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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Mogman

Mogman

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DREDnot said:
Got any more pics of the install?
Click to expand...
Not at this point, pretty straight forward, remove speedo and cable install tach and cable, remove RPM sending unit and connect other end of tach cable and voila!! I did trim the insulation on the dog house to give the cable a better angle of departure, only about 1/2" wide just enough for the cable to lay in and tie wrapped (or ZIPPY TIES as the wife refers to them) the cable to the throttle cable to keep it in place and of course transferred the grommet for the firewall to the new cable.
There are several types of mechanical tachometers this application calls for a 1:2 (I have seen these referred to as 2:1 also) or "tachometer reads twice cable speed" because of course it is driven by the cam which is running at half the crank speed.
This is a Harsco unit I got off of fleabay, I really like the resolution because of its 350 deg. sweep and it is only a 4K RPM which should be perfect.
I was a little concerned because it was red lined at 2400 RPM (just did not look right) but the red line was on the outside of the glass (Yes I see now I did not get it all off)
OH yes, I did have to trim the mounting bracket because the dash is double walled... Also I am not positive but suspect the 4L80E versions use the speed sensor for the transmission so this may not work on that application.
Looks like the M35 tach would have been a better choice, will have to wonder out in the pasture and see if any of my scrap trucks have tachs.
 
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TOBASH

TOBASH

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h
Ajax MD said:
Searching on NAPA's website fails. The website ends up listing every single CV axle that they sell.
I called my local NAPA and asked them to try to cross-reference the Autozone part number and AM General's obsolete part numbers and they were unable to find a match.

I think the only way NAPA will be able to help, is if I provide:
-Number of splines on 10k axle
-Fully extended length
-Fully collapsed length
- Shaft diameter at each end
-Tell them that it's the 6 bolt end
Click to expand...

I know you replaced your boots BUT AUTOZONE has entire 10K H1 Hummer axles for $100.oo. Part numbers, IIRC are N16058, N16059, N16060 I forget which is rear axle and which are front axle numbers. You need one of each front and 2 of the same rear axles. Rear axles are symmetric, front are asymmetric.

I learned all this from a thread here on SteelSoldiers many months ago, but I forgot who the OP was.

Best,

T
 
TOBASH

TOBASH

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Carrera911 said:
My truck came from the military with red top Optimas in the adapter trays. They're from 2011 and have finally gotten where they don't hold a charge more than a week. Optima is owned by Johnson Controls and they moved production to Mexico some time ago and from reading reviews, the quality isn't what it used to be. It seems a lot of them are dying in just a couple years. The other big battery manufacturer in the US is East Penn whose US made Deka AGM batteries are known to be very good and I've run them in the past. They manufacture batteries for parts stores under various names, but you'll see these gray case batteries at Autozone etc for around 200. Sams club sells theirs under the Duracell brand. They have a 34/78 with crappy SAE terminals for 140 and the marine 34 for 120. Same battery, cheaper and the second top terminals are nice for accessories. The warranty is only 18 months but at half the cost for an as good, or better, battery is fine with me.

It wouldn't have been much work to trim the Optima trays to make them work, but I decided to make some quick brackets to hold them in place. Just 3/4" tube for a spacer and 1 inch angle iron.
View attachment 790784View attachment 790780View attachment 790781

Added some Hydroturf to the bottom of the bracket to give it some padding and better grip.

View attachment 790782View attachment 790783
Click to expand...
There are multiple battery threads talking about decent batteries for under $100 a pair that will fit the battery tray and battery retainer. Those are wet batteries that can leak in a roll-over but they are cost effective.

I won't buy Optima since they abandoned the USA. (Screw them for screwing over USA workers). I will buy Odyssey batteries BUT they are pricey. They are solid state though, so in a roll-over they won't leak into the passenger compartment.

Best,

T
 
Ajax MD

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TOBASH said:
h


I know you replaced your boots BUT AUTOZONE has entire 10K H1 Hummer axles for $100.oo. Part numbers, IIRC are N16058, N16059, N16060 I forget which is rear axle and which are front axle numbers. You need one of each front and 2 of the same rear axles. Rear axles are symmetric, front are asymmetric.

I learned all this from a thread here on SteelSoldiers many months ago, but I forgot who the OP was.

Best,

T
Click to expand...
I checked with my Autozone. The nearest axle was 2 states (and 2-3 days) away and I just wanted to get the truck back together.
I plan on buying the axles in pairs and just swapping them in all at once.
 
C

Carrera911

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TOBASH said:
There are multiple battery threads talking about decent batteries for under $100 a pair that will fit the battery tray and battery retainer. Those are wet batteries that can leak in a roll-over but they are cost effective.

I won't buy Optima since they abandoned the USA. (Screw them for screwing over USA workers). I will buy Odyssey batteries BUT they are pricey. They are solid state though, so in a roll-over they won't leak into the passenger compartment.

Best,

T
Click to expand...
These are sealed agm without breather holes. I don’t see any reason why they’re more leak prone than optimas or any other agm. That’s why I was stoked to find them for half the price of the optimas. I had a wet battery in another vehicle leak acid from the breather and it stripped the paint to bare metal everywhere it touched. That was part of the reason why I wanted to stick with agm.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Milcommoguy

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Can't even buy a Jolly Rogers watermelon candy twist for 2 cents these days...

As for batteries, I go with (and no endorsement) Walley World or the Costco $89.99 each and keep the receipt. Getting 6 years of use. Not going to even think about 300 dollar batteries. Agency had 1000's of vehicles and fleet mechanics thought the fancy, pricey colored top batteries were going to be the bomb. Two year or so later, alternator charge issue, start issue to dead batteries. They were not living up to the sales pitch / cost advantage. Saw a pallet a week going to the recycle bin till they were all cleared out.

Looking at service time to cost $89.99 is in the ballpark for this hobbyist... And if any trouble ? slide right in to Wally World just about anywhere.

I don't plan on flipping the old HUMV, so sealed tops hasn't been a real concern. 800 cranking Amps should start any HUMV or it's time to fix it.

Now if for some unknown reason ?? one or both have been discharged to dead, count your "lucky charms" as it will never be right, IME (In My Expearance)

So that's the sweet deal here. If I had a 65 cents, it would be a Payday bar, CAMO

This life story provided FREE.
 
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Mogman

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Went for a 60 mile jog this morning to check out the aviation (TELEX TC-200) intercom system (and get lunch) with interfaces with the two way (ICOM IC-706MKIIG) and entertainment system (ANDROID phone) I am using David Clark 10-20 headsets (with jell ear pads VERY comfortable) and I can tell you if it is legal in your state I would HIGHLY recommend it, the 24dB noise reduction makes all the difference in the world, of course you have to be EXTRA vigilant going through intersections etc. This is going to be a big help as my wife and I are in our mid 60s and would be yelling at each other the entire time we were driving,,, for some reason that huge blind spot from the left A pillar and mirror seems to be more bothersome?
ALSO for those interested the 1992 M998 (lower ratio gear set, numerically) with 3 speed AND the TreadWright tires yields 2900RPM@60MPH and 3200RPM@65MPH being a mechanical tach and GPS speedo those should be some fairly accurate numbers, the tires should be about the same as stock but I have not measured rolling dia. yet.
 
Mogman

Mogman

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Milcommoguy said:
Can't even buy a Jolly Rogers watermelon candy twist for 2 cents these days...

As for batteries, I go with (and no endorsement) Walley World or the Costco $89.99 each and keep the receipt. Getting 6 years of use. Not going to even think about 300 dollar batteries. Agency had 1000's of vehicles and fleet mechanics thought the fancy, pricey colored top batteries were going to be the bomb. Two year or so later, alternator charge issue, start issue to dead batteries. They were not living up to the sales pitch / cost advantage. Saw a pallet a week going to the recycle bin till they were all cleared out.

Looking at service time to cost $89.99 is in the ballpark for this hobbyist... And if any trouble ? slide right in to Wally World just about anywhere.

I don't plan on flipping the old HUMV, so sealed tops hasn't been a real concern. 800 cranking Amps should start any HUMV or it's time to fix it.

Now if for some unknown reason ?? one or both have been discharged to dead, count your "lucky charms" as it will never be right, IME (In My Expearance)

So that's the sweet deal here. If I had a 65 cents, it would be a Payday bar, CAMO

This life story provided FREE.
Click to expand...
It's not just "flipping" it, regular lead acid batteries tend to expel hydrogen gas, enclosed box, one arcy-sparky, you do the math.
sealed batteries can also expel gas if bad or overcharged as all have a pressure relief valve but not under normal conditions.
Probably a rare occurrence indeed but still...
When I was a teenager I was trying to help a guy by giving him a jump, the jack-wad connected his side backwards after I had already connected my side and MY battery blew up, fortunately for me most of the acid spewed out across my engine bay, no good deed goes unpunished!!
 
kzeyus

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Mogman said:
, for some reason that huge blind spot from the left A pillar and mirror seems to be more bothersome?
Click to expand...
Dropping the drivers side mirror down the ~5" as was done on the A2 version helps quite a bit with that blind spot. You can see over the mirror and makes it lot easier to see pedestrians on the corner.
 
Mogman

Mogman

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kzeyus said:
Dropping the drivers side mirror down the ~5" as was done on the A2 version helps quite a bit with that blind spot. You can see over the mirror and makes it lot easier to see pedestrians on the corner.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I did finally find a picture of what you are talking about but only on an up armored vehicle.
Moving the mirrors to the hard doors would seem the way to go, looking through the windshield at the passenger side mirror is a piss poor way to run a railroad!!
 
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