coachgeo
Well-known member
- 5,147
- 3,463
- 113
- Location
- North of Cincy OH
confused on the usb charge port under the fridge lid...... what situation do you see yourself using that?
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today
- Thread starter Coffey1
- Start date
Third From Texas
Well-known member
- 2,766
- 6,498
- 113
- Location
- Corpus Christi Texas
I go to the beach.
I go to the beach a LOT.
I use my phone at the beach.
My phone needs to be charged.
I drink beer.
I keep beer cold in the cooler.
I take the cooler to the beach.
I drink beer at the beach.
I charge my phone in my beer cooler.
*that section of the box is external to the cold area, and it's handy to keep my phone (and sometimes sidearm) out of sight but close enough to stream music to my speakers, etc
*I even thought about installing streaming speakers into the cooler itself but it eats enough battery as is
Last edited:
coachgeo
Well-known member
- 5,147
- 3,463
- 113
- Location
- North of Cincy OH
ahhhhh..... it is a portable cooler! Didn't know that.
Was thinking it was your interior camper fridge or maybe an exterior fridge installed inside a side box on your truck. Makes ton more since now.
Very nice!
Changed oil in the two rear differentials. Replaced the broken idiot string on the NATO slave cable connector; I used camo 550 cord. Let me tell you - those little eyelet cord anchors are tough as hardened nails to spread open to remove the old cord and put the new one in. Bought a new exhaust clamp but it was too small. Repaired the old on and will order the correct one. Repaired that little snap lock in the battery box cover hold down latch. Someone must have punched that lever to try to get it to lock and consequently ended up bending that snap lock over to where it was not functional.
What a good job RAINMAN !
Sometimes when he gets put in timeout they let him slide the cooler over in the corner with him so he can charge up his wireless speakers till hes ready to play nice with the other kids
Third From Texas
Well-known member
- 2,766
- 6,498
- 113
- Location
- Corpus Christi Texas
Yeah, they are blood refrigerators from medical units. Can also set to freezer mode.
I added hinges, gas struts, and a couple rubber latches to the removable lid. Then put in a plexiglass floor with vents (it had no bottom inside as the bags sit in racks). Added the light and USB port. It's really big (40"x24"x24"). Great coolers if you can snag a new one. But not exactly "portable" in the civilian sense (weighs about 200lbs loaded with beer). I crane it into and out of the trailer.
It can run on internal batteries, 12v or 24v cable, 120v, or solar (has a built-in controller).
AcuTemp Refrigerator
I recently bought an "AcuTemp AX56L" HemaCool mobile blood storage and cooling refrigerator from fellow steel soldiers member "firefinder" . It is awesome ! It weighs in at 148 Ibs so it's no light weight, this is a serious piece of equipment. It can operate on 120V A/C, 24V DC, 12V DC and...
www.steelsoldiers.com
DeMilitarized
Well-known member
- 372
- 978
- 93
- Location
- Gainesville, GA
Got some paint on the old girl and she is looking mean.
Attachments
- 7,716
- 19,766
- 113
- Location
- Charlotte NC
DeMilitarized
Well-known member
- 372
- 978
- 93
- Location
- Gainesville, GA
And they say a rattle can paint job won’t look good.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Removed some of the PLGR kit. Installed the back-up alarm kit. Painted & mounted the Options Panel. Checked the hub oil condition & levels. Ordered a U-joint because the intermediate shaft has a broken grease zerk & I could not get it extracted. Installed two 8” convex mirrors - one in each side. Will remove the radio platform & cables and prep to install the 3rd seat.
Received the Chelsea PTO wiring kit. Their PTO switch does not match up size wise with the option panel blank slots. I eye-balled the switch and the blank slot cover and it looked like it would work - so I took a blank slot cover and trimmed the ID to slid over the switch. TA-da.
Attachments
Jacked up both rear axles & removed the rear driveshaft. Those caps played stubborn but finally came out.
I’ve smelt burnt trans fluid, burnt differential gear oil, and burnt wheel bearing grease but today is the first time in more than 61 years on this planet that I ever smelt burnt u-joint grease!
Could not detect any play / slop in the u-joints but I’m replacing when I get the shaft balanced.
Here’s some pictures of the u-joints. Take note of the “sideways 4” (or sort of a ‘Z’ depending on your perspective) on the one. Notice the shiny & dull areas. believe the shiny spots indicate areas that see the most wear (thrust and constant pressure from moving). Most of the rotational wear is obviously from forward motion.
Also, I was surprised to see plastic washers in the bottom of each cap - with machined channels for lube to ooze out to the end of the joint in the cap.
I don’t consider these u-joints bad or ‘shot’. But the burnt smell has me scratching my head a little.
I’ve got more of a ‘limp’ instead of a vibration or cyclic thump like you might get as you drive across concrete expansion joints along a Highway. I inspected more items a bit more thoroughly before I tackled the driveshaft removal. I did not notice anything out of the ordinary. Not sure how to check the pair of upper wishbone control arms in the rear. Nothing is loose and nothing is oozing grease. Torque rods also look good.
I’ve got different tires & rims and getting those married up & on the truck is quickly moving up the to-do list!
I’ve smelt burnt trans fluid, burnt differential gear oil, and burnt wheel bearing grease but today is the first time in more than 61 years on this planet that I ever smelt burnt u-joint grease!
Could not detect any play / slop in the u-joints but I’m replacing when I get the shaft balanced.
Here’s some pictures of the u-joints. Take note of the “sideways 4” (or sort of a ‘Z’ depending on your perspective) on the one. Notice the shiny & dull areas. believe the shiny spots indicate areas that see the most wear (thrust and constant pressure from moving). Most of the rotational wear is obviously from forward motion.
Also, I was surprised to see plastic washers in the bottom of each cap - with machined channels for lube to ooze out to the end of the joint in the cap.
I don’t consider these u-joints bad or ‘shot’. But the burnt smell has me scratching my head a little.
I’ve got more of a ‘limp’ instead of a vibration or cyclic thump like you might get as you drive across concrete expansion joints along a Highway. I inspected more items a bit more thoroughly before I tackled the driveshaft removal. I did not notice anything out of the ordinary. Not sure how to check the pair of upper wishbone control arms in the rear. Nothing is loose and nothing is oozing grease. Torque rods also look good.
I’ve got different tires & rims and getting those married up & on the truck is quickly moving up the to-do list!
Attachments
Wingnut13
Well-known member
- 235
- 562
- 93
- Location
- Strafford, NH
Excellent information, thanks for posting it up. Looks like a bit of brinelling on one of the cross pins that will for sure make some noise and cause issue. Anyways that’s what it looks like in picture #2. Can you confirm?
Except for the 1st photo, my fingernail didn’t catch on to anything. I’ll check again in the AM but Photo 2 was more of a shiny versus dull appearance. I didn’t see any burnishing despite that grease smelling toasted.
Third From Texas
Well-known member
- 2,766
- 6,498
- 113
- Location
- Corpus Christi Texas
If I had piles of money....- YouTube
Enjoy the videos and music you love, upload original content, and share it all with friends, family, and the world on YouTube.youtube.com
Attachments
- 4,300
- 3,132
- 113
- Location
- Fort Worth, Texas
I did the thing! I had a M1078 w/w and the engine was dead. No bang-boom even with ample starting fluid so I dropped in a MTV 290hp engine and put it on 16.00s. It really moves. The boost will put you in your seat. 
