M35a2 motor swap

[acesneights1]

Well I decided to start another thread since this is obviously past inj pump problems. I will try to document as much as possible for future newbs to the motor swap game. As you may have read in my last thread, I basically got screwed by a dishonest seller. After post mortem on the motor I have come to the conclusion that it was blown up when I bought it. It dropped a piston for unknown reasons. I think it was already damaged and then the guy screwed up the inj pump and then it ran away. I will never know the truth but here I am...
So I got a nice deal from a very helpful member here (I will let him identify if he wants to) a Hercules LDT 456. It had 1600 hrs on the hour meter but it was a 92 reman so I suspect maybe even less. It looks pretty good overall. It is HEAVY. It took us a bit to get it loaded in a safe manor . I strongly suggest to anyone planning on picking one of these up BE PREPARED. Make a cradle ahead of time. If this thing falls over, it is not going to be pretty. Bungie chords and rope ain't gonna cut it. I had 5 straps on it and felt it needed more but made it home ok. The Old M1008 handled the weight quite well and we had loaded the motor toward the back. It hardly swayed at all. Ok, next tip...have a plan of what you are going to do with the motor when you get it home. Me, nah...just hook it up and lift it out and then say..oh crap now what do I do with it. I could not get it to steady on block in a manner I was comfortable with and of course my skidsteer is as old as me and as worn out so it creeps down. I had to whip up a quick cradle while ever few minutes lifting the motor back up...Then of course my mig feed jammed so bad I could not get the old wire out so I went over to the Ranger 8 and the batt was dead...Ughhh. Was I done getting tortured yet ?? No of course not..It starts raining to top it all off. Well I got the Ranger 8 started, rounded up some scrap angle iron and whipped up a nice redneck engine stand. It will do nicely for the old motor as well for storage...
More to come...

 

[Warthog]

It's not just a job (hobby), It is an adventure.

Looking forward to the resurrection of your dead Deuce.

 

[acesneights1]

The motor currently has the wrong oilpan and pickup tube as the PO took it out for an LDS swp and put the LDS parts back on this motor to keep it closed up.

My question is when I put my pickup tub and pan on it, should I prime the oil pump especially since it's been sitting ? And how would I do that ?

Also Should the flywheel bolts to crank be locite and which loctite ? Blue or red ?

Lastly the rear main seal looks fine and no signs of leaking...leave it be ?? change it ?

 

[m715mike]

After reading your first post, I completely understand Al Bundy shooting himself in your avatar!!!!

Subscribed. opcorn:

 

[acesneights1]

Well did a major cleanup and tool round up before I get started so I am not looking for stuff but I did get the radiator out. Pretty easy actually. Disconnect both hoses. The bottom one is a PIA but luckily it was not stuck on. The two bottom bolts with teh springs looked kinda ugly but the nuts came right off. The rubber under them looks wasted. I have some nice rubber fire hydrant hose to cut up for new ones. The grille only needs the top two bolts completely removed. The bottom two just need to be loosened as the grill is made to tip forward or just slide off. Then just the one bolt on the upper bracket and it came right out. It is not heavy at all. I put it on my garage so it doesn't get stolen by the local slimeballs. They been stealing the copper right off the light poles. I took the wires off the Generator. That is all for tonight. I plan to have it out tomorrow so I can get the flywheel off to have resurfaced. I will order the clutch Monday. Really the biggest issue I see is swapping the Oil Pan. I can't get it off on my homemade stand. I would have made it higher but I did not trust the angle iron to be strong enough. I will have to do it with the motor hanging from the Skidsteer which is not making me all warm and fuzzy. Something tells me my Harbor Frieght engine stand will not support this motor..Gonna go out on a limb with that statement. Too bad, where I work they auctioned off both a heavy duty OTC engine crane and stand for big motors. I should have bid on them...Oh well Maybe I'll pull some scrap steel out of the pile at work and build me one. The OTC even had a gear reduction crank to spin the motor upside down...I think I will pull the pan off my old motor before I yank it so I have it off already and don't damage it.

 

[acesneights1]

Think this would hold it lol ??
http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb-foldable-engine-stand-69521-8970.html

 

[acesneights1]

Ahh...more like this.. on fleabay

 

[DieselBob]

I have one of the 2000# China wonders and it is fine for a small block but I had my 7.3 powerstroke hanging on it to replace the piston cooling jets and the way it sagged with just that gave me a 10 on the pucker meter. I've seen a few of the revolver's show up on a fairly common auction web site a few folks on here seem to view with some regularity.

 

[Flyingvan911]

I think a little bit of the blue loctite thread locker should work. Some of the red stuff (the 272 I think) will basically weld the bolts in.

 

[Jeepsinker]

I wouldn't trust the harbor freight stand to hold up a Briggs+ Stratton. I like having all my toes and both my legs.

 

[clinto]

While you're swapping engines, now is the time to do anything engine compartment related:

Want to paint it (the engine compartment)? No better time.
Steering box leaking or worn out? Believe me, now is the time to rebuild it. Memphis has the rebuild kits priced reasonably.
A steam cleaner will make everything nice and clean and make future service work much more pleasurable.

 

[DieselBob]

Never gave the steering box a thought. Very good idea. I hope to put my new engine in this summer and will do the steering box also.

 

[HanksDeuce]

For people like me that lack welding skills and/or equipment we can use wood dunnage blocks for an engine stand. A couple 6x6's and 2x4's. Note: Lowe's or Home Depot cannot cut a 6x6 for you so I used a neighbor's chainsaw. I recall the deuce engine weighs 1500 lbs without transmission. Be careful.

Good luck on your motor swap! I second the notion of cleaning the engine bay and doing general maintenance while the motor is out.

 

[acesneights1]

While you're swapping engines, now is the time to do anything engine compartment related:

Want to paint it (the engine compartment)? No better time.
Steering box leaking or worn out? Believe me, now is the time to rebuild it. Memphis has the rebuild kits priced reasonably.
A steam cleaner will make everything nice and clean and make future service work much more pleasurable.

Yep, that was the plan. I have however run into a stumbling block. Looking at it this morning, planning the pull, there is no way to safely support the transmission so I need to either drop it on the ground first or pull it with the motor which may be more than my skidsteer can handle. I have to thinking about this but does anyone know how to get the pin out of the clevis on the clutch rod where it hooks to the clutch lever at the bellhousing ? I can't figure out how to get it out .
I'll post pics later but found some interesting things while disassembling.
Edit: I found this on removing the pin...
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?94132-Clutch-adjustment-clevis-removal

 

[clinto]

The transmission isn't heavy, 2 guys can pick one up. The bigger issue will be properly balancing the load with the transmission attached.

I don't have a good way to do this (currently) so I separate the engine and trans before removal. I am working on a way to pull and install them together as an assy.

 

[m-35tom]

if i were you, i would run the engine before i put it in.

 

[acesneights1]

if i were you, i would run the engine before i put it in.

I bought it from a member here and know the history of it. I am confident enough to drop it in.

 

[acesneights1]

The transmission isn't heavy, 2 guys can pick one up. The bigger issue will be properly balancing the load with the transmission attached.

I don't have a good way to do this (currently) so I separate the engine and trans before removal. I am working on a way to pull and install them together as an assy.

Well, I got it out as one unit bymyself. It was not fun. Minimal damage. Scraped a few things and messed up the fuel lever on the inj pump but that motor is going for scrap anyway. The oil pan did not get damaged and that is what I needed off it. It can be done in one shot but the mistake I made was leaving the front bumper on. I will probably put it back in motor 1st and then transmission simply because I am doing it by myself and have no one to guide it and the skid steer was struggling with it. I took a chance because the worst I would have been out is an oil pan. The rest of the motor is junk but with the new one...I will be more careful. Biggest bitch is getting the driveshaft out. A 3/4 ratchet(not socket, ratchet) wrench is mandatory. I'll put the vid and some more pics up later.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Nah, not mandatory, just handy. I use a ratchet on one side and a box end wrench on the other. Why is the oil pan important? If it a multifuel, its just installed backward as a 5ton set up. The oil pick up tubes is what is different. You'll need to swap those. Also, if you put your trans in after you put the motor in, you will want the trans in (I think) 1st gear, as it sucks in the shift rod that sticks out the back of the transmission. That rod is only used in a truck with a sprage T-case, but it will still hinder your installation if it isn't sucked in.

 

[Recovry4x4]

The transmission isn't heavy, 2 guys can pick one up. The bigger issue will be properly balancing the load with the transmission attached.

I don't have a good way to do this (currently) so I separate the engine and trans before removal. I am working on a way to pull and install them together as an assy.

I've done these both ways and frankly, I find it easier to do them seperate. Lifting the oil pan over the front crossmember (unless you have the removable one) and getting the tranny tower under the firewall is a bit of a pain. I also find it worth my effort to remove the left fender.