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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

FlameRed

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Once again, @Mogman you seem to be correct. I believe I did not flush it enough the first time the compressor crapped out. I tried flushing it out a second time but it was too late.

Yes, I disconnect all the lines and flushed everything in the opposite direction of normal refrigerant flow. I needed two quarts of flush which is a lot I think.

At least I am getting well practiced at flushing it out and replacing the compressor! The compressor and new receiver dryer is about $150 plus another 2 quarts of flush and R134.

And now at least I have the actual AM General AC factory bracket installed instead of the redneck engineered one it came with from the previous owner. Another "while I am in there..." thing.
I continue to make one step forward, three steps back in my AC repair. Thank you sir, may I have another! :unsure:

I get another two quarts of AC flush and flush it a second time. All pipes, all connections, in the reverse of coolant flow. a new compressor, second one, and new receiver dryer.

This time I install a high side filter to catch whatever garbage might still be in there. Rating says it was leak free unless you try to remove it and reinstall it. BS :burn:

I let it sit on vacuum for 3 hours, and shove in a little R134 to test it for leaks. Sure enough the POS filter has a small leak. Seems like the filter is a real POS. So I decide to put in a minimum charge and let the filter catch any potential crapulance floating around still. Besides, I still do not know if the expansion valve is clogged?

I start the rig and turn on the AC to start charging it up and the AC fuse blows! I replaced the 10 amp fuse with a 15 and all good.

So after putting in a couple partial cans of 134, Got the low side to 30 pounds at 80 degrees ambient temp and the air is blowing cold out of the vent. So I guess whatever garbage was blocking the expansion valve I managed to get out.

Let me see how much refigerent I loose overnight. I am guessing all of it so I end will remove the POS filter and install a splice coupling instead and retest it for leaks again, and fill it completely.

Finger crossed...
 
Last edited:

FlameRed

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I would put a filter on the low side to catch any crap before it gets into the compressor.
The filter I found specifically stated it was for the high side and should be spliced into the output of the compressor before anything else.

The only filter I found, that apparently leaks, is from 4 Seasons Air, and it also sold under the GM Delco label at a higher price of course.



I did not see any filter that stated it was for low side. Actually, I did not find any other in-line AC filter at all!
 

FlameRed

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I continue to make one step forward, three steps back in my AC repair. Thank you sir, may I have another! :unsure:

I get another two quarts of AC flush and flush it a second time. All pipes, all connections, in the reverse of coolant flow. a new compressor, second one, and new receiver dryer.

This time I install a high side filter to catch whatever garbage might still be in there. Rating says it was leak free unless you try to remove it and reinstall it. BS :burn:

I let it sit on vacuum for 3 hours, and shove in a little R134 to test it for leaks. Sure enough the POS filter has a small leak. Seems like the filter is a real POS. So I decide to put in a minimum charge and let the filter catch any potential crapulance floating around still. Besides, I still do not know if the expansion valve is clogged?

I start the rig and turn on the AC to start charging it up and the AC fuse blows! I replaced the 10 amp fuse with a 15 and all good.

So after putting in a couple partial cans of 134, Got the low side to 30 pounds at 80 degrees ambient temp and the air is blowing cold out of the vent. So I guess whatever garbage was blocking the expansion valve I managed to get out.

Let me see how much refigerent I loose overnight. I am guessing all of it so I end will remove the POS filter and install a splice coupling instead and retest it for leaks again, and fill it completely.

Finger crossed...
Can HMMWV be possessed? So today I go out preparing to remove the filter that leaked yesterday. The system is very low so most of it leaked out overnight. Put in enough R134 to find any leaks. Fire up the leak detector and hit every single fitting and hose again.

The leak I had yesterday at the filter is now gone - it self sealed?!?! I don't understand how that can be.

And now there is a leak at the fittings where the hoses connect to the compressor. They were sealed tight yesterday! So I tighten both the high side and the low side fittings and no leaks detected. I'll replace the o-rings on them if they leak again.

Shove in the rest of the can so the level is low, but no point in wasting more if leaks come and go!

System seems leak free now, but I'll leave it overnight and see what leaks develop. If it it has no leaks I'll add another can tomorrow.

Maybe I am going to host an exorcism!
 

Mullaney

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Can HMMWV be possessed? So today I go out preparing to remove the filter that leaked yesterday. The system is very low so most of it leaked out overnight. Put in enough R134 to find any leaks. Fire up the leak detector and hit every single fitting and hose again.

The leak I had yesterday at the filter is now gone - it self sealed?!?! I don't understand how that can be.

And now there is a leak at the fittings where the hoses connect to the compressor. They were sealed tight yesterday! So I tighten both the high side and the low side fittings and no leaks detected. I'll replace the o-rings on them if they leak again.

Shove in the rest of the can so the level is low, but no point in wasting more if leaks come and go!

System seems leak free now, but I'll leave it overnight and see what leaks develop. If it it has no leaks I'll add another can tomorrow.

Maybe I am going to host an exorcism!
.
You might consider adding a can of dye to the Air system. Look under the truck too - where the back is routed. The dye might be just as easy as a leak detector...
 

Thunderbirds

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Took my old windshield to a glass shop. They are cutting two new pieces and adding gray tint. Cost is $140. Each
I hope that is the DOT approved material? I like the idea of getting the tint.

For that cost, you could get a pair shipped to you that have the DOT stamp, and are bullet resistant... I needed to replace one, but did both, and am very happy with them. My original window fell victim to a shooting practice before the truck was sold on GP. I wonder if that was an approved exercise on the part of the Marines?HMMWV6.jpg
 

Caactus

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I hope that is the DOT approved material? I like the idea of getting the tint.

For that cost, you could get a pair shipped to you that have the DOT stamp, and are bullet resistant... I needed to replace one, but did both, and am very happy with them. My original window fell victim to a shooting practice before the truck was sold on GP. I wonder if that was an approved exercise on the part of the Marines?View attachment 932784
. You had me at bullet resistant and DOT stamp… where might you find this? The world is headed in a direction where this may be advantageous. ;)
 

Thunderbirds

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. You had me at bullet resistant and DOT stamp… where might you find this? The world is headed in a direction where this may be advantageous. ;)
Search for 9340011853757 or 9340-01-185-3757, page 255-4, item 55, in the TM 9-2320-280-24P-1 for the original windshield which is bullet resistant.. Many others offer, shop around. Fleabay is a good source and they are getting more expensive by the day.

If you are looking for the ballistic windshield that can withstand minor explosions and larger rounds, page 226.3, item 36. 2510012892233 or 2510-01-289-2233. But these are waaayyyyy pricier.

EDIT: If you have the original HMMWV windshield, you are already bullet resistant from the factory. I just fear if a glass company can get the laminated glass or not to achieve the same safety.
 

Caactus

Active member
82
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33
Location
NW Phoenix, Arizona
Search for 9340011853757 or 9340-01-185-3757, page 255-4, item 55, in the TM 9-2320-280-24P-1 for the original windshield which is bullet resistant.. Many others offer, shop around. Fleabay is a good source and they are getting more expensive by the day.

If you are looking for the ballistic windshield that can withstand minor explosions and larger rounds, page 226.3, item 36. 2510012892233 or 2510-01-289-2233. But these are waaayyyyy pricier.

EDIT: If you have the original HMMWV windshield, you are already bullet resistant from the factory. I just fear if a glass company can get the laminated glass or not to achieve the same safety.
Sincerely, thank you for the info. Didn’t realize the standard windshield was actually resistant. As I don’t have an armored unit, I’m not too caught up with stopping larger rounds… yet. 😳
 

Atchuuu

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Search for 9340011853757 or 9340-01-185-3757, page 255-4, item 55, in the TM 9-2320-280-24P-1 for the original windshield which is bullet resistant.. Many others offer, shop around. Fleabay is a good source and they are getting more expensive by the day.

If you are looking for the ballistic windshield that can withstand minor explosions and larger rounds, page 226.3, item 36. 2510012892233 or 2510-01-289-2233. But these are waaayyyyy pricier.

EDIT: If you have the original HMMWV windshield, you are already bullet resistant from the factory. I just fear if a glass company can get the laminated glass or not to achieve the same safety.
It is definitely DOT approved and laminated but can’t say that it has any bullet resistant properties.
 

Atchuuu

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MS
Search for 9340011853757 or 9340-01-185-3757, page 255-4, item 55, in the TM 9-2320-280-24P-1 for the original windshield which is bullet resistant.. Many others offer, shop around. Fleabay is a good source and they are getting more expensive by the day.

If you are looking for the ballistic windshield that can withstand minor explosions and larger rounds, page 226.3, item 36. 2510012892233 or 2510-01-289-2233. But these are waaayyyyy pricier.

EDIT: If you have the original HMMWV windshield, you are already bullet resistant from the factory. I just fear if a glass company can get the laminated glass or not to achieve the same safety.
Yes, they are getting expensive. I looked on EBay but didn’t find a better deal considering shipping costs. The windows were $90. Each side. $50 extra for a light gray tint.
 

Mogman

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Sincerely, thank you for the info. Didn’t realize the standard windshield was actually resistant. As I don’t have an armored unit, I’m not too caught up with stopping larger rounds… yet. 😳
The "standard" 1/4" windshield gives you no more ballistic protection then any other auto windshield.
 

Thunderbirds

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Northern Black Hills South Dakota
The "standard" 1/4" windshield gives you no more ballistic protection then any other auto windshield.
.
Possibly true. Sorry if I led anyone to believe that they are "bulletpoof", that was not my intention as I don't have any documentation saying that. But I have seen 9 mm rounds go through a car windshield. The windshield that was installed on my M1123 had 9 or 10 round impacts, none made it through the laminated part, barely cracked the inside glass.
 

Atchuuu

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Installed the second and third door today. Had to call West Kentucky Surplus to ask questions and have to comment on the great service by Adam and his staff. So easy to get on the phone and answered all my questions. Doors open and shut perfectly. Lightly swing door and it latches by itself.

I do have a question for the group though, I know these vehicles are modified and not everything fits like a civilian vehicle. But I do have gaps in the rear upper part of the back doors. What does everyone do to seal that. I’m familiar with weather strips but at the top of the door is a good size gap.
 

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Thunderbirds

Well-known member
262
377
63
Location
Northern Black Hills South Dakota
Installed the second and third door today. Had to call West Kentucky Surplus to ask questions and have to comment on the great service by Adam and his staff. So easy to get on the phone and answered all my questions. Doors open and shut perfectly. Lightly swing door and it latches by itself.

I do have a question for the group though, I know these vehicles are modified and not everything fits like a civilian vehicle. But I do have gaps in the rear upper part of the back doors. What does everyone do to seal that. I’m familiar with weather strips but at the top of the door is a good size gap.
.

I don't have hard doors, but I know the C Pillar is more curved at an angle than the A Pillar. Is that why you have such a gap? The hard doors look straigher than the soft top doors... Just MHO
 

Atchuuu

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.

I don't have hard doors, but I know the C Pillar is more curved at an angle than the A Pillar. Is that why you have such a gap? The hard doors look straigher than the soft top doors... Just MHO
I will have to compare the soft doors to the hard doors.
 
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