• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

General Hood

General Hood

Member
712
2
18
Location
Fort Towson, OK
Drained and put fresh fluids in the differentials with my 8 year old grandson as apprentice. Also gave him his first experience with a grease gun as I cleaned the zerks ahead of him. A good day for the 2 of us

So, I notice the fan clutch stays engaged from the time the engine starts till turned off. I'm reading the A1 troubleshooting manual, and it mentions testing valve pressure at the hydraulic hose. Have any of you guys made that test ? What tester and associated fittings are required?
 
3jacks

3jacks

Active member
153
39
28
Location
Near Jackson, MO
General Hood said:
Drained and put fresh fluids in the differentials with my 8 year old grandson as apprentice. Also gave him his first experience with a grease gun as I cleaned the zerks ahead of him. A good day for the 2 of us

So, I notice the fan clutch stays engaged from the time the engine starts till turned off. I'm reading the A1 troubleshooting manual, and it mentions testing valve pressure at the hydraulic hose. Have any of you guys made that test ? What tester and associated fittings are required?
Click to expand...
What I used, maybe $20 worth of parts. 1/4" NPT but depends on the threads of the gauge you buy. Your gauge should be min 160 psi as it takes a lot of pressure to release the fan clutch. Mine tested at 25 psi engaged and ~130psi disengaged.
 

Attachments

Last edited:
O

orgnal

Member
285
4
18
Location
Denver, CO
General Hood said:
Drained and put fresh fluids in the differentials with my 8 year old grandson as apprentice. Also gave him his first experience with a grease gun as I cleaned the zerks ahead of him. A good day for the 2 of us

So, I notice the fan clutch stays engaged from the time the engine starts till turned off. I'm reading the A1 troubleshooting manual, and it mentions testing valve pressure at the hydraulic hose. Have any of you guys made that test ? What tester and associated fittings are required?
Click to expand...
I have a similar situation.

McReddy
 
O

orgnal

Member
285
4
18
Location
Denver, CO
3jacks said:
What I used, maybe $20 worth of parts. 1/4" NPT but depends on the threads of the gauge you buy. Your gauge should be min 160 psi as it takes a lot of pressure to release the fan clutch. Mine tested at 25 psi engaged and ~130psi disengaged.
Click to expand...
Thank you!

McReddy
 
3jacks

3jacks

Active member
153
39
28
Location
Near Jackson, MO
orgnal said:
Would you have a picture marked to show when to smack it to bit in case the fan clutch is stuck?

McReddy
Click to expand...
pic 1 and pic 2

With engine running and cold, disconnect the 2 wire connector between time delay module and Cadillac valve. You should hear a noticeable difference and see the fan clutch move (pic 1) about 1/4". It moves in and out as that wire is connected and disconnected. If it doesn't:

shut off your engine off

remove the hose in pic 2 from the fitting and hook up your pressure gauge to that line. Engine needs to be below 195 degrees. Start engine, with the 2 wire connected between time delay module and Cadillac valve. record the pressure you see. Now unhook the two wire (this engages the fan clutch) and record the pressure. You should have pressure over 90psi and below 30 psi in the two readings. If you don't, remove the Cadillac valve and clean it (I used compressed air and blew some gunk out out).

Shut engine off

pic 2: hook up to the fitting (the one you see when you disconnect the line I point to. Pressurize it with 90 to 100 psi...you should see the fan clutch move in and out. If you don't, put a piece of wood on the top of your fan clutch (that silver ring area in pic 1) and tap it with a mallet. Don't break your fan blades...and no need to get psycho with the mallet.
repeat hitting it with pressure and love taps with the mallet until your fan clutch moves in and out.
this is what I did...if I messed up or anyone has input, please chime in.
 

Attachments

O

orgnal

Member
285
4
18
Location
Denver, CO
3jacks said:
pic 1 and pic 2

With engine running and cold, disconnect the 2 wire connector between time delay module and Cadillac valve. You should hear a noticeable difference and see the fan clutch move (pic 1) about 1/4". It moves in and out as that wire is connected and disconnected. If it doesn't:

shut off your engine off

remove the hose in pic 2 from the fitting and hook up your pressure gauge to that line. Engine needs to be below 195 degrees. Start engine, with the 2 wire connected between time delay module and Cadillac valve. record the pressure you see. Now unhook the two wire (this engages the fan clutch) and record the pressure. You should have pressure over 90psi and below 30 psi in the two readings. If you don't, remove the Cadillac valve and clean it (I used compressed air and blew some gunk out out).

Shut engine off

pic 2: hook up to the fitting (the one you see when you disconnect the line I point to. Pressurize it with 90 to 100 psi...you should see the fan clutch move in and out. If you don't, put a piece of wood on the top of your fan clutch (that silver ring area in pic 1) and tap it with a mallet. Don't break your fan blades...and no need to get psycho with the mallet.
repeat hitting it with pressure and love taps with the mallet until your fan clutch moves in and out.
this is what I did...if I messed up or anyone has input, please chime in.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much! I will report back with the out come this weekend.

McReddy
 
juanprado

juanprado

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,605
2,898
113
Location
Metairie/La (N'awlins)
fellow ss member fuzzytoaster sells here the fans.

Ebay direct hyperlinks links are frowned upon. Might want to remove link before big brother gives infraction......

He is the same vendor linked on epay.
 
gottaluvit

gottaluvit

Well-known member
1,786
27
48
Location
Bethesda, OH (AKA: Flyover Country)
Would have offloaded my M998s Tuesday, but dealing with a new to GP base and my (former) hauler messed that up. Ravenna, OH seems to be pure sticklers on extremity of security and wants twice the timeframe of the normal advance notice of who is coming on base. The lined up hauler is a retired major and threw a tantrum when he found out he had to live by the same rules as enlisted prior military and civilians and refused to meet the GP reps that were going out of their way to bring the two M998s outside the gate where he could load them without needing to gain entry on said base. So he just sends me a text saying "GP rep said my ID wasn't good enough to get on base so I will not be hauling your vehicles". Wow, talk about a spoiled brat!
 
Wire Fox

Wire Fox

Well-known member
1,252
161
63
Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
gottaluvit said:
Would have offloaded my M998s Tuesday, but dealing with a new to GP base and my (former) hauler messed that up. Ravenna, OH seems to be pure sticklers on extremity of security and wants twice the timeframe of the normal advance notice of who is coming on base. The lined up hauler is a retired major and threw a tantrum when he found out he had to live by the same rules as enlisted prior military and civilians and refused to meet the GP reps that were going out of their way to bring the two M998s outside the gate where he could load them without needing to gain entry on said base. So he just sends me a text saying "GP rep said my ID wasn't good enough to get on base so I will not be hauling your vehicles". Wow, talk about a spoiled brat!
Click to expand...
Yup, fire that hauler. It's one thing to have to explain a bad outcome to a customer, but it's another to be the one causing the bad outcome...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
110,655members
165,172threads
2,324,097posts
1,775online users
Top