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winch and shear pins, ugh!!!

whyme

New member
429
4
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Location
angola ny
i seem to go through shear pins like water, im obviously overestimating the abilities of my winch and im just getting frustrated.

first pin was absolutely my fault, i pulled a 40 foot pine down and then tried to pull it out of the ground once on its side. rather than lining up on the side to use the trunk as leverage and twit the roots out i tried a strait pull. shear pin went and that was that.

more recently i tried to assist my self out of a jam in the snow and it snapped like nothing. i chalk that up to the tree i was pulling from being only 20 feel away and leaving the cable on the top layer further complicated by the fact that the front axle buried in heavy snow.

i just feel like the winch is a little under underrated for this truck
 

wdbtchr

New member
883
3
0
Location
St. Louis, MO
First off I don't have a deuce, however I had the same problem with my 5 ton dump when I first got it. Have you checked the gear/bearing box on the winch? I found the ones on mine MT when I checked them the first time. After I filled them and ran the winch in and out a couple of times and it has worked fine since. I'd start there.
 

Wildchild467

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Milford / Michigan
i had the same problem with my winch even using a 10 ton snatch block. i have a grade 2 bolt in it now. i dont like that i have that bolt in there, but its the best i can do for now. i just use my head when im pulling something and always use a snatch block. I might even buy another snatch block just to make it easier on the winch.... why not? more OD Green stuff to buy!
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,595
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
i had the same problem with my winch even using a 10 ton snatch block. i have a grade 2 bolt in it now. i dont like that i have that bolt in there, but its the best i can do for now. i just use my head when im pulling something and always use a snatch block. I might even buy another snatch block just to make it easier on the winch.... why not? more OD Green stuff to buy!
I wouldn't use steel - it is asking for trouble. Sometimes it's difficult to tell how much strain there is even when being careful. I have also heard of some of the aluminum shear pins being made of the incorrect alloy, which is softer. Perhaps this is why some aluminum pins are shearing. I've used my winch many times , winching my Deuce, other trucks, tractors and trees and I have never sheared a pin. Although I do have a 10-ton snatch block, i normally don't use it because I'm lazy and it's heavy. My pin is definitely aluminum and is the original pin installed when I picked the truck up from GL.
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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I think both cranetruck and gingertube had posted on this info
 

Heavysteven

New member
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Location
Hickory Flat Ga
I used my winch once to pull a pathfinder out a ditch up hill. It worked problem, looking back I think I could pulled the frame out.

So, I don't think it's under powered. I thinking Gimpyrod suggestion is correct.

I would not use a bolt because the winch is pto driven.
 

ODdave

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Location
lansing michigan
imo, the winch is rather pathetic for what it is on. had one come apart, after seeing what its made of i think it could have been better. I do understand tech was limited then though.
 

whyme

New member
429
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Location
angola ny
i checked the hole and its perfect. in a pinch i used the pin from the pintle hitch and i sheared through that too but thats when the front end was buried. its def not hanging up al least that i can tell because it puts no load on the engine when im re-spooling or winching out. i just kind of expected more out of it i guess, it looks intimidating but unless the line is all the way out its not even 10k max load according to the TM. was fine for small cars and trucks and i love that there is no duty cycle but there are so many electric winches that are smaller and rated higher, tech of the day as ODdace said i guess.

oh and no snatch block yet and i know that will help considerably.

thanks for the replies
 

Kalashnikov

Member
372
4
18
Location
NH
I think the shear pin could be made to withstand a 15klb capacity, maybe even 20klb. Everything seems mounted plenty strong enough to handle the force. Need to find an alloy with a shear strength of 150% of the aluminum the pins are made out of.
 

ODdave

New member
3,213
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Location
lansing michigan
I think the shear pin could be made to withstand a 15klb capacity, maybe even 20klb. Everything seems mounted plenty strong enough to handle the force. Need to find an alloy with a shear strength of 150% of the aluminum the pins are made out of.
Its not the shear pin that is the problem, that can be easily upgraded. Do it at %150 and see what happens, or i can put a pick on here so you dont have to spend $500 plus to find out for yourself. The brass gear is the week point and WILL blow the housing apart.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
GA Mountains
Getting enough cable off the drum is paramount. Snatch blocks help do this as well as ease the strain on the winch. Nobody has mentioned a light foot though. You don't need to up the idle at all. My winch will do whatever I ask of it at 800 RPM. I work the clutch pedal very slow and consistently. 1500 RPM or banging that clutch pedal around does considerably assist in breaking shear pins. I'm very much a stickler on using only GI pins, none of the dealer stuff on the market. I'd like to think I have a lifetime supply but I better not curse myself.
 

stumps

Active member
1,700
12
38
Location
Maryland
There are several alloys that would do a good job. The most probable are: 2024T361, 2014T6 or T651. All have a 42ksi shear strength. It could also be: T2024T3, T4, or T361. They have a shear strength of 41ksi.

The best 6061 alloy is T6, and it withstands a grand total of 30ksi.... not even close.

-Chuck
 
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