pins and bushings, calipers/pads, new bearings/seals,new tie rod and ends. Replaced engine and trans mounts. Engine crossmember too. I am coming to really dislike V-belts. Wonder if there is a V-belt that water and stretch do not effect.

 

[True Knight]

Not mine:

https://youtu.be/LuEJ0YldHEA

Wow, at least it didn’t destroy the vehicle! I would think a heavier truck would either break right through or drag those little armored trucks down the road quite a way.

I have changed power steering pump to PSC . Changed front axles to CV joints, locking hubs, upper king pin bushings and springs,new lower king pins and bushings, calipers/pads, new bearings/seals,new tie rod and ends. Replaced engine and trans mounts. Engine crossmember too. I am coming to really dislike V-belts. Wonder if there is a V-belt that water and stretch do not effect.

I have not had any real trouble with my v-belts. They stretch a bit when new but I keep them tight and water doesn’t seem to bother them at all. I do buy good quality belts though. Usually Gates brand.

 

[olly hondro]

New exhaust system. Went from dual to single, drivers side exit. This is because the dual mufflers take up alot of real estate under there, and I need the space passenger side for "transfer case stuff".