Used the cateye and blackout wiring for power to an underhood work light and bumper mount utlity lights front and rear.
Since I don't foresee myself in a midnight convoy, nor do I need to illuminate the path for a foot soldier guide, I removed the cateyes and blackout light.
Using the cat eye wiring from the front bumper driver side to power a 50 watt Hella Halogen flood light.
Using the cat eye wiring from the front bumper passenger side to power an led utility work light under the hood.
Using the cat eye wiring from the rear bumper driver side to power an led utility light mounted in the rear bumper cat eye location.
The stock M1009 interlocked headlight switch set to blackout and engaging the blackout switch on the left powers on all three work lights.
Since I did not want the service lights on drawing power while the work lights are on, this offered a simple solution.
I am selling the other lights here on classified.
They all worked except for the spotlights which just need new bulbs.
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By the way, if you don't know how these switches work;
The service lights are obvious.
When you select ALL OFF it kills everything; Lights, Blinkers, Horn, Brakes lights, everything.
When you select Blackout everything is still dead except the cat eye circuit comes on until you flip the Blackout switch on the left up once, then the blackout driving light circuit also comes on.
It won't stay up.
This is normal.
It engages the blackout/cateye circuits and powers those or in my case; worklights.
If you switch back to service lights it automatically de-energizes the blackout/cateye circuits.
I have the grill out clean up the Horn wiring and refresh the ground wires.