Wrecker Broken CV Joint

[wcuhillbilly]

Got the shaft back from my machinist, the shaft fought him and he ended up breaking a few end mills from it hopping out of the cradle, then while cutting the splines his mill got out of sequence, thus--- start over. Prices thus far, machining-$580. Drive line shop flanges/yokes/joint. $150 so this venture has cost me a bit over $700.
Got it back in tonite but need to cut some more out of the crossmember.
Here are some pics of the shaft


Welded up old 12 spline and cut in modern 16 spline (no 12 spline yokes made anymore)



High angle 1330 yoke, flange, on shaft.


Part numbers
part numbers didn't come through on the pic as well as I had intended, so here ya go
PTO Flange,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Spicer 2-1-1313-8 $Cant remember
shaft side flange of PTO flange,,,, Spicer 2-2-459 $39.46
Slip yoke, high angle,.................. Spicer 2-2-8021KX $47.95
1330(1/2ton GM) U Joint............. Spicer 5-153X ..........$10.00

 

[red]

Still running the stock CV up under the crane?

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Still running the stock CV up under the crane?

correct, I barely fit in the space above the diff to install that pig, and as much as I ponder it, I cannot figure a good way to drop the oil pan and rig a flange up there right now during the winter. Since this shaft runs at (now 25*) angle, and that crane bed crossmember is not alterable without compromise I would have to re-engineer the input on that 90* box. Given the small space and the need for a contorsionist to get into that space, I am retaining the stock (good) CV joint for now... I noticed a crack in the boot lip on the oil pan box last nite so we will see how long this lasts.
Plan now is to get the specs on the crane drive- GPM flow etc. and try to match it to a PTO driven hydraulic pump that I can run off a "Wet Kit" on the 10spd. Thus,, if it all goes south again, I can do away with the Pwr divider and run a wet kit to power the rear winch,/crane. and maybe the front winch too.
Problem with using the 936 hydro drive system is that most 936s have to run at 1500RPM to get any kind of power out of the crane system, and our 816s can usually do most anything at idle to 1300rpm. THus I don't want to be stuck sourcing Military parts when I can go find industrial pump truck stuff and have it back on and running before the Mil suppliers even call me back.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Got the shaft back in last nite, and this afternoon should be close to 50*F so the irritable beast may fire so I can test and re-cradle the boom after 3 months.
I ended up torching more out of the crossmember to get the angle and clearance correct, until something goes bump....


Ended up with enough taken out that I may be able to weld a strap under the shaft to re-reinforce the crossmember



Final angle was 23*, Far cry from the original config at 36* and even my mock up at 26-29*....




Have to run down the road for cell signal, and I will see if I can upload some pics.
Computers hate me,, can't upload pics, webpage keeps timing out giving me a SteelSoldiers page says file upload failed message

After 2 weeks and about 20 attempts the pics finally uploaded

 

[joeM62]

Thanks for the information I didn't know that part could be a problem I've only had a M62 in the past just got a M816 from a friend of mine

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Thanks for the information I didn't know that part could be a problem I've only had a M62 in the past just got a M816 from a friend of mine

Yes this shaft is the Achilles heel of the 816,. Keep the cv's happy and they will serve you well but when it goes get ready to part with some serious coin

 

[Csm Davis]

correct, I barely fit in the space above the diff to install that pig, and as much as I ponder it, I cannot figure a good way to drop the oil pan and rig a flange up there right now during the winter. Since this shaft runs at (now 25*) angle, and that crane bed crossmember is not alterable without compromise I would have to re-engineer the input on that 90* box. Given the small space and the need for a contorsionist to get into that space, I am retaining the stock (good) CV joint for now... I noticed a crack in the boot lip on the oil pan box last nite so we will see how long this lasts.
Plan now is to get the specs on the crane drive- GPM flow etc. and try to match it to a PTO driven hydraulic pump that I can run off a "Wet Kit" on the 10spd. Thus,, if it all goes south again, I can do away with the Pwr divider and run a wet kit to power the rear winch,/crane. and maybe the front winch too.
Problem with using the 936 hydro drive system is that most 936s have to run at 1500RPM to get any kind of power out of the crane system, and our 816s can usually do most anything at idle to 1300rpm. THus I don't want to be stuck sourcing Military parts when I can go find industrial pump truck stuff and have it back on and running before the Mil suppliers even call me back.

Okay wcu I believe that the difference in engine speed is going to be the transmission not pump related. I also thought you were getting rid of the keyed sleeve and housing for a longer and less angled shaft. But I like what you have so far.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Davis:. Yes the plan is to get rid of all of the shafts down there. Goal is to put in an Eaton Fuller 10spd or bigger,. Run a 2stage wet kit off the trans and do away with the power divider due to t case being pushed back for trans install. The wet kits that i have run on petes and freightliners can be set up with a 125% overdrive so the rpm shouldnt be an issue. However a pump / hydro motor to power the crane/winches will be a equation that has to be worked out. Also the box under the crane as you and i discussed on the phone, the seal and wires for lights will become an issue at some point, so some re engineering will be in place there too. Bottom line, i like the military setup, but sourcing repair larts out here in BFE is a pain. Sourcing off the shelf commercial parts is easier if you know what to look for

 

[red]

With the angle you got it down to (23 degrees) it's just about right for the ujoints they use for a tractor PTO. Sucks being the test dummy for this conversion but I'll be following your lead probably next year.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

With the angle you got it down to (23 degrees) it's just about right for the ujoints they use for a tractor PTO. Sucks being the test dummy for this conversion but I'll be following your lead probably next year.

or,,, I can sell you my setup for about what I have in it, when I put the Eaton Fuller 10 in and go hydro.....
All kidding aside, holler at me and I can give you part numbers and diamensions etc.... Yes, sucks being a test dummy but now someone else can learn from what Ive gone through and not have to suffer quite as much.

Joe S. 307-282-0773

 

[joeM62]

For what it's costing to do this is there a lower cost way to do it thought I heard someone say in another post a civilian CV joint might work and if so this might cut the cost down. I don't get on here much and between reading on this and other sites about this topic

 

[wcuhillbilly]

By re-engineering to the current configuration I can easily fix my shaft with a $12 u joint from any auto parts store, fromthis point forward, can't get any cheaper than that. The civy CV joints that Adams and a few of the others chimed in with were anywhere from $60-500 . the stock shaft could be fixed with whatever you want to but my desire was to eliminate the steep angle and have locally available parts for speedy repair. This configuration accomplished that and I believe it did so for minimal cost, as my machinist is considerably cheaper than most.