Converted the NATO 12 pin trailer to provide for civy trailer brakes and 12 volt supply. Sockets A, C and F on the truck were wired to the same circuit, blackout stop and marker ( C and F) and blackout (A) . Cut A free and used that for electric brake signal (civy blue).
For the 12 volt positive source (break away battery and RV battery charge), I disassembled the truck connector and soldered a length of Packard wire to socket K (NATO standard receptacle for vehicle 12 or 24 volt +). Ran this wire all the way to the engine bay, then used a Scotch Lock connector to tap into the fuel heater pink wire for switched and fused 12 volts. I don't think I will use a trailer whenever the fuel preheat is requested. But if it burns a fuse, I have extra.
All other connections for a 7 way are straightforward.
Now for the adapter..I have a M101 trailer wiring plug plus 12 pin. I cut it off to 18" and connected wires accordingly to the 7 way. Now my trailer connections will be easy.
Now onto the fun stuff. My CUCV is a working M1031 SECM. Which means the generator is a must. It had been acting up, found the problem was electrical with the governor actuator. Specifically one electrical terminal screw had fallen out. Just my luck, its a 3/8" long #5-40. Hen's teeth or Chuck Norris tears, no one carries that. But I have a bucket or two of fasteners and FOUND ONE. Well, had to use my screw shortener but far better than needing my stretcher. Got the governor working.
Had a slow leak in the air system so I replaced the drain valve and all corroded plumbing. Gone are the iron fittings, Teflon tape and leaking quick connects. All brass plus all new Milton M connectors. Bubble tested leak free. Plus added 3/8" Nylon tube to the engine compartment..why? AIR HORN!!! Yes, AIR HORN! Kleinn dual tone. One more check box off the never ending laundry list.