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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

85CUCVtom

Active member
712
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28
Location
Lakewood, Ohio
I'm finally ready to begin work on my blazer again. I painted it a couple summers ago, put everything back together and life happened and she sat in the garage. I've maintained the charge on the batteries, started and test ran every few weeks and drove it a couple times here and there but now, I'm in a better place and ready to start wrenching again.

First job is to repair a pesky brake fluid leak from the proportioning valve. I replaced the valve a while back and for whatever reason, it's leaking. Second task, shocks, spring bushings, Offroad Design shackles and an Offroad Design steering box support bracket. I've been collecting parts for a little while haha.

I can't wait to get back into this truck
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Took the governor cover off the IP and changed the shutoff solenoid.

Those anti-tamper screws were a lot of drama; really not sure why they used them. None of my anti-tamper torx would fit. I ended up having to tap the T25 on with a hammer.

Truck started up and I drove it around for about 20 minutes to make sure it wasn't going to die again. It'll be back as a daily driver for work next week- might take some time before my confidence in it comes back enough to take it up to the mountains.

Nothing in my hardware stash would work for replacements for those torx screws.

If anyone has a dead IP and is willing to part with some regular screws let me know- it'll be a lot easier than trying to find some around here.

View attachment 820588
Basically take the torx screws to the hardware store and get replacement hex head bolts/the same size and length. 5/16-8mm headed bolt work best. a dab of never seize and your all set. When your ready to get that pump rebuilt just keep in mind that it will make great improvements and is very easy to do. No Fear. Happy Holidays.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,323
113
Location
Schertz TX
I took the M1031 SECM to town for what else? A parts run! For the daily driver..German Engineering at its finest, the brake light switch gave out on the VW. In this suburb of San Antonio, only 4 miles to the Irish proprietors parts store and under 7 dollars!
Truck ran great, sensible heat by the third mile and toasty all the way back. Switch took seconds to install. Guess that is why I have the mechanics truck.
Oh, it now has a 50 amp plasma cutter. Pilot arc too. Running it off the 208 volt single phase, the Lima MAC can take that abuse.
 

chevymike

Well-known member
597
463
63
Location
San Diego, CA
And this did what? Asking because I don't know what this would improve.
Mine had slot head screws. When I was replacing the solenoid, I managed to drop one and after 45 minutes of looking, I gave up. Since the slot heads were not a standard type screw (they were thicker), I decided to replace them with cap head screws. Nice thing about this is I could sneak a tee handled allen wrench past the fast idle/throttle bracket to tighten it up.
 

LT67

Well-known member
655
501
93
Location
Bowdon, GA
Figgered I'd finally test the two Warn winches that came with the 85 M1008. The XD9000 that's mounted inside the rear bumper on the 85 M1008 needs the motor rebuilt. The 8274 that I want to use on the 86 M1008 worked just fine... and it's a unit from 1980!!

Hopefully I'll have working winches on both M1008 trucks real soon.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
Figgered I'd finally test the two Warn winches that came with the 85 M1008. The XD9000 that's mounted inside the rear bumper on the 85 M1008 needs the motor rebuilt. The 8274 that I want to use on the 86 M1008 worked just fine... and it's a unit from 1980!!

Hopefully I'll have working winches on both M1008 trucks real soon.
The 8274 is a thirsty winch but a very dependable winch. I prefer them.
 

Mainsail

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,501
1,682
113
Location
Puget Sound, WA
Basically take the torx screws to the hardware store and get replacement hex head bolts/the same size and length. 5/16-8mm headed bolt work best. a dab of never seize and your all set. When your ready to get that pump rebuilt just keep in mind that it will make great improvements and is very easy to do. No Fear. Happy Holidays.
Always appreciate your help!

That's what I'll be doing, and anti-seize gets slathered liberally over pretty much any fastener I manage to get out in one piece.

If you're ever in WA please let me know, I'd love for you to drive this truck and give me an estimate of how well it is or isn't running, and take you to lunch. Right now it's running fantastic, I think the IP is still really good.

And yes, much fear about the IP. Can't say why, but that contraption is a mystery to me. ;)
 

Sharecropper

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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987
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Location
Paris KY
Always appreciate your help!

That's what I'll be doing, and anti-seize gets slathered liberally over pretty much any fastener I manage to get out in one piece.

If you're ever in WA please let me know, I'd love for you to drive this truck and give me an estimate of how well it is or isn't running, and take you to lunch. Right now it's running fantastic, I think the IP is still really good.

And yes, much fear about the IP. Can't say why, but that contraption is a mystery to me. ;)
What? Rick going to Washington State? Yeah right! LOL

201215 Jack Nicholson.jpg
 

Mad Texan

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
657
1,150
93
Location
Chester County, PA
Brushed off the snow and started it.
First time it’s ran in a week or so.
Fired right up.

This is a lot of snow for Oklahoma.
I know, it’s a dusting for you guys up north.
Snow is less common for sure... ice is more the norm. I remember a long drive one night up I35 from from Dallas to Norman in my Firebird Formula to get to school. :driver:
 

Tinstar

Super Moderator
Super Moderator
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113
Location
Edmond, Oklahoma
Snow is less common for sure... ice is more the norm. I remember a long drive one night up I35 from from Dallas to Norman in my Firebird Formula to get to school. :driver:
Your correct.
We just had a massive ice storm in October that had us on generator for almost 6 days.
Didn’t drive the CUCV then either.
 

LT67

Well-known member
655
501
93
Location
Bowdon, GA
What did I do to my cucv today?? On my way back home from breakfast in the 86 m1008 going about 50mph and all of the sudden I hear a rattling noise from the engine. And it lost some power. It does not sound like a rod or crank bearing. Sounds like something in the valvetrain let go. At idle I can't hear it, but rev up the motor and I can hear it..
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,437
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I think you have a stuck delivery nozzle. It may also be a glow plug that snapped off. I had one digested thru the engine at about 60 mph and it took 30 seconds to go away. I didn't know what happened until the next day when the truck did not start after the glow plug light went on. I pulled all 8 glow plugs and found just the base of the one. Tip completely gone. As for the loud tapping from the delivery nozzle. On a full tank of fuel I have in the past added a quart of ATF. Or diesel conditioner. Worked for me. No 2 cycle oil it ain't a chainsaw or weed whacker. Happy Holidays.
 

83k30

Member
63
38
18
Location
Jax, Fl
Well it's been an interesting few weeks. Loud pop/bang while driving the ol cucv down hill which turned out to be the front leaf spring breaking. First time I've ever had a truck break a leaf spring, and these specific springs were purchased just last year so they certainly weren't old. Sourced a replacement set from a junk yard, got them bolted up after torching the old bushings.

Next day, the wife says the headlights would not turn on. However when I checked they worked fine. Yesterday though, I pulled the switch and the lights didn't come on. Checked the fuses without a culprit. While looking under the hood the lights suddenly started working. The next time I tried switching them on it was dark. Truck cranked, I put my foot on the brake and saw my lights turn on. Put it in drive and pulled the headlight switch which immediately killed my brake lights. So I drove home minus any working factory lights. Began troubleshooting the problem today and am currently stumped but not defeated. Battery voltage checks good up to and through the BO switch to the headlight switch, but when turning the headlight switch on, the 12v input immediately dies both up and down stream of them are switch. Will continue tomorrow with some updates.
 

Attachments

LT67

Well-known member
655
501
93
Location
Bowdon, GA
I think you have a stuck delivery nozzle. It may also be a glow plug that snapped off. I had one digested thru the engine at about 60 mph and it took 30 seconds to go away. I didn't know what happened until the next day when the truck did not start after the glow plug light went on. I pulled all 8 glow plugs and found just the base of the one. Tip completely gone. As for the loud tapping from the delivery nozzle. On a full tank of fuel I have in the past added a quart of ATF. Or diesel conditioner. Worked for me. No 2 cycle oil it ain't a chainsaw or weed whacker. Happy Holidays.
Thx... I'll check that out
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
11,474
10,437
113
Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
Well it's been an interesting few weeks. Loud pop/bang while driving the ol cucv down hill which turned out to be the front leaf spring breaking. First time I've ever had a truck break a leaf spring, and these specific springs were purchased just last year so they certainly weren't old. Sourced a replacement set from a junk yard, got them bolted up after torching the old bushings.

Next day, the wife says the headlights would not turn on. However when I checked they worked fine. Yesterday though, I pulled the switch and the lights didn't come on. Checked the fuses without a culprit. While looking under the hood the lights suddenly started working. The next time I tried switching them on it was dark. Truck cranked, I put my foot on the brake and saw my lights turn on. Put it in drive and pulled the headlight switch which immediately killed my brake lights. So I drove home minus any working factory lights. Began troubleshooting the problem today and am currently stumped but not defeated. Battery voltage checks good up to and through the BO switch to the headlight switch, but when turning the headlight switch on, the 12v input immediately dies both up and down stream of them are switch. Will continue tomorrow with some updates.
The leaf springs will continue to break without any shock absorbers attached to the suspension. That jolt is going into the springs full force. And if they are lift kit springs they are more than likely made in India or China. And I have had experience with lift kit springs. Mostly removing them for car dealers and finding several ply's broken. Check the 30 amp fuse mid way up in the fuse box on the right side. Common issue in the CUCV's that contact gets loose and hot and the fuse holder contacts get weak and make heat causing corrosion and melting the fuse. Easiest fix is remove the bulkhead connector and the fuse box and put an inline fuse in place. I do believe the brake lights are served by that same leg in the fuse box. Check that out and report back. Thank you and have a Happy Holiday.
 

LT67

Well-known member
655
501
93
Location
Bowdon, GA
I think you have a stuck delivery nozzle. It may also be a glow plug that snapped off. I had one digested thru the engine at about 60 mph and it took 30 seconds to go away. I didn't know what happened until the next day when the truck did not start after the glow plug light went on. I pulled all 8 glow plugs and found just the base of the one. Tip completely gone. As for the loud tapping from the delivery nozzle. On a full tank of fuel I have in the past added a quart of ATF. Or diesel conditioner. Worked for me. No 2 cycle oil it ain't a chainsaw or weed whacker. Happy Holidays.
Dumped 2 shots of HotShots fuel cleaner in it this AM and fired it up. No issues starting and no cylinders were missing. Let it run through the cold idle circiut, revved up the engine and no rattling noise. Drove it 25 miles this morning and still no rattling.. 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

I did notice that the brand new water pump was leaking. Grrr.....
 

royalflush55

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
653
533
93
Location
Reydon, OK
Dumped 2 shots of HotShots fuel cleaner in it this AM and fired it up. No issues starting and no cylinders were missing. Let it run through the cold idle circiut, revved up the engine and no rattling noise. Drove it 25 miles this morning and still no rattling.. 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️

I did notice that the brand new water pump was leaking. Grrr.....
I add Power Service diesel additive every time I fill up year around. I use winter formula in the cold months to prevent gelling. Good for the injection pump and injectors both. Also runs a little quiter.
 
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