What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

[HUMMER H1]

AFAIK the cooling loop has nothing to do with using ATF, every chain drive aluminum case I have seen uses ATF, not saying gear oil would be bad.
This ATF crap started with the transmission in the Chevette as a fuel saving measure during the oil crisis, man we got tons of complaints about noisy transmissions.

in the humvee and humme rh1 world there is terminology called the vampire,

when cooling loop brakes inside theT case, it floods with extra ATF that supposed to go through the cooler loop, it makes the oil go up all the way to filer housing through air tubes, the transfer case starts to leak everywhere draining the ATF that belongs to the transmission and contaminating by aluminum shavings, eventually killing the transmission

by bypassing the cooling loop the T case becomes full isolated unit.

that cooler loop is only 242 HD units not on jeeps 242,

If I was living in colder climates I would think ATF is better
and maybe even fuel saving by 5c per tank ? Less friction?
but oil makes it run a lot quieter and I am sure gears love it.

yea you see the Tacoma , tundra , 4 runner all have chain but with gear oil from the factory

honestly I think it’s just a preference and both are ok depending on climate and usage

 

[HUMMER H1]

a lot Of what the military does for fluids is for commonality of fluids, take the PS system, you can flush the ATF out and use PS fluid, ATF does suffer from cavitation in extreme use situations. My FMTV uses 15-W40 for transmission fluid! Yes…the Allison transmission actually uses engine oil, many owners flush it though and go to Transmission fluid.

That’s very interesting Steve
I always thought automatic transmission can’t use any major slippery liquids
Motor oil huh ?
No wonder those Allison transitions are bulletproof units.

 

[HUMMER H1]

The

Thank you @HUMMER H1 for your answer. Seems like there are some pros/cons for using gear oil instead of atf. Since my tc is leaking like hell, i have to remove it and seal it anyway. I will check the chain and think about going the gear oil route.
[/QUOTe

you may hav that vampire issue that I i am talking about
The cooler loop is absolutely fragile bad design, it can crack from many reasons, even by over tightening them, bear the hose connection, vibrations, loose chain, and even its original holding strap coming loose.

they amount of miles I drive, I can’t have the loop.

 

[Milcommoguy]

That’s very interesting Steve
I always thought automatic transmission can’t use any major slippery liquids
Motor oil huh ?
No wonder those Allison transitions are bulletproof units.

in the humvee and humme rh1 world there is terminology called the vampire,

when cooling loop brakes inside theT case, it floods with extra ATF that supposed to go through the cooler loop, it makes the oil go up all the way to filer housing through air tubes, the transfer case starts to leak everywhere draining the ATF that belongs to the transmission and contaminating by aluminum shavings, eventually killing the transmission

by bypassing the cooling loop the T case becomes full isolated unit.

that cooler loop is only 242 HD units not on jeeps 242,

If I was living in colder climates I would think ATF is better
and maybe even fuel saving by 5c per tank ? Less friction?
but oil makes it run a lot quieter and I am sure gears love it.

yea you see the Tacoma , tundra , 4 runner all have chain but with gear oil from the factory

honestly I think it’s just a preference and both are ok depending on climate and usage

For all those reasons, and my own thoughts. My M37 case used gear oil and it's still going 60 years later. My HumV transfer case will be a guinea pig test truck a tax right off. Get some baseline temp measurements and the whine (which has been a noise coming from ?) and then switch to gear oil.

If it leaks or drips... I know it's my truck.

Loving the new smell of gear oil, CAMO

 

[Rob T.]

The

I have already checked my oil levels. Neither the level of the transmission nor the level of the tc are out of spec.
Thanks for the hint.

 

[Autonomy_Lost]

95% of transfer cases are aluminum housing,
As far as chain goes, it’s just a connector between two gears nothing else, in fact if you examine 242, it would have been so much easier, tiny bit costly and probably forever solid unit. If they added the 3rd sprocket to make it a gear drive instead of chain drive.

see attached picture, take the chain out of occasion and imagine another gear in between those two

View attachment 902783

Its my understanding that chains are stronger than gears. When two gears interface, they only make contact with 1-2 teeth at a time. Whereas a chain wraps completely around a gear and utilizes many more teeth.

Edit: google says I'm wrong, but not sure why. Maybe the chain itself is the weakness.

 

[Mogman]

Its my understanding that chains are stronger than gears. When two gears interface, they only make contact with 1-2 teeth at a time. Whereas a chain wraps completely around a gear and utilizes many more teeth.

Edit: google says I'm wrong, but not sure why. Maybe the chain itself is the weakness.

History has shown the gear type transfer cases are much stronger than the chain drive cases, the chain cases are quieter and cheaper to produce.

 

[M1165A1]

I continued the winch install on truck #2.

The winch is a 24 volt 17K Sherpa brand "Steed" model. I opted for wire rope to keep the military look as much as possible even though it's not 100% correct.

The ECV-compatible winch plate is Sherpa specific and is from Military Truck Works in Mundelein, IL.

I had previously sandblasted and painted the winch plate with 2 coats of zinc primer and 2 coats of Rapco matte black. The winch plate is pretty solid and is nearly 1/4" thick.

Of course it goes in fits and starts. Got everything together for a dry fit and discovered that Sherpa supplies the winch with ultra high strength Class 12.9 size M10 bolts (10mm). Unfortunately the winch plate is drilled for a 9/16" bolt with a 0.59" hole (that's 14.9mm).

That means the holes for the bolts are about 50% larger than the supplied hardware. The Sherpa winch will not accept larger bolts, not even 7/16".

I thought about the setup - and got very nervous having the approximately 90 pounds of winch, plate and cable possibly bouncing up and down every time the HMMWV hits a bump. Seems like a bad way to have a lot of shear force hitting the bolts in a transverse axis and would cause a failure.

So I've ordered some spacers from a machine shop that are the thickness of the plate and will take up the slack space around the bolt. I have everything loose for now and will do a final assembly when the spacers arrive.

And very frustratingly one of the original nuts that was welded to the back of the frame extension will no longer accept the bolt from the old front bumper. I will run a tap through it and see if it's a thread issue, otherwise I have to figure a solution as those 4 frame extension bolts are the main support strength for the winch plate.

As an aside, my buddy bailed at the last minute to come over to help install which led me to discover that it is pretty easy to have one person install a winch with the aid of Harbor Freight lift and some ratchet straps.

 

[Coug]

I continued the winch install on truck #2.

The winch is a 24 volt 17K Sherpa brand "Steed" model. I opted for wire rope to keep the military look as much as possible even though it's not 100% correct.

The ECV-compatible winch plate is Sherpa specific and is from Military Truck Works in Mundelein, IL.

I had previously sandblasted and painted the winch plate with 2 coats of zinc primer and 2 coats of Rapco matte black. The winch plate is pretty solid and is nearly 1/4" thick.

Of course it goes in fits and starts. Got everything together for a dry fit and discovered that Sherpa supplies the winch with ultra high strength Class 12.9 size M10 bolts (10mm). Unfortunately the winch plate is drilled for a 9/16" bolt with a 0.59" hole (that's 14.9mm).

That means the holes for the bolts are about 50% larger than the supplied hardware. The Sherpa winch will not accept larger bolts, not even 7/16".

I thought about the setup - and got very nervous having the approximately 90 pounds of winch, plate and cable possibly bouncing up and down every time the HMMWV hits a bump. Seems like a bad way to have a lot of shear force hitting the bolts in a transverse axis and would cause a failure.

So I've ordered some spacers from a machine shop that are the thickness of the plate and will take up the slack space around the bolt. I have everything loose for now and will do a final assembly when the spacers arrive.

And very frustratingly one of the original nuts that was welded to the back of the frame extension will no longer accept the bolt from the old front bumper. I will run a tap through it and see if it's a thread issue, otherwise I have to figure a solution as those 4 frame extension bolts are the main support strength for the winch plate.

As an aside, my buddy bailed at the last minute to come over to help install which led me to discover that it is pretty easy to have one person install a winch with the aid of Harbor Freight lift and some ratchet straps.

View attachment 903091

View attachment 903092

View attachment 903093

View attachment 903094

How do you reach the clutch release lever if you're stuck in mud up to the frame?

 

[rcamacho]

Rear driveshaft joint service. New Spicer 5-1350X non greasable. Better seals and figure I’ll just replace when they wear.

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[SCM35A2]

Subscribed!

 

[M1165A1]

How do you reach the clutch release lever if you're stuck in mud up to the frame?

Remove the radiator and go top down, of course!

Just kidding, I know that will be with great difficulty. I haven't been able to come up with an acceptable alternative to this mounting position. A rear winch would be better in that situation.

 

[Mogman]

How do you reach the clutch release lever if you're stuck in mud up to the frame?

Just power out then in, releasing the clutch is not mandatory.

 

[Coug]

Just power out then in, releasing the clutch is not mandatory.

nah, takes too long and lets out too much of the magic smoke if done for too long.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

nah, takes too long and lets out too much of the magic smoke if done for too long.

yep, didn’t want to say anything because someone gets pissy…electric winches have a duty cycle, paying out 60ft or more of rope would leave you possibly screwed, in more than one way, I’m certain I’m wrong though, but what the heck.

 

[Coug]

yep, didn’t want to say anything because someone gets pissy…electric winches have a duty cycle, paying out 60ft or more of rope would leave you possibly screwed, in more than one way, I’m certain I’m wrong though, but what the heck.

It's more about the internal brake heating up than it is the duty cycle, as with no load it isn't really going to be making a lot of heat from the wiring so much as overriding the brake friction.
I've seen several winches that were operated in reverse orientation so when pulling in the line they were also pulling against the brake. Those winches only lasted a few pulls before burning up.

 

[M1165A1]

Hydraulic would be great but my long search for an ECV front plate failed. I will definitely not be running that winch more than 30-50 seconds at a time with a 10 minute cooldown (as per the manual).

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Hydraulic would be great but my long search for an ECV front plate failed. I will definitely not be running that winch more than 30-50 seconds at a time with a 10 minute cooldown (as per the manual).

the rear hydraulic winch is easy to instal from MM, almost every m1114 has them installed.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

It's more about the internal brake heating up than it is the duty cycle, as with no load it isn't really going to be making a lot of heat from the wiring so much as overriding the brake friction.
I've seen several winches that were operated in reverse orientation so when pulling in the line they were also pulling against the brake. Those winches only lasted a few pulls before burning up.

almost every customer and trucker who shows up here has a winch so bound up they are forced to pay it out electrically, the truckers are the worst as there lone battery is almost always 50%, so using all his battery power to just pay it out is a lesson in futility.
what I learned many years ago was that the situation picks you, not the other way around, you may need to extract Yourself and your motor is not running from a stream or River, thus all you have is your batteries. I’ve been in these situations….anyway, my .50

 

[M1165A1]

the rear hydraulic winch is easy to instal from MM, almost every m1114 has them installed.

Sure and I may add one of those too. Much more useful if I stick my own vehicle (vs needing to pull out another vehicle).