What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[TechnoWeenie]

New exhaust system. Went from dual to single, drivers side exit. This is because the dual mufflers take up alot of real estate under there, and I need the space passenger side for "transfer case stuff".
View attachment 727001

You can just take the transfer case out. No one needs that.

 

[sneekyeye]

I finally got my winch installed. I put in a 12k badlands from Harbor Freight in between the front frame rails behind the bumper.
I measured the width between the rails, and cut the mount to fit. One of the bolt holes wasn't quite right so I had to dust off my welder and fill about a half inch gap gradually. I used the front top bolt hole for the shackle mounts to line up both sides at the front of the frame.
I took a cut down 1/2 drill bit into work and sharpened it on the drill doctor so it would fit on my right angle between the frame rails to make the rear holes.
I used the rear of the reinforcing plate to attempt to line it up square. It isn't perfect, but it's only about a eighth inch or so off square.
I ended up mounting the control box on the driver fender next to the washer reservoir and using some 2 gauge wire scavenged from a bad jump box as the extended wires.
Did have to notch the very front of the plate to clear the front shackle mount bolt nuts, but that wasn't too bad. We cut the license plate area out of the front bumper and about an inch off of the bottom of the bumper where it was hitting the winch.

All in all it took about a week of after work work to get it put on. I had to use it last Saturday when I slid down into a wet clay slop at Hawk Pride offroad in north AL. We attached to a tree off in the woods and pulled us right out. I'm planning on getting a roller fairlead license plate holder and one of those urethane winch hook holders that sit between the rollers to hide it.

 

[olly hondro]

I have changed power steering pump to PSC . Changed front axles to CV joints, locking hubs, upper king pin bushings and springs,new lower king pins and bushings, calipers/pads, new bearings/seals,new tie rod and ends. Replaced engine and trans mounts. Engine crossmember too. I am coming to really dislike V-belts. Wonder if there is a V-belt that water and stretch do not effect.

I'm thinkin' that an electric fan + switch does not stretch...

 

[olly hondro]

You can just take the transfer case out. No one needs that.

Oh, and I was gonna put two of them in there....

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I ended up mounting the control box on the driver fender next to the washer reservoir and using some 2 gauge wire scavenged from a bad jump box as the extended wires.

You've got a fire waiting to start there. Your hot lead off the battery needs some kind of a standoff or wire loom or something to keep it from rubbing on grounded metal.

 

[sneekyeye]

Right now the main power cable is running above the fan shroud zip tied to the coolant reservoir hose. I think its ok for now, and I hope the circuit breakers would blow if it did short. I do need to do a little more wire management down below. It's just sort of running on top of the front of the steering box and around the bottom corner of the radiator shroud. I have a bunch of wire loom at work and could check and see if it fits 2 gauge wire

 

[True Knight]

I'm thinkin' that an electric fan + switch does not stretch...

Plus it would free up about 30ish HP.

 

[rustystud]

I finally got my winch installed. I put in a 12k badlands from Harbor Freight in between the front frame rails behind the bumper.
I measured the width between the rails, and cut the mount to fit. One of the bolt holes wasn't quite right so I had to dust off my welder and fill about a half inch gap gradually. I used the front top bolt hole for the shackle mounts to line up both sides at the front of the frame.
I took a cut down 1/2 drill bit into work and sharpened it on the drill doctor so it would fit on my right angle between the frame rails to make the rear holes.
I used the rear of the reinforcing plate to attempt to line it up square. It isn't perfect, but it's only about a eighth inch or so off square.
I ended up mounting the control box on the driver fender next to the washer reservoir and using some 2 gauge wire scavenged from a bad jump box as the extended wires.
Did have to notch the very front of the plate to clear the front shackle mount bolt nuts, but that wasn't too bad. We cut the license plate area out of the front bumper and about an inch off of the bottom of the bumper where it was hitting the winch.

All in all it took about a week of after work work to get it put on. I had to use it last Saturday when I slid down into a wet clay slop at Hawk Pride offroad in north AL. We attached to a tree off in the woods and pulled us right out. I'm planning on getting a roller fairlead license plate holder and one of those urethane winch hook holders that sit between the rollers to hide it.

View attachment 727017View attachment 727016View attachment 727015View attachment 727014View attachment 727012View attachment 727013View attachment 727010View attachment 727011

I can see in the front view shot that your wheels have to much "Toe-In" . It's either that or your "Camber" is very "Negative" . Either way you might want to take your truck in for an alignment.
On another topic, I like that you went with the Harbor Freight "Badlands winch". I own several and they are great units ! Well worth the money.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Right now the main power cable is running above the fan shroud zip tied to the coolant reservoir hose. I think its ok for now, and I hope the circuit breakers would blow if it did short.

What circuit breakers? I don't see any between the battery terminal and the cable, unless those box-looking things on the terminal are a kind of CB I haven't seen before. It looks to me like the cable runs straight off the +12v terminal and makes a sharp bend and rubs against your filler neck. That's a wear point. It may take years, but eventually that will wear through and make things very interesting.

By the way, black cable ties last a lot longer than white ones. The carbon in them makes them much less susceptible to UV and ozone damage. I never use white anymore. The price difference just doesn't make sense when you consider how much longer the black ones last.

 

[joshuak]

oh, and i was gonna put two of them in there....

np203/np205?

 

[ywgspotter]

Haven't done all too much lately on the M1009. Had the starter give out on me around Christmas so I was without it for about 4 weeks. Now I've learned that a local auto electric shop can get 28MT's for $200 CAD... Good to know for my spare one. Planning on getting spare alternator as well. Need to diagnose a coolant leak that seems to be coming from a rubber hose to attached to the crossover pipe. Been doing some painting "fix ups" but higher on the priority list is attacking the surface rust with some POR15 along the fenders. Once I do that I'll worry about cosmetics. Got the injection pump changed out with a DB2-4544 so that checks another item off. Lastly going to do the front crank seal and harmonic balancer, perhaps the main pulley too but I'll see. All in all I can't complain all too much for relying on it to get me to work and back every day along with my other ridiculous outings.

 

[olly hondro]

np203/np205?

Yes 203/205, also considering 208/241 as I have that hardware. Better yet, next years tax refund for a Magnum box

 

[Keith_J]

Plus it would free up about 30ish HP.

Even with belt drag, it is more like 5 HP at max speed. The fan is clutched so it only engages fully at high temperature.

 

[sneekyeye]

What circuit breakers?

The little boxes are self resetting 50 Amp circuit breakers wired parallel. I can only assume that it would trip them all at a 150 Amp load. It does seem a little janky, but that's how it came.

It looks to me like the cable runs straight off the +12v terminal and makes a sharp bend and rubs against your filler neck.

It has ever so slight amount of room, about a quarter inch, between the wire and filler neck. My radiator has plastic side tanks, and I'm not really worried about it shorting there. I'm more worried about it where the three power lines to the winch flop over the trans cooler lines and the corner of the frame at the bottom of the fan shroud. I'm looking into the plastic split loom to go around all of that business. Then I'll use more white zip ties and zip tie it to things.

By the way, black cable ties last a lot longer than white ones. The carbon in them makes them much less susceptible to UV and ozone damage.

I dunno, I just use what I have on hand. I don't even remember how or when I got those things.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

The little boxes are self resetting 50 Amp circuit breakers wired parallel.

Interesting. I've never seen those before.

I can only assume that it would trip them all at a 150 Amp load.

In theory, it should.....

I'm more worried about it where the three power lines to the winch flop over the trans cooler lines and the corner of the frame at the bottom of the fan shroud. I'm looking into the plastic split loom to go around all of that business.

That's good. It's cheap, too. If you have a spot where it's really got some pressure and vibration, you might want to add a short length of split heater hose right at that spot.

 

[FrankenCub]

The weather finally cooperated so I had a chance to work on my brakes. Started on the passanger's side thinking the noise was coming from the driver's side, do the easy one first. Nope, apparently couldn't tell which side it was
Had a heck of a time getting the drum off, adjuster was froze up of course. Once I got it pried off the insides fell on the ground, literally lol. The material separated from the shoes and wasn't getting stuck in there, it was going around with the drum and causing the surging feeling I was getting under braking. The seals were shot too so called Napa and they had 2 left on the shelf so I ran right down to get them, and new axle gaskets. The rest of the parts I already had.
I was surprised however, the drums are in great shape. I'll finish adjusting and bleeding them tomorrow afternoon.

 

[True Knight]

Even with belt drag, it is more like 5 HP at max speed. The fan is clutched so it only engages fully at high temperature.

Maybe 5 at lower temps before the fan clutch really locks in, but when it’s fully engaged they eat a ton of power.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Y'all quit arguing. The dyno tells the story. You can skip the first 30 seconds intro.

TLDR: Depending on fan type, 14 to 30 hp. Best (least loss) was the factory thermostatic fan clutch. Worst was a fixed-blade steel fan.

https://youtu.be/ZXdLgaFXZzs

 

[FrankenCub]

One of the comments concerning this was for using electric fans to eliminate belt stretch....
Still doesn't matter, gotta have the belts to drive the alternators lol.

 

[Ilikemtb999]

I picked up some new seats for the rear. Can’t beat free99. Just need to make some brackets for them.