What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[NovacaineFix]

Let me see, let me see.

How does the hokey pokey song go? Take 1 step forward now take 2 steps back, do the hokey pokey and curse and swear a lot, that's what it's all about, errr something like that.

Okay, got some, if not all my electrical gremlins taken care of, even the ones that weren't causing an issue yet.

1. Did my Doghead relay mod, didn't have a problem with the OEM one (yet).
2. Did my headlight wiring update/upgrade with relays (yay)
3. Got my 100 amp sub-panel installed and working (don't worry, not using all 100 amps, that would be crazy!!)

#1 I had the OEM style square starter relay, but hadn't had any trouble with it since I have had the truck, but I know me, it will happen and in the worst place possible and at the wrong time. I'm going on a desert trek next month, so I figured as simple as it is to do, may as well do it now.


All went well and everything works as it did before. Only difference that I notice is the louder click when I go to start it. I did notice that I have the same relay for my glow plugs on the firewall.

#2 Headlight upgrade (relay mod). This came about during my last desert trek in Death Valley when I lost my headlights up in the mountain trails, fun. Without realizing and researching it 1st, like I should have, I connected my LED running lamps to a fuse tap that was connected and plugged into my headlight fuse location. Looking back, that was probably the stupidest spot I could have used for power, but I did and as many have also did, so I'm not alone. Anyway, as we all know that the headlight circuit is already somewhat overloaded, so adding another load on top of that is just asking for something to happen, and it did.
I took the LED lamps off completely, disassembled the fuse block cleaned and greased it and started to lighten the electrical load off of that circuit by doing the headlight upgrade with the Bosch style relays. Here it is before I made it all pretty like with the burnt and slightly melted fuse block.




#3 My electrical sub-panel. I needed a nice expandable and reliable source for battery power without adding a bunch of new(er) cables to the battery or the terminal block. That can start to look nasty when adding new circuits and be hard to diagnose if there is a problem, so I installed a sub-panel. Tapped off of the 12V + terminal block for battery power and fused with a 100amp Max fuse for safety. The sub-panel is made by Blue Sea (part number 5026). It has spaces for up to 12 circuits and also includes a negative bus bar and has a cover. Just so I did not overload the lead to the terminal block, I ran a 10 gage wire from the rear battery to the terminal block. It's nice because if you need to run anything it has a terminal lug and a fuse holder already in place. If you need to power a device in "key on" or "run" position you can use this to power a relay that is tapped from the ignition so that it is not a drain on that circuit.

sub panel link>>>https://www.bluesea.com/products/5026/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_12_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover


Still got to pretty up the wires, nut the spot next to the wiper motor is just perfect for this panel.

Now about the hokey pokey part...

while doing all this, I have been fighting this nagging coolant leak. Everything in the cooling system is new, radiator, hoses, T-stat, water pump and heater core, but some mornings I come out and there is a small puddle of coolant under the truck under the filler neck/radiator cap location. Every time I look for the leak, can't find it, no traces of leakage anywhere, well until now. Found that the freeze plugs are seeping, so it look like I will be doing those pretty soon as well.

 

[usabamaman]

Hey Nova, are the headlights noticeably brighter now with that setup?

 

[NovacaineFix]

Hey Nova, are the headlights noticeably brighter now with that setup?

Haven't had the chance to really see. Was working on the truck and around the house all day so I'm kind of beat and don't want to go anywhere. I will check and update later.

 

[RobM36A2]

Last weekend decided to tackle the "Why does the european trailer plug not work" issue.

Since I did not have a soldier B at hand, i used a set of trailer lights to test all the stuff.
It seemed a pretty easy grounding issue, but it wasn't...

So I needed the plug to come of.. Bolts rusted solid, so had to use a hammer and chisel for the plug
and a cutter for the wires. After inspecting the inside, I could see why it did not work... Dirt, rust and corrosion...

After cleaning up the mounting point, I made the wires all tidy and got me a new trailer plug from some army stock in Belgium.
Reconnected the wires, and tested the setup. It tested great! All is working again.
A quick dab of hot glue to keep the dirt and grime out and mounted it all up.
When the weather gets warmer, I will put some black spraypaint on there.

 

[Durango_USMC]

Moved around the M103A3 with the gensets to their semi permanent home. Noticed a newly formed electrical bug. Left turn signal stays on constantly, no more clicks. Is dim/nearly visible ubless left turn signal is depressed/on. Otherwise the front marker light and turn signal dont want to work. So searched on here, a lot, ended up grabbing a new bulb, new marker light bulb, new relay, and new turn signal socket. After a more indeth analysis, I couldve just gotten the signal bulb and socket. Now I need to find the time to get to work on it. New socket is going to be a tricky install for me at least.

 

[chief1983]

Sockets aren't bad, already done two on my truck. Just need good wire strippers and snips, and some correctly gauged butt connectors, or whatever your connector preference is. And I always crimp connectors with channellocks but whatever you have that crushes really well. Electrical upgrades are some of things I enjoy doing most on my truck.

 

[RobM36A2]

Today, I ran in another issue.. The passenger side window won't roll up the last few inches, unless I help it up.

What to do? The rollers are in the slots, the channels are clean, everything greased and still no luck..

 

[cucvrus]

Check the regulator gear. Is it lubed well and I remove the regulator on a few and grease them and get them working well and put them back in. A lot of crud in the gear crank and gears of the regulator. My guess from afar. Good Luck. How about a long mirror bolt in the door hitting the sash?????

 

[Durango_USMC]

Sockets aren't bad, already done two on my truck. Just need good wire strippers and snips, and some correctly gauged butt connectors, or whatever your connector preference is. And I always crimp connectors with channellocks but whatever you have that crushes really well. Electrical upgrades are some of things I enjoy doing most on my truck.

Thanks for the channel lock tip. I just need to find time and dry weather to get it done. Also noticed it seemed to be dragging. Think the parking brake may be out of adjustment again.... ugh. Spent all last summer rebuilding the entire rear brake system.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Sockets aren't bad, already done two on my truck. Just need good wire strippers and snips, and some correctly gauged butt connectors, or whatever your connector preference is. And I always crimp connectors with channellocks but whatever you have that crushes really well. Electrical upgrades are some of things I enjoy doing most on my truck.

Channel locks won't press down hard enough to get a good crimp, and if you ARE getting a good crimp with channel locks, then you're using a low quality connector or you're a body builder, heh.

Ratcheting crimpers aren't that expensive, only about $30... and if you want to use a tool that you already have, use vice grips, they will crimp in a pinch, although I don't suggest it as you can chew through the insulation.

I would also suggest waterproof shrink connectors, they insulate and seal. While they're a little more expensive, it'll save you frustration in the long run from tracing down corroded wiring...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRiTQJN5Dc8


If you do use standard butt connectors, use shrink tube and dielectric grease or even brush on electrical tape...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgUgh3gphA8

 

[drewzee87t]

got my LMC headlight harness today and installed it. Super easy, works great. Very happy. The lights are a lot brighter IMHO.

 

[cucvrus]

New rattle in the front of the Big Red M1008. I really do take notice to any new sounds. I have no radio and no sound proofing. Just a bare sprayed Line X floor in the cab. The rattle got progressively worse as the week went on. Aha I found it.I was at the GM dealer with another truck when I found it. It was not a warranted expense. I bought 4 new Gabriel gas shocks at Autozone $163. for everything. Easy fix. I am going to get new springs the whole way around on Big Red M1008. I just wanted to show you my Diesel Logsplitter. It is my favorite hobby of all time cutting and splitting wood. No one bothers me and you just keep going and going. Like putting money in the bank each piece you cut and split. Not a CUCV but cool none the less.

 

[marchplumber]

New rattle in the front of the Big Red M1008. I really do take notice to any new sounds. I have no radio and no sound proofing. Just a bare sprayed Line X floor in the cab. The rattle got progressively worse as the week went on. Aha I found it.View attachment 613745I was at the GM dealer with another truck when I found it. It was not a warranted expense. I bought 4 new Gabriel gas shocks at Autozone $163. for everything. Easy fix. I am going to get new springs the whole way around on Big Red M1008. View attachment 613746View attachment 613747I just wanted to show you my Diesel Logsplitter. It is my favorite hobby of all time cutting and splitting wood. No one bothers me and you just keep going and going. Like putting money in the bank each piece you cut and split. Not a CUCV but cool none the less.

Yep, think you might have found it! Seems a tad loose at the top. LOL Are you getting the springs from a dealer or off the internet?

 

[Durango_USMC]

Still got more problems to hunt down, cleaned a couple grounds, need to clean more of them or do a better job next go around. Still need to find out what suddenly has it dragging like the parking brake is on. Wasnt like that when I parked it a couple months ago. Somehow the shift indicator dropped lower as well and is somehow off center. I can barely see it and it usually reads too far off to the left. So the arrow for example is nearly impossible to see and left of where it ought to be. Gotta love the quirks right?

TechnoWeenie,

Thanks for the tip on good crimpers and the liquid electrical tape. Also got the waterproof commectors etc. Driverside looks great! Now looks like the passengerside probably needs the same treatment.

 

[NovacaineFix]

Had to do an emergency heater core bypass on the side of the road the other day. Heater core #3 burst where the core meets the header (between the fins).

Got it replaced, warranty, waiting to see how long this one will last. This makes 3 heater cores in less than 2 months.

At this rate, I'll be able to change them while the engine is running.

 

[cucvrus]

Yep, think you might have found it! Seems a tad loose at the top. LOL Are you getting the springs from a dealer or off the internet?

I have 2 of the CUCV plow trucks that are long on the tooth. The springs are sprung and I will be getting new sets for both trucks. I buy springs from Stanley Springs in Harrisburg PA. I want to put another set of the heavy front springs on both like I did on Mr Rusty. At 30 years old these springs have all reached the age to be replaced. Even just sitting on the springs empty the fatigue of the springs is evident. I will post pictures for sure. Take care. Good Luck with your projects. I have loads of them as spring has about sprung. More snow in the forecast. Really.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I have found that many of the auto parts that come with a lifetime warranty guarantees that you will spend a lifetime replacing them. Heater cores seem to be up there.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

Did some more trimming. Still need to cut a bit more behind it and then weld in place.

 

[98G]

I went to test drive a pretty good looking M1008. Jumped it and got it running. Drove it about a mile down the road and it died, showing 3/4 of a tank. Poured abut 10 gal of diesel in it and tried to restart it. Starter bolts snapped off in the block.

And to think I was considering driving it from OKC to Tucson.

I guess I dodged a bullet on that one....

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Got it replaced, warranty, waiting to see how long this one will last. This makes 3 heater cores in less than 2 months.

Do yourself a favor. Pop off the radiator cap. Drag out your multi meter, stick that black lead on a good ground point, and dip the red lead in the coolant at the radiator neck. Don't touch the radiator itself, just the coolant.

I'm guessing you'll see a few volts. If you do, your radiator is probably not far behind. It's being eaten.

Time for a good flush, replace radiator, and make sure the radiator and the heater core are well grounded. Don't assume they are grounded just because they are mounted. I did this recently on my van to cure the same kind of problem. Ran a ground lead right from the radiator itself to the main ground point where the battery grounds to the body. No more voltage in the radiator neck.