Third From Texas
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What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today
- Thread starter Coffey1
- Start date
OK do you see them very often in your travels? I wonder what kind of money they fetch ? You could make that trailer do 20 different things container /flat/ car hauler just change beds on it !
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you might ask how he got it off the frame its stupid pain in the ace
Thanks the 12 in ga were never used but didnt have that box on the frame like they were getting a connex box
I'll bite: how the heck did you get that done? I found the access to the back side is..... problematic.
I'm been looking to remove them from mine for sometime. I have watched a couple Youtube videos where they had a very hard time getting them off. One even used a handheld band saw to cut them off.
How hard was it to access and get the bolts/nuts off?
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Honestly in my opinion it wasn’t to bad just a little time consuming. The three bolt heads on each hydraulic cylinder are 24 mm but a 15/16 shallow socket will work if you don’t have a 24. I tried at first to use a large snap on 1/2 in power bar but I couldn’t budge them. Plus I felt that I was going to remove my face if and when the socket slipped. So I highly suggest the use of a 1/2 drive impact. A 3/8 drive might work but I don’t own one. The impact removed the bolts so easily I had to question my manly hood afterwards lol.
On the passenger side I just clipped a few of the zip ties that bundled the electrical and air lines together and removed the one p clamp closest to the bolt heads and that gave me enough wiggle room to get the socket on the bolt heads. I just used the impact and socket nothin else. That’s the easy side.
The drivers side was a little more time consuming First off I did the same thing by removing the zip ties and the p clamp. There’s only one bolt that comes out easily with the impact and socket it would be the upper back one. The fwd top one I used a swivel on the impact to get out. The fwd motor mount blocks a straight path to the bolt with the impact. And lastly the hardest bolt is the very lower bolt. The motor mount sits two close to the bolt head to get anything other than a wrench on it, and I couldn’t budge it with a wrench. The best way I found to remove it was with the other two bolts removed take a 8 lb sledge and love tap the top of the hydraulic cylinder to the front of the truck. You can only go so far before it hits the motor mount hard ware. Once I hit the hardware I still couldn’t loosen the bolt so I removed the top motor mount bolt and as soon as I did that and tapped the cylinder maybe 1/4 inch the bolt finally broke loose.
Besides that it’s just removing hydraulic lines and going back and ziptieing everything back. the caps are a 1/4 inch jic or #4an. If people want I could possibly do a stand alone separate thread and lay it out a little more clearly.
On the passenger side I just clipped a few of the zip ties that bundled the electrical and air lines together and removed the one p clamp closest to the bolt heads and that gave me enough wiggle room to get the socket on the bolt heads. I just used the impact and socket nothin else. That’s the easy side.
The drivers side was a little more time consuming First off I did the same thing by removing the zip ties and the p clamp. There’s only one bolt that comes out easily with the impact and socket it would be the upper back one. The fwd top one I used a swivel on the impact to get out. The fwd motor mount blocks a straight path to the bolt with the impact. And lastly the hardest bolt is the very lower bolt. The motor mount sits two close to the bolt head to get anything other than a wrench on it, and I couldn’t budge it with a wrench. The best way I found to remove it was with the other two bolts removed take a 8 lb sledge and love tap the top of the hydraulic cylinder to the front of the truck. You can only go so far before it hits the motor mount hard ware. Once I hit the hardware I still couldn’t loosen the bolt so I removed the top motor mount bolt and as soon as I did that and tapped the cylinder maybe 1/4 inch the bolt finally broke loose.
Besides that it’s just removing hydraulic lines and going back and ziptieing everything back. the caps are a 1/4 inch jic or #4an. If people want I could possibly do a stand alone separate thread and lay it out a little more clearly.
Did you have anymore of the MCT trailers?
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No, I wish I did. It was direct from the OEM. Never issued to Uncle Sam too.
ramdough
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Yea 1 of the 9 that bullseye had in ga ? I bid on couple but went higher than i wanted to put in it but after it was over wished i had atleast got 1 of them I noticed today TEXAS surplus has 1 listed at 2500 too far for me but not you to grab it you have to be on their list i feel sure you know about them
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That's them. It was a cluster-f because the OEM didn't issue titles or certificate of manufacturer yet agreed to furnish them to the auction company. 5 months later I got it situated but it shouldn't have been a thing. Anyway, no more in the pipeline surplus wise to the public. Uncle Sam didn't order any more but the OEM is contemplating making them for civilians with a modified chassis.
DeMilitarized
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hmmm seems familiar
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- 892
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fabbed up a base plate/post as well as
welded a HF ATV winch to my HF truck bed crane.. almost had a heart attack at the price of 5/16 steel plate and a 1 foot section of 4"x4" x.25 post ..over $100 !!!!
welded a HF ATV winch to my HF truck bed crane.. almost had a heart attack at the price of 5/16 steel plate and a 1 foot section of 4"x4" x.25 post ..over $100 !!!!
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wire up the winch is next
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- Daytona, FL
works like a champ...under $500 for the entire set up
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Third From Texas
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Came out nice!
I've made three identical to that (two for trucks ands one on my M1082) and all totaled still haven't come close to the coin people ask for the OEM crane.
LOL
Wingnut13
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Fixed my CTIS! The truck I bought had the solenoid control block removed, bought a used unit in fair shape. The solenoids checked out, but in removing the cover I snapped 3 each bolts. Steel bolts in aluminum..... nice. The block is assembled from two chunky non weldable aluminum parts bolted together. So I drilled the stuck screws out to 1/4", countersunk from the bottom and pressed in solid rivets with locktite. Drilled and tapped new screw holes, added the missing pressure sensor ($13) and installed it. Didn't work the first time, but then reversed the main air lines. Works great!
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W13..
When my PPV diaphram took a dump and subsequently killed my CTIS , fan clutch soleniod and fan clutch, I unplugged the CTIS , replaced (fabbed) the torn diaphragm and all was good...but I chose to leave the CTIS unplugged and inflate the GY MVTs to 70 psi...the ride ,albeit slightly harsher but im happy with it. the CTIS is "governed" on HWY mode to @55psi....don't think I can go back to 55psi.... but I plan on installing the higher PSI transducer very soon..
When my PPV diaphram took a dump and subsequently killed my CTIS , fan clutch soleniod and fan clutch, I unplugged the CTIS , replaced (fabbed) the torn diaphragm and all was good...but I chose to leave the CTIS unplugged and inflate the GY MVTs to 70 psi...the ride ,albeit slightly harsher but im happy with it. the CTIS is "governed" on HWY mode to @55psi....don't think I can go back to 55psi.... but I plan on installing the higher PSI transducer very soon..