DREDnot
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My wiper blade retrofit.
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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately
- Thread starter Warthog
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I want the quick release of the newer type click-on connector, but your set-up is awesome.
The other thing is it will allow for the use of easily swapped in rubber wiper blade insert/rubber rather than a new expensive wiper each time you replace.
Crapgame
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I saw somebody used civilian H1 wiper blades and arm assemblies on his .mil rig, was pricey but the quick clip blade replacements makes it worth it, although Tobash's alteration is simple yet brilliant.
suzukovich
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I did the same thing with my M151A2. Both have the same wipers and arms. Had planned on doing the same thing when time to replace the ones on my HMMWV
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RichDane
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- Hatteras, North Carolina
I could not be happier with the tach in the dash....I watch that more than my speedo....
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RichDane
Member
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- Hatteras, North Carolina
View attachment 780303I could not be happier with the tach in the dash....I watch that more than my speedo....
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RichDane
Member
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- Hatteras, North Carolina
Tach in Dash
The Tach is a great addition but I also installed a 4l80 Tranny, best thing I ever did...RPM went from 3000RPM to 1850 at 55 MPH.....Will be headed your way, Andyrv in another week, driving the Humvee 403 miles to Hatteras NC to live....all that beach, Sprayed down with Boiled Linseed for great undercarriage protection ...we are ready !!!
Stonewall
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Nice. I really, really want to put in the 4 speed trans.
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I get about 65 mph at 2400 rpms with my 4 speed in my 1045A2.
RichDane
Member
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- Hatteras, North Carolina
Tach, Humvee and 65 MPH
Thats about right....although after 60'ish I get tire, I think someone called it "harmonics" ... annoying at best...the run flats probably help making things crazy past 60...hard tire to balance without internal beads...if that even works I do not know..
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Consider centramatics. I did and they are awesome.
RichDane
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- Hatteras, North Carolina
Centramatics
I have seen these discussed before but I thought they were way expensive but $276 for four doesn't seem to bad for fixing that issue....**** for what I have spent on other parts and such, it is probably a bargain
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New lift cylinders
I put new lift cylinders on the rear door of the Helmet top, the originals (or at least the ones that came with the truck) were installed upside down, unless clearly marked these should always go in "cylinder up" so the rod seals will be properly lubricated.
I am considering inverting the side boxes so the doors open "up" and put lift cylinders on them also, I understand the doors make a convenient shelf but I don't like having to reach over the doors, or running into them when they are open.
EDIT: I used 17.2" cylinders @40LB EA., they seem to work OK but sometimes a little extra shove is needed to get all the way open, once there they seem to hold fine, If I were to do it again I would buy 45 or 50LB cylinders.
I put new lift cylinders on the rear door of the Helmet top, the originals (or at least the ones that came with the truck) were installed upside down, unless clearly marked these should always go in "cylinder up" so the rod seals will be properly lubricated.
I am considering inverting the side boxes so the doors open "up" and put lift cylinders on them also, I understand the doors make a convenient shelf but I don't like having to reach over the doors, or running into them when they are open.
EDIT: I used 17.2" cylinders @40LB EA., they seem to work OK but sometimes a little extra shove is needed to get all the way open, once there they seem to hold fine, If I were to do it again I would buy 45 or 50LB cylinders.
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cwajciec
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Let me know how flipping the side boxes on the helmet top goes. Might do the same.
papakb
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I have a good friend with a helmet hardtop and we looked into doing this same thing but there are cutouts in the corners of the toolboxes. How did you get around them? Can you just flip the door and not the whole box?
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I have no idea about the cutouts you speak of, I just went out to the shop, got the big light and put on my glasses and they look perfectly symmetrical to me.
EDIT! I did see a picture of the inside of a helmet top that does have the cutouts (could only see the inside view) View attachment 780809
Here is the inside view of one that has the cutouts, my rig does not have these cutouts
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Carrera911
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Did some work on the cooling system. Flushed it 3 years ago and the coolant was already rusty so I decided to flush it again and replace most the cooling lines and thermostat. Looked at humvee thermostats, $40+, give me a break. Shopped around for regular parts without the niche price gouging and here's the part numbers for those interested.
Thermostat- Delco 180* 12T6D $5 amazon
Tstat gasket- Fel Pro 35271 $1.5 Oreillys
Heater core 90* bend- Gates 27466 $8 amazon
Upper radiator hose- Gates 22301 $8 amazon
2' of 5/8", 4' of 3/8", 1' of 3/4" heater hose sold by the foot at oreillys
Removed thermostat, heater valve on, coolant drain open, removed fan temp sensor and put the water hose in the expansion tank. Turned on the hose and ran the truck for 20 minutes, revving it occasionally, until the water came out clear. Cut the end off a junk water hose and attached it to the heater core lines, flushed it both directions.
Filled it with 2.5 gallons of supertech coolant, water wetter and distilled water for ~35-40% antifreeze mix. Water cools better than antifreeze and no need for more when it doesn't go below 20* here.
The heater core lines were looking pretty rough so I sandblasted and powder coated them. Not something I would normally do, but since I have the equipment I figured I'd do it while I was at it.
Thermostat- Delco 180* 12T6D $5 amazon
Tstat gasket- Fel Pro 35271 $1.5 Oreillys
Heater core 90* bend- Gates 27466 $8 amazon
Upper radiator hose- Gates 22301 $8 amazon
2' of 5/8", 4' of 3/8", 1' of 3/4" heater hose sold by the foot at oreillys
Removed thermostat, heater valve on, coolant drain open, removed fan temp sensor and put the water hose in the expansion tank. Turned on the hose and ran the truck for 20 minutes, revving it occasionally, until the water came out clear. Cut the end off a junk water hose and attached it to the heater core lines, flushed it both directions.
Filled it with 2.5 gallons of supertech coolant, water wetter and distilled water for ~35-40% antifreeze mix. Water cools better than antifreeze and no need for more when it doesn't go below 20* here.
The heater core lines were looking pretty rough so I sandblasted and powder coated them. Not something I would normally do, but since I have the equipment I figured I'd do it while I was at it.
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Others before me swore centramatics so I tried them. That’s what I love about this site. Their advice was spot on. I have smooth running wheels from 1-60MPh without any harmonic issues.I have seen these discussed before but I thought they were way expensive but $276 for four doesn't seem to bad for fixing that issue....**** for what I have spent on other parts and such, it is probably a bargain
Work so well that 1 will I’ll be placing a set on my M1101 trailer. I’m also planning on buying a M1093 and I will get a set for that too.
For the price it is like 70 bucks a wheel.
Best
T
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coolant has a higher boiling point then water...so,less coolant is NOT better, that’s why a 50/50 is a good starting point.