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M925a2 Power Surge

74M35A2

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Livonia, MI
Hi bud. Are those the same as an example you had at the Findlay meet? Air filter on the 9 is a known weak point, even for the stock 8.3L. ISL-400 is an MRAP engine (as you well know), so I will be looking to change. I'm hoping to not lose the fording capability, but if I do then so be it, I hope to never drown the truck anyway. I grabbed the air cleaner box from the RV, since it was stock for that engine and power level, but of course it is some ugly plastic thing with impossible mounts on it.

Are yours MRAP, if not OK, do you know any ratings on them? Thanks.
 

Jbulach

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Yeah, we're going to stick some more amps in it.

Not really upgrade, but to confirm it had a 400hp/1200ft-lb calibration in it (which it did), but then to also change some configuration settings. It is switchable between 12/24 volts, so flipped it to 24v (and the rest of the engine electrical components that were 12v), turned on the Jake brake option, changed expected trans type from auto to manual, set PTO speed to 1400rpm, set max cruise control speed to 900mph, stuff like that.
Cool! Whats the max RPM? Is that adjustable? Guess it must be for 900mph...
 

74M35A2

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Get your hands off my filter!

Smart cookie, max governed ISL RPM is 2200 (unchangeable), virtually same as the stock 8.3L. This part is a bummer, since it is so easy to increase the 8.3L RPM with governor springs. If it was not for the OD ratio in the 13 speed trans, then I probably would not be doing any of this swap actually. I would have just turned up my 8.3L in timing, fuel, and RPM, and been happy with it. I considered to P pump the ISL (has been easily done by others) and switch it to an earlier mechanical injector head in order to get the RPM's up on it same as you can an older 8.3L, but with the increased power and 0.83 OD in the new trans (vs 1:1 in the Allison), it will be enough and a slight speed increase from where I am at now. So, I'm electively choosing to keep the common rail EFI over a P pump, and the negative trade off will be max limited RPM. Main reason there is wishful thinking in improved efficiency (MPG), easy cold starts, and pull like a freight train with zero stack smoke while doing so. We'll see. I live and operate this is in a subdivision type city with a high population density, so don't want to be making a bad rep blowing black smoke everywhere if I can have even more power without doing so.

Pic of first gen ISL converted to pure mechanical P pump (not my engine, this one was put into a Chevy pickup with a 13 speed Road Ranger trans):

ISL P Pump.jpg
 
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74M35A2

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Livonia, MI
Trans is on engine now and engine done with setup. Next step is to mount the hydraulic clutch pedal in my cab ahead of time, then go ahead and do the swap. I need to get the logistics of the swap figured out. I don't live on acreage like a lot of you do, so I have to plan where I will yank the engine and then have the truck close by to complete the install. There will be a lot of downtime for custom making intake tubing, charge air cooler, move radiator back 2.5", lengthen driveshaft, etc.... If the truck is not close to my house, then this stuff will never get done and it will sit in a galaxy far-far away in non-running condition. Maybe I'm really just getting cold feet now that it is near time to pull the trigger. If I had a way to yank and set the engine/trans at my work with our forklift there, this is pretty straight forward. But forklift forks are not long enough. I am thinking to rent a front end loader or make a gantry to do it. We have a vehicle hoist here, but the 9 is too wide to fit between it.

I need to take some measurements of the forklift forks (10,000lb unit), vs how far they can go in from the front or side, especially if I remove my winch and frame extensions. Then there may be a chance of this working somewhat easier. We have forklift extensions, but they can't carry crap, they are pretty weak actually. Maybe I can strap a 4x4 rectangular steel tube to the forks to make a boom. Thinking.....

I'm going to make a boom that attaches to our large forklift, and has a cable tie-back from the boom tip back to the top of the fork attachment plate. That will work. Need to take some preliminary measurements and check the cantilever weight capacity of 4"x4"x3/8" square tube. Can use multiple tubes atop each other if needed.
 
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Jbulach

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Most equipment rental places will have a forklift jib that you can rent to get your heavy lifting done. Does your forklift have a 10,000 pound capacity or does it weigh 10,000 pounds? They usually way around twice their capacity...
 

74M35A2

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Location
Livonia, MI
Jbulach just moved back to the top of the friend list! Found this is something that can be rented from a local rental place, $120 per day. That's a done deal. Thanks bud!!!! The rental one is rated at 8,000lbs 6' out from the fork plate, with a 12' max reach (reduced capacity). ISL is about 1700lb, RTO-12513 about 800lb, so 2500lb total, this should work safely with a 10,000lb capacity forklift. Removed 8.3L is about same, with the Allison being slightly less weight, maybe 550lb I think. The 13 speed Road Ranger is a cast iron case with 3 shafts of steel gears inside, and a cast iron auxiliary box on the back with more steel gears that does the splitting of the top range gear set. We should be good to go. This attachment crane weighs 400lbs.

jib.jpg
 
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Jbulach

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Sunman Indiana
No problem! Shop around, $120 sounds high, or maybe not for you???
Now wheres that baby throwing piles of money out the window video clip when I need it...
 

74M35A2

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Location
Livonia, MI
That's what these trucks are no matter what. The 2 most accurate statements I have heard on this site are the following (not in significant order):

1. Every girl loves my military truck, except my wife.
2. The cheapest part of the MV hobby is the actual vehicle purchase.

I have driven my M925a2 10,000 miles in the 4 years I have had it. At a generous 10mpg, that is $2,500 just in fuel. Then plates, insurance, and a pile of yet uninstalled parts. $120 is local and good enough. You're right, I should shop it around, but there may not be many places to get it from around here. Time is $ too, I don't have to yank the engine an hour away and try to tow the truck back to my location, unpowered, with another truck. $120 is worth that to me. Just crossed off the list as accomplished.
 
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Buffalobwana

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Frisco Texas
No problem! Shop around, $120 sounds high, or maybe not for you???
Now wheres that baby throwing piles of money out the window video clip when I need it...
I think I could build that exact model for under $200. Probably a stronger one.

Shipping will be a beach, but we can look into options.
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
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330
83
Location
Livonia, MI
Me too, but time is the factor here. I'd rather be dropping the engine into the 9, rather than building something that is never going to be used again. It is OK to let somebody else make a buck every once in a while. I used to do everything myself, and wonder why people pay to have their lawn cut and cars washed. Now, at age 44, I get it.
 

74M35A2

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Location
Livonia, MI
Looky what showed up. I'm sitting here in my desk chair stepping on the pedal making engine noises. Where's the plunger?

ACC.jpg
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
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Location
Livonia, MI
Proof of ISL-400 power/torque rating within the ECM calibration, for all the armchair racers. Only thing not listed here is the 2200rpm limit.

ISL Power.jpg
 

74M35A2

Well-known member
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Location
Livonia, MI
I want to take a moment to give a shout of appreciation out to member/moderator Will Wagner. He's been very forthcoming in offering his extensive knowledge/advice/tools/etc in coming this far. He reviewed the ECM for me and made the configuration changes (he can't do it for Dodge Ram diesel applications, so don't go there). His largest help has been deciphering the 24 volt part numbers I needed for some items, along with a description of the coalescing filter drains and coolant system flow (differing high/low pressures within the block for heater core and coolant air bleed routing). Of course the ECM review also, though I could have had that done at a local dealer, Will actually knew my intended target vehicle application, so that was a huge help. This info would have been hard to find quickly without his help and resources. It is a valuable tool to have him contributing and be as excited about this as myself and others.

Also a special thanks to member grendel. If it were not for acquiring the 13 speed transmission, I would likely not be doing any of this. Always wanted my 9 to be a shifter, and wasn't going to do it unless I could have an overdrive to go just a smidge faster. A 13 speed is hard to come by, especially at a reasonable price. We horse traded some things around and he made the transmission available to me for a cost within reason. Though he never thought it would leave my shelf once I finally arranged shipping on it (6 months later), here it is stuck onto the back of an engine 33 years newer than it, and about to be dropped in. The guy really has a "can-do" attitude. It was his single sentence of "They all have the same frame rail spacing, you can have anything they have." sentence that established my confidence. Thanks buddy, I hope you can drive it one day.

Also to all the others who have been patient, supportive, and funny though this. I have need it all to come this far, please continue.

I know I know, get the engine in, and get my back window fixed. I'm on it....
 

Buffalobwana

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Frisco Texas
Me too, but time is the factor here. I'd rather be dropping the engine into the 9, rather than building something that is never going to be used again. It is OK to let somebody else make a buck every once in a while. I used to do everything myself, and wonder why people pay to have their lawn cut and cars washed. Now, at age 44, I get it.
Oh, me too, I was just commenting on
the weather and
the General price of
Corn these days and how much I HATE the new iPhone keyboard that has a
return key where it’s not supposed to
be.
 
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