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What have you done to your FMTV or LMTV today

aw113sgte

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Tried the first tire change, new valve stems and orings. Unfortunately after a few minutes test at 100psi, it started leaking. The seal (NOS) migrated and a gap formed. The seal was compressed appropriately (unlike the ones I'm taking off that have all been crushed to oblivion). But the replacement valve stems from Midwest has a different angle and it was enough to cause an issue. See the pictures with the new valve stems, then compared to the stock one. Really getting tired of these half assed engineered solutions that are out there.


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aw113sgte

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Those look the same as what I used. NOS military versions. :unsure:
They are not. The angle of the hose is slightly different, the internal threads valve threads start at the end versus being inset, the external thread doesn't have the "cross" on the end, they have a slightly different black seal (I put NOS orange on). Smaller diameter protective hose.
They would work fine however if I were to bend the hoses.

Very unimpressed by the valve stem configuration though. They should be a face seal oring (similar to the wheel). Would be far more reliable and couldn't be overtightened like every single one I've taken off has been (seals all crushed).
 

GeneralDisorder

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Portland, OR

aw113sgte

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Neat, didn't know that. I was unable to find a spec for how far to run the nut on. Right now I have the nut just past the end of the valve stem (maybe .05" of the valve stem protrudes).
 

MatthewWBailey

Thanks for this site. My truck runs great now!
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Really getting tired of these half assed engineered solutions that are out there
The custom made products or 'solutions' I've gotten from merry men equipment have been cheap and hillbilly at best. His web site is good for a quick part # lookup, otherwise, I avoid them like the plague.
 

hike

—realizing each day
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Location
Texas Hill Country
Huh. Yeah they do appear to be different. The cross is there in case the bead lock shifts - so it can't block airflow.

These are the correct valve stems according to the TM - Haltec AMG4:



I hope to be as good as you one day at finding the real parts. Do you offer a class Rick?
 

GeneralDisorder

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Portland, OR
I hope to be as good as you one day at finding the real parts. Do you offer a class Rick?
I think it's a confluence of lifelong obsessions and experiences in industry and military. Have you sent me a thumb drive for TM's and tech info? Most of this type of information is buried in the GB's of data I've amassed and the "skill" is being able to search all that data and knowing what every part of a truck does and could be named..... Being able to see every company that has ever made every part in the Army system going back to the 1960's is super useful for situations such as this. It's like having the Yellow Pages for army truck parts. The scalpers rely very heavily on obfuscation - hiding the truth that many of these parts are simply off the shelf in an effort to either mark them up from their normal retail by 100-200% (or more) or sell an Asian or Indonesian copy of the real part at 500% profit. The surplus "industry" is just filled with people taking advantage of desperate enthusiasts that haven't spent a lifetime in the shop and have the grey beard with permanent grease stains and the brow creases to spot them driving their snake oil cart into town.
 

hike

—realizing each day
Steel Soldiers Supporter
531
838
93
Location
Texas Hill Country
I think it's a confluence of lifelong obsessions and experiences in industry and military. Have you sent me a thumb drive for TM's and tech info? Most of this type of information is buried in the GB's of data I've amassed and the "skill" is being able to search all that data and knowing what every part of a truck does and could be named..... Being able to see every company that has ever made every part in the Army system going back to the 1960's is super useful for situations such as this. It's like having the Yellow Pages for army truck parts. The scalpers rely very heavily on obfuscation - hiding the truth that many of these parts are simply off the shelf in an effort to either mark them up from their normal retail by 100-200% (or more) or sell an Asian or Indonesian copy of the real part at 500% profit. The surplus "industry" is just filled with people taking advantage of desperate enthusiasts that haven't spent a lifetime in the shop and have the grey beard with permanent grease stains and the brow creases to spot them driving their snake oil cart into town.
We have the laptop you made us and know I have barely scratched the surface on what you installed for us—
 

hike

—realizing each day
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Texas Hill Country
Repainted the dash as part of stripping the cab to insulate, build out consoles, storage, carpet and paint the interior.

While putting the dash back together tested if we could move the lights to the outside and transmission to the inside, though the light switch wiring is too short. Still reorganized the switches and gauges to suit my wishes for easy access to certain items by touch and eye.

Still deciding if I like it or not.

latest, second revision:
IMG_4427.jpeg


first revision:
IMG_4306.jpeg

Looking at the lights in the switches, many not working and melted the plastic. It would be nice to have them all work—
 

GeneralDisorder

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Portland, OR

Lostchain

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The stock horn on my LMTV was lame.

@GeneralDisorder turned me on to an LMTV A1P2 air horn.

All I had to do to mount this was cut a small peice of angle iron to attach it to the stock horn mount. It reuses the stock horn wiring and has the correct connectors already. I made a T fitting to tap into the 1/2” CTIS supply line for air.

This thing is quite loud!


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Third From Texas

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Corpus Christi Texas
Nice

Way more fun than the OEM horn.

But I want to hook the OEM back up to another switch.
The looks on people faces when they motion you to honk and you go "beep-beep" is hysterical.
Then I can lay on the air to watch them jump...


I've installed Vikings on my two trucks.
I was able to use the existing mount to slap these in facing forward.



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