What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

[Recovry4x4]

And the driver's side is a cucv door with the ID plate on it... and who cares if it's from an M1010

The guy who is missing his M1010 door might care. LOL

 

[LT67]

The guy who is missing his M1010 door might care. LOL

Shhhh...

The passenger side door came off of a UGA service truck. Those vinyl emblems had to come off lol

 

[riggermedic]

The motor on my M 10 10 Suddenly Felt Way out of balance, shaking and rattling. Purchased a new harmonic balancer. I didn’t need a puller and the bolt came out without a wrench just my fingers and about seven rotations. Any suggestions as to what I should do with this mess? I think I can clean out the slot slap a Woodruff key in there and perhaps try to weld it in place? Filling in the hole

 

[Mullaney]

The motor on my M 10 10 Suddenly Felt Way out of balance, shaking and rattling. Purchased a new harmonic balancer. I didn’t need a puller and the bolt came out without a wrench just my fingers and about seven rotations. Any suggestions as to what I should do with this mess? I think I can clean out the slot slap a Woodruff key in there and perhaps try to weld it in place? Filling in the hole

.
If there is any way possible - you don't really want to weld the balancer to the crankshaft.
I suggest scrapping the balancer you have now. Get another. Several folks have replaced one recently.
Get a tap and follow the threads in the crank. Get rid of the slivers of metal and hopefully find that you have good threads.

You need to buy:
A new timing cover seal. (Yours should be leaking badly now)
A new Harmonic Balancer (I missed that you had already bought the new balancer)
A new Harmonic Balancer Bolt
A bottle of LocTite for the bolt.

There was much discussion about the most recent balancer replacement. Might be worth reading up.

Could have been that the person before you (PO) replaced the bolt in the balancer for one reason or another. Maybe it didn't get torqued to proper specs so again read up a little on that here in the forums. Test fit your bolt before trying to refit the bolt in the crank. ALSO need to get the washer that belongs on the front of the balancer / crank. It has a slight "crown" in it, so turn it the right way.

 

[riggermedic]

.
If there is any way possible - you don't really want to weld the balancer to the crankshaft.
I suggest scrapping the balancer you have now. Get another. Several folks have replaced one recently.
Get a tap and follow the threads in the crank. Get rid of the slivers of metal and hopefully find that you have good threads.

You need to buy:
A new timing cover seal. (Yours should be leaking badly now)
A new Harmonic Balancer (I missed that you had already bought the new balancer)
A new Harmonic Balancer Bolt
A bottle of LocTite for the bolt.

There was much discussion about the most recent balancer replacement. Might be worth reading up.

Could have been that the person before you (PO) replaced the bolt in the balancer for one reason or another. Maybe it didn't get torqued to proper specs so again read up a little on that here in the forums. Test fit your bolt before trying to refit the bolt in the crank. ALSO need to get the washer that belongs on the front of the balancer / crank. It has a slight "crown" in it, so turn it the right way.

I have a new balancer with a new bolt and thrust washer and Woodruff key. The threads are good on the crankshaft, the problem is the big chunk missing from the crankshaft where the former woodruff key Shird. The new key will fit in the slot but what do I do with the missing chunk of crankshaft?

 

[Mullaney]

I have a new balancer with a new bolt and thrust washer and Woodruff key. The threads are good on the crankshaft, the problem is the big chunk missing from the crankshaft where the former woodruff key Shird. The new key will fit in the slot but what do I do with the missing chunk of crankshaft?

.
Okay, I'm done. Hate to say it but I flat just don't know any way to fix that in the truck.
I have seen cranks welded and turned but that sounds like you would be doing a complete rebuild.
Maybe somebody knows better

In our profession, we have large round cylinders with steel shafts that run through them. Bad things will happen with machines - and stupid things happen too. I have seen bolts, wrenches, nuts and other pieces of "foreign matter" make it through printing presses. There are people in the business of repairing those cylinders (Edit) in the press.

Maybe there is something similar for motors?

 

[vanaisa]

This slot can be welded full and new, correct slot milled. Unfortunately crank must be removed from engine.

 

[Rutjes]

Yesterday I picked up my new rear leaf springs at the nearby FedEx center. Also got a call from the painter, my parts where done.



A little while ago I ordered 4 fuel filter bases, 2 Carter P4070 lift pumps and a bunch of Baldwin fuel filters. It kind off annoyed me at first that they sent Donaldson filters instead of Baldwin for the post-filters just because of the different colors, but I'm used to the color difference now.

I'm fabricating 2 brackets to mount the lift pump and filters under my trucks. One for my CUCV and one for my K1500. Here's some pictures of the first bracket finished and mounted on the K1500. Due to the frame and crossmembers I had to put the pump first and do a loop to the filters. I would have liked to mount them in the order of Pre-filter -> Pump -> Post-filter. For the CUCV that should not be a problem. A skidplate will be made to protect them.



While I was welding, I also made a rack for the axle stands.

 

[LT67]

I have a new balancer with a new bolt and thrust washer and Woodruff key. The threads are good on the crankshaft, the problem is the big chunk missing from the crankshaft where the former woodruff key Shird. The new key will fit in the slot but what do I do with the missing chunk of crankshaft?

**this why it's paramount to change the balancer on a 6.2 diesel..

That's not going to be a quick easy fix... I'm sure the crank can be fixed, just not while it's in the block.

 

[ezgn]

.
If there is any way possible - you don't really want to weld the balancer to the crankshaft.
I suggest scrapping the balancer you have now. Get another. Several folks have replaced one recently.
Get a tap and follow the threads in the crank. Get rid of the slivers of metal and hopefully find that you have good threads.

You need to buy:
A new timing cover seal. (Yours should be leaking badly now)
A new Harmonic Balancer (I missed that you had already bought the new balancer)
A new Harmonic Balancer Bolt
A bottle of LocTite for the bolt.

There was much discussion about the most recent balancer replacement. Might be worth reading up.

Could have been that the person before you (PO) replaced the bolt in the balancer for one reason or another. Maybe it didn't get torqued to proper specs so again read up a little on that here in the forums. Test fit your bolt before trying to refit the bolt in the crank. ALSO need to get the washer that belongs on the front of the balancer / crank. It has a slight "crown" in it, so turn it the right way.

What is the purpose of the crown and which way does it go in?

 

[Mullaney]

What is the purpose of the crown and which way does it go in?

.
Crown out and away from the motor.
It flattens when the torque is applied.

I can't swear to it, but I assume it is "the last chance" to help hold the bolt if is works loose.

 

[LT67]

The mech went to put new shocks on the rear and noticed a leaking axle seal. The seal on that axle was replaced 2yrs ago.... and it's already leaking

 

[maddawg308]

I moved my '84 M1009 home today, drove onto the rollback, and drove off. Strong engine and no rust! Dash has no cracks and the only problems are the rear window is non-functional, a few small mechanical issues I can easily tackle, and perhaps a new set of shoes since the tires are decades old and are showing cracks. Otherwise, proud to say I got this from scrounger before he passed away last month. I'm going to do some sort of tribute to him on the rig, not sure what yet, but I just want to remember him every time I start it up.

Will be hopefully ready for interstate travel, and a new paint job, before the Hagerstown show next month.

 

[Mainsail]

Tackled the heater core today.

The new one was not as thick as the old one, but was making appreciable heat once the truck warmed up.

I was surprised there's so many gaps in the duct work, it sort of guides the air to where you want it, but certainly not compulsory.

Here's the old one.

 

[ezgn]

Tackled the heater core today.

The new one was not as thick as the old one, but was making appreciable heat once the truck warmed up.

I was surprised there's so many gaps in the duct work, it sort of guides the air to where you want it, but certainly not compulsory.

Here's the old one.

View attachment 844743

Good to get that heater working with the cold weather coming up. Puget Sound is a beautiful place. I spent time up there at Fort Lewis. Would dig a fox hole out in the field so deep you could barely climb out just to stay warm, so I know it gets plenty cold at times in the winter. Good job!

 

[Mullaney]

I moved my '84 M1009 home today, drove onto the rollback, and drove off. Strong engine and no rust! Dash has no cracks and the only problems are the rear window is non-functional, a few small mechanical issues I can easily tackle, and perhaps a new set of shoes since the tires are decades old and are showing cracks. Otherwise, proud to say I got this from scrounger before he passed away last month. I'm going to do some sort of tribute to him on the rig, not sure what yet, but I just want to remember him every time I start it up.

Will be hopefully ready for interstate travel, and a new paint job, before the Hagerstown show next month.

.
That is a heck of a truck maddawg308 !

I never had the opportunity to meet Scrounger but everyone speaks (spoke?) highly of him.

 

[LT67]

When the Kubota ain't got enough weight to pull trees out of the ground, bring in the M1008...

 

[Tinstar]

Replaced front wheel bearings today.
Left front back bearing possibly had some water inside at some point but looks more like condensation buildup to me. Not sure.
Was definitely making noise going down the road

Rest of them looked good

Now my oil cooler lines are leaking.
On to that project.

 

[cucvrus]

When the Kubota ain't got enough weight to pull trees out of the ground, bring in the M1008...

Never work any old transmission in reverse. It has no clutches just a brake band and they do not like to be worked. I had many plow trucks that went forward and shifted perfect but the reverse band was worn out from back dragging. Not my truck and you can do as you wish. But I just wanted top point that out. Use forward Drive position when ever possible. I have pulled trees in drive. Works the same. Good Luck. The last TH400 I had rebuilt with bad clutches and reverse band cost $1900. in and out of the truck. That was rebuilt completely not just throwing a few parts in a case. Old transmissions can get grumpy very quickly when put to hard work.

 

[LT67]

Just got the 86 M1008 box home. New steering box, shocks, front shackle bushings and an axle seal. It rides like a new truck...