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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

Rutjes

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Amersfoort, The Netherlands
I've been feeling like a kid at Xmas! First the FlowKooler waterpump came in then the HMMWV coolant crossover and today I recieved gaskets, belts and steering gear rebuilt kits.

IMG_20190131_153920.jpg

Now I need to go get alternator rebuild kits, liquid gasket and paint. Hopefully I can make the 6.5 look as nice as Sharecropper's!

I also sent out some requests for quotes on shipping an Offroad Design lift kit to the Netherlands... Shipping across the pond is expensive! :sad:
 
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True Knight

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San Pedro, CA
ETA: I also have the gp solenoid fed directly from the front battery so I won't have cascading gp failures. I don't understand the point of the resistor bank and feeding it from 24v. If it had 24v glow plugs then it would balance the load across the batteries, as it is the second batteries contribution is wasted by the resistor bank.
Here is the reason I was told (and it sounds true, but I’m not an electrical engineer). It’s for quick slave (jump) starting vehicle with dead batteries. The slave cable brings 24v into the dead vehicle and the glow plug resistor and starter both can work and start the vehicle quickly. - Now with the glow plugs being given straight 12v the battery would have to charge up for a while before the glow plugs will get hot enough to start the engine.

My truck already had the resistor bypassed when it came from the government auction and I’ve had no problems slave starting the truck when I was having battery issues. So who knows for sure?

I also think it would’ve been better to just use 24v glow plugs.
 

Keith_J

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Here is the reason I was told (and it sounds true, but I’m not an electrical engineer). It’s for quick slave (jump) starting vehicle with dead batteries. The slave cable brings 24v into the dead vehicle and the glow plug resistor and starter both can work and start the vehicle quickly. - Now with the glow plugs being given straight 12v the battery would have to charge up for a while before the glow plugs will get hot enough to start the engine.

My truck already had the resistor bypassed when it came from the government auction and I’ve had no problems slave starting the truck when I was having battery issues. So who knows for sure?

I also think it would’ve been better to just use 24v glow plugs.
Somewhat correct. In normal situations, the glow plugs loading the front battery would depress its voltage. When the starter was energized, this voltage depression would be exaggerated as voltage in a lead acid battery is due to electrolyte density (acid "strength"). The front battery would be taking more of the "load". Yes, the glow plug resistor "wastes" energy but it balances the batteries so the front battery does not become the "weak link" which breaks the "chain".

Hotel loads of lights, solenoids and relays on the front battery are minor and are easily supplied by the left side alternator in the 1008/9/28/31. Leece Neeville M1010s and 1028s (where applicable) use an RV style split system which is similar but more complex.
 

Keith_J

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Schertz TX
Old habits die hard. Used to design subsystems for offshore/marine work. So I worked with marine engineering/shipyards and learned their lingo. Don't miss seasickness one bit.

Still use port, starboard, fore, aft, head, galley...to the point some think I am a Squid :derailed:
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Virginia
Well, ain't that nifty. Learn something new every day. Wondered why I'd never heard of it, but then, I haven't mess in the marine area much.
 

90Jimmy

Member
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Southern Illinois
Not sure what happen but all 8 Wellman glow plugs installed last April were inop....finally got a break from the polar vortex and got 8 new 13G’s installed. I did by pass the resistor until I can figure out how/why they all seeemd to fail seemingly at the same time. Feeling accomplished....
 

TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Nova Laboratories, WA
Old habits die hard. Used to design subsystems for offshore/marine work. So I worked with marine engineering/shipyards and learned their lingo. Don't miss seasickness one bit.

Still use port, starboard, fore, aft, head, galley...to the point some think I am a Squid :derailed:
/off topic

I almost got a write up at my very first job, as I had spent the summer on a boat..... I told my manager I was 'gonna go hit the head' aka bathroom break... and she thought it was slang for urinating and..uhhh...shaking it to get any small drops off.. I had to explain what a 'head' was, and not in the context she thought it meant. lolol

/off topic
 

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
/off topic

I almost got a write up at my very first job, as I had spent the summer on a boat..... I told my manager I was 'gonna go hit the head' aka bathroom break... and she thought it was slang for urinating and..uhhh...shaking it to get any small drops off.. I had to explain what a 'head' was, and not in the context she thought it meant. lolol

/off topic
That is funny ! I had a similar experience with a Female manager at the transit dept. I said I needed to make a "head call" . She "assumed" I was saying something else and called me into the office about it. I said I just needed to go to the bathroom, and in the Marines that is how you say it. I mean really. Who in his right mind would say something "sexual" to a female boss in todays society !
 

Rutjes

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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272
63
Location
Amersfoort, The Netherlands
Installed HMMWV coolant crossover and removed the intake manifold for bead blasting and easy access to the IP. It is a DB2 4911 with an electrical actuator on top that needs to be removed. Instead of sacrificing my 6.2's IP just for the top part I'm getting a donor IP from a fellow SS member.

The 6.2 had so much crap on it that I didn't feel safe to remove the water pump, air cleaner housing and vacuum pump so I sprayed it with de-greaser and hosed it off a couple of times. Will get those parts off next week. About to clean and paint all serpentine belt drive brackets and pulleys, just waiting for a friend to bring his pulley puller so I can get the bracket from the power steering pump off.

IMG_20190202_144038.jpgIMG_20190202_144016.jpgIMG_20190202_144121.jpg

Also just ordered an air compressor. 7.5HP, 25CFM with 132 gallon capacity. This should be good enough for me to do some media blasting and painting.

360569_01.jpg
 
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rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
Installed HMMWV coolant crossover and removed the intake manifold for bead blasting and easy access to the IP. It is a DB2 4911 with an electrical actuator on top that needs to be removed. Instead of sacrificing my 6.2's IP just for the top part I'm getting a donor IP from a fellow SS member.

The 6.2 had so much crap on it that I didn't feel safe to remove the water pump, air cleaner housing and vacuum pump so I sprayed it with de-greaser and hosed it off a couple of times. Will get those parts off next week. About to clean and paint all serpentine belt drive brackets and pulleys, just waiting for a friend to bring his pulley puller so I can get the bracket from the power steering pump off.

View attachment 755372View attachment 755373View attachment 755374

Also just ordered an air compressor. 7.5HP, 25CFM with 132 gallon capacity. This should be good enough for me to do some media blasting and painting.

View attachment 755375
Nice air-compressor !
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
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Location
Schertz TX
Finally added an air intake hose. Much quieter. So I ordered the proper hose..used a section of RV sewer hose :grd:. Seriously, it was a freebie from the dealer which was too short and much too thin.

Not only is the truck much quieter, the exhaust gas temperature is roughly 100 F lower over my daily commute measuring points. I go 65 MPH indicated with 33" tires, only recording points after the engine has warmed up and normalize based on outside air temperature. Makes sense, the radiator keeps under hood temperature at least 120 F. The lower air intake temperature PLUS the increased air density means more power with less heat.
 
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wbdodgeiv

Member
102
0
16
Location
Roanoke, VA
I changed my glow plug relay with an ST85, removed the cowl and wipers and sealed some cracked seam sealer that was leaking. Greased the linkages so they would stop squeaking. Then removed and replaced the gasket on the kick panel vent which was also leaking.

I left the cowl and screen on the top of the truck and the wind took them for a ride and now I’m missing a metal clip. Where can I get a #7 below, I tried LMC:

72B0C157-2198-4E40-9578-208ACC4E95A8.jpg
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,265
2,959
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I changed my glow plug relay with an ST85, removed the cowl and wipers and sealed some cracked seam sealer that was leaking. Greased the linkages so they would stop squeaking. Then removed and replaced the gasket on the kick panel vent which was also leaking.

I left the cowl and screen on the top of the truck and the wind took them for a ride and now I’m missing a metal clip. Where can I get a #7 below, I tried LMC:

View attachment 756661
Ouch ! Your best bet now is a wrecking yard. I haven't seen those for sell in years.
Maybe someone here like CUCVRUS will have them.
 
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