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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Maxjeep1

Maxjeep1

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I replaced my dash light sockets and I put new bulbs in. Everything has to come apart to get to the screws that hold them in. I cleaned and polished up my gauges while it was disassembled. My lights work perfectly and cleaning the back of the gauges seems to give me more light
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montaillou

montaillou

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One antenna on, one to go. Mounting a Shakespear SF-3512 (30-512 MHz) & AS-3900A (30-88 MHz). The radio will be a non-military Yaesu FT-991A mounted on a Harris shock mount tray. I'm just kind of winging it here so don't ask me questions like I know what I'm doing.

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TOBASH

TOBASH

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montaillou said:
One antenna on, one to go. Mounting a Shakespear SF-3512 (30-512 MHz) & AS-3900A (30-88 MHz). The radio will be a non-military Yaesu FT-991A mounted on a Harris shock mount tray. I'm just kind of winging it here so don't ask me questions like I know what I'm doing.

View attachment 918435View attachment 918436
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place a bumper or tennis ball on/around/over the antenna to prevent it from hitting and scraping paint on the hard top while driving.

Ask me how I know.

😉👍
 
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C

Coug

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When my pump failed, I bought a cheap 12V pump off amazon or fleabay. I just remember it was cheap, like under $20 for the pump.
3 years later still works every time I use it. Would probably burn up if I tried to run the whole tank of washer fluid through it at once, but a few seconds here and there isn't long enough to cause issues apparently.
 
H

Hummer Guy

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Coug said:
When my pump failed, I bought a cheap 12V pump off amazon or fleabay. I just remember it was cheap, like under $20 for the pump.
3 years later still works every time I use it. Would probably burn up if I tried to run the whole tank of washer fluid through it at once, but a few seconds here and there isn't long enough to cause issues apparently.
Click to expand...
Those pumps are surprisingly durable, I've use those to transfer oil and it still survived, even though it did pump the oil through very slowly
 
Jinx

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What I did to my HMMWV today was secure the batteries, install a gasket at the air filter canister, secure the TCM and finally figured out it's impossible to attach the latches at the top of the doghouse.

Also I drove my now running M1114 to the gas station for some fresh diesel.
 

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H

Hummer Guy

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Jinx said:
What I did to my HMMWV today was secure the batteries, install a gasket at the air filter canister, secure the TCM and finally figured out it's impossible to attach the latches at the top of the doghouse.

Also I drove my now running M1114 to the gas station for some fresh diesel.
Click to expand...
Lol, I have the same problem with the doghouse, I have one of my top latches in but can't get the other to screw in
 
Autonomy_Lost

Autonomy_Lost

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Same here, I realized the right latch is missing the mating piece and so it will never latch until thats replaced.

Edit: info here:

Doghouse top pin

Hello, i just removed over the doghouse for the first time and realized the top 2 pins are not holding. When I look behind them on the metal bracket all I see is a hole. Nothing for it to grab onto. Any idea what I may be missing?
www.steelsoldiers.com
 
Mogman

Mogman

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Jinx said:
What I did to my HMMWV today was secure the batteries, install a gasket at the air filter canister, secure the TCM and finally figured out it's impossible to attach the latches at the top of the doghouse.

Also I drove my now running M1114 to the gas station for some fresh diesel.
Click to expand...
 
C

cahilj

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Been lurking....

Today?

When I picked up my 1097, it had been stripped of all the interior insulation. Literally, whoever turned it in had been told to "Take everything out of that vehicle", so they did, down to the bent metal tubes and screws. All they left was the chunk under the heater core box. In my attempt to replace the blower wheel (since it had been bent when it got installed at whatever point), I needed to drop the heater core box for a bit more play to get the M35 blower motor out (longer than the actual HMMWV motor). So I decided now would be a good time to pull that last chunk of rubber out. Got the rubber out. Then decided to straighten the bent lips of the blower housing (since whoever jammed the longer motor in bent the housing to do it and used about half a tube of silicone to seal it up after). I do sheetmetal and HVAC work by trade, so it's in my wheelhouse. Even though I took my time, one of the 40 year old solder joints on the heater core gave out. So, after all my attempts to NOT have to take the heater core out, here I was, taking the heater core out. Needless to say, It made it much easier to straighten, sandblast and paint the heater core housing. I sweat the heater core back together too.

Over the last 6 months?

Got it running (was listed on GP as non-running...... was simply out of fuel and lost prime). Overhauled the hubs. Added back the front driveshaft (since it was missing). Replaced the transfer case (since it was missing part of the case). Replaced all of the vent hoses. Serviced the diffs. Serviced the transmission. Rebuilt the shifter and park brake. Pulled, cleaned and detailed all the gauges. Put all new warning and data plates on. Added the rear seats and supports. Added the C pillar. Added ALL the interior insulation (remember how it was all gone?). Replaced every light bulb. Added the actual driver bucket seat floor bracing (since it was simply bolted through the floor using an ECV adjuster and had started to tear through). Built my own manual glow plug controller (then found the thread on here with the How-To after I had). Repaired or replaced a whole bunch of little wiring things (like the main breaker that had been cut out and the wire stabbed together for whatever reason). Made my own shifter lock. Added a M996 reverse light. Built my own electronic flasher.

Most importantly- added Simon the bobblehead dog. My wife had one in her HMMWV in 2003 when we met.

I've got a totally custom radio rack with a hidden VIC-3 I'm piecing together. Plans are for a truck that looks the part of something you would see in theater in early OIF.20230629_102214.jpg20231015_170247.jpg20240310_203144.jpg20240310_203221.jpg20240310_203241.jpg20240310_203257.jpg
 
H

Hummer Guy

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Done all of this earlier, insulated the inside (Made sure to leave all of the drain holes opened) This is under hood insulation that's fire and water proof, 6 100ah Deep cycle batteries connected to 450W solar panels, electric split A/C (Ducts can be used in the driver compartment or taken out and used to cool the rear only), got rid of the old dusty hydrualic fan setup and went with the normal clutch fan system (Temp stays at 180-195 typically now), aluminum radiator, paradox rear cylinder cooling (Going to test this later and see if its really effective), little AM/FM radio hooked up to an inverter, and I have the air lift bumper but I haven't put it on yet.
 

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Awol

Awol

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cahilj said:
Been lurking....

Today?

When I picked up my 1097, it had been stripped of all the interior insulation. Literally, whoever turned it in had been told to "Take everything out of that vehicle", so they did, down to the bent metal tubes and screws. All they left was the chunk under the heater core box. In my attempt to replace the blower wheel (since it had been bent when it got installed at whatever point), I needed to drop the heater core box for a bit more play to get the M35 blower motor out (longer than the actual HMMWV motor). So I decided now would be a good time to pull that last chunk of rubber out. Got the rubber out. Then decided to straighten the bent lips of the blower housing (since whoever jammed the longer motor in bent the housing to do it and used about half a tube of silicone to seal it up after). I do sheetmetal and HVAC work by trade, so it's in my wheelhouse. Even though I took my time, one of the 40 year old solder joints on the heater core gave out. So, after all my attempts to NOT have to take the heater core out, here I was, taking the heater core out. Needless to say, It made it much easier to straighten, sandblast and paint the heater core housing. I sweat the heater core back together too.

Over the last 6 months?

Got it running (was listed on GP as non-running...... was simply out of fuel and lost prime). Overhauled the hubs. Added back the front driveshaft (since it was missing). Replaced the transfer case (since it was missing part of the case). Replaced all of the vent hoses. Serviced the diffs. Serviced the transmission. Rebuilt the shifter and park brake. Pulled, cleaned and detailed all the gauges. Put all new warning and data plates on. Added the rear seats and supports. Added the C pillar. Added ALL the interior insulation (remember how it was all gone?). Replaced every light bulb. Added the actual driver bucket seat floor bracing (since it was simply bolted through the floor using an ECV adjuster and had started to tear through). Built my own manual glow plug controller (then found the thread on here with the How-To after I had). Repaired or replaced a whole bunch of little wiring things (like the main breaker that had been cut out and the wire stabbed together for whatever reason). Made my own shifter lock. Added a M996 reverse light. Built my own electronic flasher.

Most importantly- added Simon the bobblehead dog. My wife had one in her HMMWV in 2003 when we met.

I've got a totally custom radio rack with a hidden VIC-3 I'm piecing together. Plans are for a truck that looks the part of something you would see in theater in early OIF.View attachment 918804View attachment 918805View attachment 918806View attachment 918807View attachment 918808View attachment 918809
Click to expand...

It's amazing what they list as non runners. No fuel, missing batteries, or a belt missing and it's an automatic non-runner lol

Nice truck!
 
Mogman

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Awol said:
It's amazing what they list as non runners. No fuel, missing batteries, or a belt missing and it's an automatic non-runner lol

Nice truck!
Click to expand...
Missing batteries or belts does not make it a non runner, it is simple they put a jumper cable on it and if it starts it is a runner, if not it is a non runner, they are not going to put any more effort into it than that, I have however seen some trucks that a third party has apparently been involved in getting them "fixed up" before sale mostly in CA and then there are a few that third parties are selling outright not requiring a EUC as they have already been through that process.
I have seen several running without belts or even a radiator installed, and many without batteries.
 
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