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Big guess for the one on the dash. Field mod for a convoy light ??
That's all I got, CAMO
That's all I got, CAMO
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately
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- Start date
Daves86
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Found out the wire from the switch was hot while changing to the keyed ignition. Thought it would be fine to swap without disconnecting the battery, then I saw the sparks and found out the switch had power. Pulled the wire off the output side. I'll find out where it's feed from.
Lindsaym151
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Put uparmord doors on my 2 man and high back seats in my 4 man, busy week!
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Not to be the pain in the butt... BUT it as been said a ZILLION times here, that when working on the electrical system, DISCONNECT THE BATTERIES !!! There I said it. Cheapest insurance to prevent an electrical catastrophe.
Only YOU can prevent HUMMWV fires, CAMO
AND that thingie above it a "push to test" pilot lamp. Standard item in the government supply chain.
Only YOU can prevent HUMMWV fires, CAMO
AND that thingie above it a "push to test" pilot lamp. Standard item in the government supply chain.
MattNC
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Found a great way to smooth the ride out, add 1500lb of soaking pressure treated lumber in the back! It drove so smooth!
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Another Ahab
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That's a hefty load!
2x6 and 1x4, can't figure out what you're working on. You building a fence?
MattNC
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Years ago I built a playhouse for my kids that is on top of 6x6 pressure treated posts. I am enclosing the bottom of it as a storage area for mowers/lawn tools. Doing that so I can relocate a shed I only partially use. The long term plan is to clear out an area to build a detached storage building / shop / HMMWV garage!
Another Ahab
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alphaseventwo
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LIGHT BULBS
Last weekend I chased down new tail light bulbs for an M1101 trailer that I had to convert back to 24v- for use with my M998. Because the tail light fixtures are the same as hmmwv, I'll tell you the story. Someone had wired it to run 12v for towing behind something more civilian (I'm guessing). Anyway, for what its worth, this is what I learned and can share about that effort; Correct 28v bulb numbers are 623 (running lights/driving lights) and 1683 (brakes/turn signals) NAPA wants $7 each for these?!? LOL! And thats if you can get them. Hate to say it- but A-zon wins again here. found a 10 pack of each for $10 each. Just search for CEC Industries 623 bulb, and CEC Industries 1683 bulb. Now I'll have bulbs until the turn of the century- but still worth it to me.
Last weekend I chased down new tail light bulbs for an M1101 trailer that I had to convert back to 24v- for use with my M998. Because the tail light fixtures are the same as hmmwv, I'll tell you the story. Someone had wired it to run 12v for towing behind something more civilian (I'm guessing). Anyway, for what its worth, this is what I learned and can share about that effort; Correct 28v bulb numbers are 623 (running lights/driving lights) and 1683 (brakes/turn signals) NAPA wants $7 each for these?!? LOL! And thats if you can get them. Hate to say it- but A-zon wins again here. found a 10 pack of each for $10 each. Just search for CEC Industries 623 bulb, and CEC Industries 1683 bulb. Now I'll have bulbs until the turn of the century- but still worth it to me.
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Any clue on the correct designation for the LED version of these? I have tried searching, but those two numbers do not seem to have LED equivalents listed.
Bulldogger
alphaseventwo
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I do not know the id for led equivalent. I would imagine you could use the 12v #1156 number to find a 24v led equivalent led "bulb" for the turn/brake light. I cant remember off hand what the 12v equvalent number is for those smaller 623's...
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alphaseventwo
Member
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I found his thread- may be what you're looking for Bulldogger?
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?31824-Civy-truck-to-MIL-trailer-wiring-info/page6
I have been doing a lot on my M1045 A2. I removed all of the old foam which lined the inner roof of the cab and the slant back. This was a messy job as the foam had broken down and flew all over when it was pulled out. When pulling it off it left a sticky residue which I had to use a sharp scraper and a lot of elbow grease. I would like to replace the foam headliner so if anyone knows where I can find pre-cut OEM foam, or a viable replacement please let me know.
I most recently have been diagnosing a cooling issue and I think it is a faulty thermostatic switch. I flushed and filled the coolant system as part of diagnosing the cooling issue. I found a made in the USA thermostat at a local auto parts store. It is a Stant part number 13479. Evidently this thermostat is made for the 6.2 L engine. While it does fit the 6.5 engine is is not the correct part. While this is an exact match to the thermostat I removed from the my engine the USMC or Melton evidently installed the incorrect part. I have ordered the correct thermostat from Kascar so hopefully it it will fit and work correctly as after doing the flush and thermostat change she is still getting too hot. I will also be installing a thermostatic switch purchased from Kascar.
I most recently have been diagnosing a cooling issue and I think it is a faulty thermostatic switch. I flushed and filled the coolant system as part of diagnosing the cooling issue. I found a made in the USA thermostat at a local auto parts store. It is a Stant part number 13479. Evidently this thermostat is made for the 6.2 L engine. While it does fit the 6.5 engine is is not the correct part. While this is an exact match to the thermostat I removed from the my engine the USMC or Melton evidently installed the incorrect part. I have ordered the correct thermostat from Kascar so hopefully it it will fit and work correctly as after doing the flush and thermostat change she is still getting too hot. I will also be installing a thermostatic switch purchased from Kascar.
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You should never push anything but the green button.
You should always cut the black wire.
You should always remember The Brooklyn Dodgers were called "Those Bums".
You don't tug on Superman's cape
You don't spit into the wind
You don't pull the mask off that old Lone Ranger AND...
You don't mess around with Jim.
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First actual modification I did to mine was a keyed battery disconnect. Adds both security from unauthorized starting attempts, but also security from shorting out components by being dumb and not disconnecting batteries first. Also saves a lot of wear and tear on both the seat latches and my back, that high backed seat ain't exactly light.
911joeblow
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That 6.5 in your M1045 does not use the same thermostat as a 6.2, the 6.5 and 6.5 Turbo motor use a 12551497.
The part numbers 12551497, 12559337 are interchangeable, with 12559337 superseding the former. When doing a search for 12559337 it returns the thermostat with the rubber boot. The thermostat which I pulled out of my 6.5L 1045 was the same as the thermostat in my 6.2 HMMWV, part number 14077122 (Stant 13479). To add to the confusion, some manufacturers, such as Stant, show these as fitting both the 6.2 and 6.5 liter engines, hence my statement that they interchange. I also read that the thermostats with the rubber boot only fit the GEP engines, mine is a Melton. That being said, I am not a mechanic, so if the thermostat I replaced is incorrect, I will swap it out and happily edit my posts accordingly.
Part Number 12559337
Part number 14077122
Showing fits 6.2 and 6.5
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A simple call to Kascar or HPG will bear out what I’m saying.
look in the TM, item 1 is listed twice, one for 6.2, the other as 6.5
and 6.5 turbo. I stock them in the shop...
while it may work, can’t tell you...I use the 24p
look in the TM, item 1 is listed twice, one for 6.2, the other as 6.5
and 6.5 turbo. I stock them in the shop...
while it may work, can’t tell you...I use the 24p
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Also, part numbers change a lot, the NSN’s don’t, many many mfgs use different part number for same part, you can see them in the NSN lookup. The correct t-stat has the rubber.