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What have you done to your HMMWV today/lately

Coug

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To my knowledge, that is a bridge plate for letting others know your max possible gross weight, so a truck that's too heavy doesn't get told to cross an improvised bridge that may not be rated for it.

number would be in tons, so 05 would be 10k lbs, 06 would be 12k lbs. If you are towing a trailer that could put you at 07 or even 08 (I believe it's rounded up to the next rating) An early truck with no trailer might be 04 since it's rated max 7700 lbs.

My truck, being a 10,300 lb max weight plus 4200 lb trailer would be 14,500 lbs, so 08 would be appropriate, though 07 could be argued as well. I know the heaviest I've crossed the scales at was 13,500 with trailer in my M1123.
Found a partial list elsewhere on this site a bit ago that had the M997 and M998 listed as examples that they could be marked as 03 if they were empty, and 04 if loaded to capacity, so that matches what I remembered. Only the first generation trucks listed, nothing newer.
But to change my statement above, it would be for actual weight (if known), not just potential max weight
 
Last edited:

Sjoconnor

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Marshfield MA
To my knowledge, that is a bridge plate for letting others know your max possible gross weight, so a truck that's too heavy doesn't get told to cross an improvised bridge that may not be rated for it.

number would be in tons, so 05 would be 10k lbs, 06 would be 12k lbs. If you are towing a trailer that could put you at 07 or even 08 (I believe it's rounded up to the next rating) An early truck with no trailer might be 04 since it's rated max 7700 lbs.

My truck, being a 10,300 lb max weight plus 4200 lb trailer would be 14,500 lbs, so 08 would be appropriate, though 07 could be argued as well. I know the heaviest I've crossed the scales at was 13,500 with trailer in my M1123.
mine says 69.....
 

FlameRed

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I finally got around to installing a separate the air vent line from the fuel pump so I don't end up with diesel in the transmission, hubs or everywhere else. Just used a few feet of 1/4" diesel fuel line to run it up high to next to the air filter canister, a couple spring clamps, a plug for the original line, and this handy little filter. Took like 5 minutes!

Cheap fix to an expensive PITA potential problem if the fuel pump goes bad.

 

FlameRed

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Busy week, since the Florida Inferno is abated.

Installed the CamoTek glow box this morning. Unfortunately, I'm expert at installing them but this should be the last one for me!

My wish is I could find a way or find someone that can get the two broken glow plugs out without having the remove the heads, or swap engines!
 

Mainsail

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TowJob1.jpg

Most Flight Engineer stories begin, "There we were, flying along all fat dumb and happy, when [insert problem or near-death experience]..."

Well, there I was driving along the highway all fat dumb and happy when the wipers and gauges quit. I was creeping in traffic at the time and didn't notice right way that the transmission was also in limp-mode. This happened 100 yards past the last exit for many miles, so when traffic speed picked back up I was an obstacle.

There was also a clicking up under the dash, coinciding with a momentary pop in the gauges, telling me an automatic circuit breaker was attempting to re-power things, but was finding a short circuit somewhere and kicking it all back off. This cycled every few seconds continually while I was trying to find a place to pull off.

Shout-out and many thanks to RWH for talking me though where to look for possible shorts. Everything was visually good, I couldn't see anything unusual or any wire bundles touching anything they shouldn't be. I attempted to plot a non-highway route home in limp-mode but on Steven's advice decided that wasn't such a great plan with an unknown active short in the electrics. Called the tow truck...

Yesterday was solid rain so nothing got done. SpankyBear suggested it might be an issue with my security key switch (NOT a keyed switch - just a separate switch that interrupts the neutral/park safety line) so this morning that was my first troubleshooting - put the start circuit back to OEM. No change...

Troubleshooting 101 asks; what made this trip different or unique from any other trip? Well, to start it was a lot of 70MPH until the traffic jam when the short occurred, and the wipers had been on longer than they ever had since I got the truck. I've only ever used them for a few minutes here and there, but never for 20 minutes nonstop. So that was my second check - unplug the wiper switch and see if the auto-c/b would stop cycling.

Unplugged the wiper switch and the truck returned to normal. Fired up the truck and was relieved the start box hadn't soiled the sheets - the glow plugs worked as normal and the truck started. Wish I had thought of that before calling the tow!

I put the meter on both connectors inside the wiper switch plug to see if there was continuity between either wire and ground, and there was not. That should rule out the wires shorting at the base of the A-pillar (thanks Steven!) and narrow it down to the wiper switch or wiper motor.

So with the motor running I unplugged the wire between the top of the switch and the motor, and plugged the switch back in at the bottom - no change. Hated to risk it, but wanted to be sure, so attempted to plug the motor back in and the gauges died, and an aromatic curl of smoke came from the plug. Left it unplugged and restarted no problem.

Took it around the block and it's shifting normally again.

I'm going to say the motor is shorted internally and start looking for another. Even though the wiper switch was off, the blades were likely still trying to park themselves, so the motor was shorting and kicking the c/b off. If I had figured that out I could have pulled the plug to the switch and drove it home on the highway. Expensive lesson.
 

Mainsail

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Thank you for the description. It will go in my book “remember when it happens to you”.

When I saw the photo, one of my first thoughts was... Rain -> short circuit of the three contacts under the windshield frame.
I checked for continuity between the two wires that connect to the wiper switch and ground, and there was no direct short, so I hope that isn't the issue.

It seems odd to me that a motor would have a dead short like that, so I'm not entirely convinced it is the motor. My experience is that motors overheat, and might fail, but not suddenly have a dead short to ground like that. So either I'm wrong about the wiper motor and it isn't the problem, or I've learned something new that motors can suddenly short out.
 
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