Getting my M1009 ready for road trips!

[Streamline]

Maybe just wait all together on sealing floor till I can recover some from money being spent on everything else then go back and get the line X done because I agree its better! I have a friend that done his 2000 s10 truck bed with Line X and it still looks the same today! I would rather it be right and I dont yet know the longevity of this rubber paint we use!

 

[Streamline]

Well Dang! Looks like my started may have gone out in this truck Yesterday! Im pulling it today to check for sure. Will a 12v High Out put work or must it say 24v? Cant find a 24v locally. Im looking this up now in the TM's.

Or is this a good time to change over to a 12v Alternator and Starter? My Dad seems to thank for travailing purpose I would be better off with a 12v starter and alternator because I could get it easily worked on if needed!

 

[tim292stro]

Should be able to find it at any Napa parts store. Check this thread.

 

[Streamline]

Decided to order a New one from NAPA it was $255.00 for a 27MT Original part! Im going to double check size of head when it comes in but when I took my starter off I did not find any of the shims that are mentioned by other members and under the CUCV Wiki!

 

[tim292stro]

You should be able to get one rebuilt by any reputable starter/alternator shop. I know a replacement armature (rotating assembly) costs about $50-60, and brush kits are around $10. It you haven't totally destroyed the starter that came with the truck, don't toss it - have it rebuilt. For something critical like a starter or injector pump, I would plan to have a good/clean rebuilt spare handy - it'll reduce repair costs and alleviate stress not having to do a parts hunt. If you're doing a lot of cross-country driving with the CUCV, make a space in a tool box for both of those. Otherwise for occasional trips, having them boxed for shipping and accessible to local family/friends can make it a simple over-night ship to get a part you know is right and is ready to go.

Also, if you're mechanically inclined and reputable shops are not available in your area (it happens), learning to rebuild a starter isn't actually that hard.

My ::

 

[ssdvc]

Hey do what you want. But I spent 3 months after work removing a brush in liner out of this M1009. I thought the same thing and a crafty Dura Back salesmen gave me a 2 gallon military OD green sample at N/C to try on my floor. He stayed there and helped apply it. And used it to show a few people how nice it was. Well after 2 years the floor was rusting under the coating and the coating was peeling here and there and staying on other places. I had to remove everything out of the inside and used a pick hammer and knock holes in the floor where ever the bubbles were under the Dura Back. I spent $150. on urethane stripper and hundreds of hours till I got all the Dura Back out and fixed all the holes. I had the Dura Back put in in 2009 and spent the entire winter and spring 2013 scrapping, sanding, and fixing the rust in the floor. Do what you want. I spend $795. to get my Line X installed. I paid the up charge for the primer and it is well worth it. Almost bullet proof to heel damage and sharp things. Dura Back had wear marks where the drivers feet go in 3 months and you could see a big difference in the first year where other people had stones in their shoes. Do what you want. I am only trying to help. Save you a lot of work and cussing. Good Luck. This is my opinion.

I have seen Ricks truck in person and the floor looks fantastic. Rick is absolutely right about going with Line-X. Well worth the investment.

 

[tim292stro]

...Well after 2 years the floor was rusting under the coating and the coating was peeling here and there and staying on other places...

The big detail here is that Line-X is a vapor barrier, whereas Dura-black is not. Even with heavy priming, Dura-black will let water vapor through the membrane, if this finds steel or iron you will get rust. Kind of like the various morons who only primer their cars so that they get the flat finish, rather than doing the flat topcoat - primer is just as porous, which is why paint grabs to it well. Ever see the rusted out hoods on rice-rockets a year after they primer it to reduce sun glare?

 

[Streamline]

The core on my starter is $55.00. When we pulled the long bolt out holding the support bracket you could smell the burnt! Its probably worth paying the $55.00 and keep the starter and have it rebuilt for later use!

 

[Streamline]

I got the New Starter on the truck today and she starts right up! Even has much stronger cranking now! The Starter i got from NAPA was the exact same brand and it bolted right up no issues and no shims needed!

Thanks for yalls help!

Now Im back on schedual! I will start tomorrow tearing down the tail gate preping it for welding then primed and painted with a coat of Black paint for now. Then off to its appointment with the window tent people that will also be adding a set of Nerf bars!

 

[tim292stro]

Just keep an eye on your start voltages. if you have to crank more than once, wait 10-15 second between cranks to both:

1. cool your starter down
2. let your batteries recover
3. on cold days this lets the hot/warm air from the compression cycle heat-soak the cylinders

The second point is an important characteristic of chemical batteries (a type I'm being specific about emphasising), they take a while to convert the chemical energy to electrical charge. If you think of it like a bucket with a trickle feeding it, if you pull water out of the bucket faster than it gets replaced eventually it will be empty. If you are starting on a cold day, and you need that bucket as full as possible to crank over, a bit of patience will do some good. Just keep the glow cycle short on anything after the second crank attempt.

Are you still using the original 6TL batteries in your truck?

 

[Naqeeb]

Streamline, what was the quality of the parts you ordered from LMC truck? I need to order pretty much all of the same items you listed. I need a tailgate, too. I think I may have found one at a salvage yard.

 

[Streamline]

Are you still using the original 6TL batteries in your truck?

I have two Optimum Batteries in the truck that were in them when we purchased truck from Gunnermac. Im sure they are not same as when came off base years ago!

 

[Streamline]

Streamline, what was the quality of the parts you ordered from LMC truck? I need to order pretty much all of the same items you listed. I need a tailgate, too. I think I may have found one at a salvage yard.

I believe the quality was good! For what I paid it better have been! I could have gotten a aftermarket replacement for just over 100.00 but I paid $255.00 from NAPA. It looks just like the one I pulled off same numbers in housing and all! So either mine had been replaced before with same starter from Wilson Electric or its same as came with truck! They only gave me a Year warranty but from what I was told Wilson Electric is top Dawg in the electric motor business!

I went ahead and paid the $55.00 core charge and kept my old start will have it rebuild for back up!

Here is the part number for my starter and specks!
Part Number: WIL 91014376
Product Line: Wilson Electrical



Attributes: # Starter Teeth : 10

Starter OE Manufacturer : Delco Remy
Starter Rotation : Clockwise
Starter Series : 27MT
Starter Type : Direct Drive
Starter Voltage : 24 Volt
Brand Name : Wilson Electrical
Contents : (1) Starter Assembly

 

[Naqeeb]

Did you order this stuff?:

EVA Sound & Heat shield for front and back floor
Molded Heavy duty PVC 4pc floor mat
Window and door seals
Weather stripping for removable top
Led upgrade lights for instrument panel
Inside threshold trim

I need the same items. If you did order these items was the quality good?

 

[tim292stro]

I have two Optimum Batteries in the truck that were in them when we purchased truck from Gunnermac...

Those might be part of the problem. Optima's don't have a lot of reserve capacity or Amp hours to work with... I did a comparison a while back in another thread.

Your average Red-Top Group 34/78 (normal for a "car" battery), only has about 100 minutes reserve capacity - so loads like glow-plugs will beat the crap out of them on short errands. Also, only having 50Ah means you're only giving your loads 42% of the original engine-off run time.

 

[Streamline]

Did you order this stuff?:




I need the same items. If you did order these items was the quality good?

I have not ordered these yet because of the low quality opinions of many on here I went looking other places but relay did not find much different! Probably will order some of this mainly the interior floor items this month! I will post up pictures how its looking when I get it in sometime this month I hope!

 

[Streamline]

Those might be part of the problem. Optima's don't have a lot of reserve capacity or Amp hours to work with... I did a comparison a while back in another thread.

Your average Red-Top Group 34/78 (normal for a "car" battery), only has about 100 minutes reserve capacity - so loads like glow-plugs will beat the crap out of them on short errands. Also, only having 50Ah means you're only giving your loads 42% of the original engine-off run time.

Unfortunately I do not understand much of what you are saying! But I get what you are saying! These Optimum Batteries are not cheep at over $150.00 each! I would have thought they would do the job! I cant see cranking amps on the batteries so not sure if they are 800 or more! What battery would you recommend for this system? I will look at your other thread you made a link to and see what all is there! Thanks

 

[Naqeeb]

Streamline, thanks for the reply. My M1009 is about to go to a local painter then Line X probably. The last part will be these parts and finishing up the interior and weather-stripping.

 

[Streamline]

Well looks like now that I fixed the leaky fuel pump now the Fuel filter housing is showing signs of leaking! So now on to the fix!

I will be upgrading to a Screw type fuel filter housing that will take cumming diesel filters. This way while on the road no matter what if I need a filter any truck stop will have one in-stock! I purchased everything I needed today to do the switchover including new filter for $52.00 at Nash Truck Parts in Athens GA.

This is the style housing im going with!

I chose this style because it allows me to use a slandered Cummings fuel filter! The one I purchased does not have the electric part as seen in picture! All we will need to do is make a bracket for it to attach to fire wall and we are golden!

 

[tim292stro]

Like playing with plumbing in an old building, touch one thing two things break, and then the fun begins .

I believe the "electrical thing" in the picture you posted in the fuel heater - your location says Georgia... You may or may not want that part - may if you see cold below 0°F, may not if you don't.

Cold diesel will gel in-place when it gets too cold - the parafin wax comes out of solution and like you would expect wax to do, turns into a candle where ever it is. If it's in your fuel filter you won't have fuel flow to your IP...