need hemtt Detroit Diesel 8v92ta mechanic near Sacramento

[bigmike]

Update 8/1/2020
thermostatic housings installed. Dropped in the new aftercooler. Dropped in the supercharger and turbo charger. Installed the air compressor, now that was a bitch. Lining up the intermediary gear between the two while holding that sucker up took quite a bit of muscle, sweat and cussing. Starting to round 3rd and heading for home. should be “making smoke” as Will Wagner would say, in a few more weekends.

 

[Tracer]

Mike your were reading my mind. I was going to give you a call this weekend just to see how things were going with the Detroit, and It's looking good Mike! Just think, at our next MVCC Plymouth Meet, whenever that is? Word is going to get around of how much you accomplished with the 8V92, pretty much on your own. PS, and I won't tell anyone you accomplished all this, with Lori looking over your shoulder. Again, well done!!

 

[bigmike]

im Thinking of replacing all my fuel lines. Anyone know where I can get this fabric braided line?

 

[Tracer]

Mike, I always replaced that fabric line with fuel specific neoprene line, or braided stainless. In So. Cal. I always used Deering Industries in Long Beach for fuel and hydraulic lines, they do lines for racing aircraft, boats, cars and what not. You might give them a call at 562-595-1668, ask for Mr. Mitch. You can ask them if they know someone in the Sacramento/Nor. Cal. area that does fuel/brake lines. Hope this helps.

 

[bigmike]

I thought about stainless but the fabric is easier to make on my own. Looks like summit racing has it in different grades...30R9, 30R7 etc.

 

[silverstate55]

Find your nearest Parker shop that specializes in hydraulic hoses....they will have the upgraded fuel-rated lines Tracer mentioned, and you won’t be sorry. Better than anything you can mail-order from Summit.

 

[bigmike]

Update 8/23/2020:
installed all the water lines today. I’ll need to remove a line in order to install the cooling fan. i chose to do this so I can access the crank in order to make all the valve and rack adjustments. Now the plan is to fill the radiator and pressurize the radiator so I check for any leaks. The TM says the cooling system is 7 PSI. My plan is to pressurize it in reverse by squirting some air up thru the drain petcock after filling. I figured that if I accidentally put in too much air, the cap will do it’s job and vent the excess.
Regarding coolant, the TM mentions an inhibitor added to “permanent” coolant. Is there specific coolant I need to use? BTW, it holds 20 gallons.

 

[Mullaney]

Update 8/23/2020:
installed all the water lines today. I’ll need to remove a line in order to install the cooling fan. i chose to do this so I can access the crank in order to make all the valve and rack adjustments. Now the plan is to fill the radiator and pressurize the radiator so I check for any leaks. The TM says the cooling system is 7 PSI. My plan is to pressurize it in reverse by squirting some air up thru the drain petcock after filling. I figured that if I accidentally put in too much air, the cap will do it’s job and vent the excess.
Regarding coolant, the TM mentions an inhibitor added to “permanent” coolant. Is there specific coolant I need to use? BTW, it holds 20 gallons.

Quick thought... I know NOTHING about a HEMTT, but that radiator is HIGH DOLLAR. I would think you might want to test the pressure cap to be sure that it releases pressure at 7# before you try testing your cooling system with air.

A split in that radiator could run into hundreds of dollars or more...

 

[silverstate55]

Update 8/23/2020:
installed all the water lines today. I’ll need to remove a line in order to install the cooling fan. i chose to do this so I can access the crank in order to make all the valve and rack adjustments. Now the plan is to fill the radiator and pressurize the radiator so I check for any leaks. The TM says the cooling system is 7 PSI. My plan is to pressurize it in reverse by squirting some air up thru the drain petcock after filling. I figured that if I accidentally put in too much air, the cap will do it’s job and vent the excess.
Regarding coolant, the TM mentions an inhibitor added to “permanent” coolant. Is there specific coolant I need to use? BTW, it holds 20 gallons.

The attached Operator’s Guide should help; it specifies an appropriate ethylene-glycol based coolant; I would stay with a low-silicate GREEN coolant, as the newer orange or pink coolants may have adverse effects on cooling system components in older motors.

There is a Supplemental Cooling Additive product that is available and I can post a pic of it later as I’m not in my shop today.

 

[WillWagner]

+1 on NOT using shop air to pressurize the system. Go to NAPA or the likes and get a pressure tester. I have one I could ship to you, but I am leaving for 9 days. If yo wanna wait though.....

 

[Mullaney]

+1 on NOT using shop air to pressurize the system. Go to NAPA or the likes and get a pressure tester. I have one I could ship to you, but I am leaving for 9 days. If yo wanna wait though.....

The real advantage to a pressure tester is that it has a cute little gauge on it. You can pump it up to whatever poundage your system will support, let it sit overnight and know for sure it isn't leaking.

The pressure tester will also verify your hoses, heater core and the rest of the cooling system. One drawback to testing with "air only" will be finding the leak.

Trying to fill that system with air only using the little hand pump on the tester will be tiring. Go cheap. Put water in it and drain it after you confirm no leaks...

I have used food coloring in plain water on a really nasty truck so the color wouldn't be red or green. Blue is a good choice and you won't forget that it isn't antifreeze that way either.

 

[bigmike]

Update 9/7/2020
filled the cooling system with water and pressure tested it. I went ahead and used a bit of compressed air up thru the petcock to pressurize the system. No adverse issues at all. Worked great. Several hose clamps dripped (tightened them up), found a bad hose (right head to air compressor), replaced it...and BAM no leaks from heads or liner O-rings. Drained the water and got the oil pan positioned for installation. Need soldier B to help with the pan. It’s 111 degrees right now so I’m done for the day.

 

[Mullaney]

bigmike, I am glad to know it isn't just me that uses tape or old bell wire to simplify things going back together. Sure makes it easier... Sometimes I wonder what we ever did before cameras on phones.

Congrats on a no leaks inside the motor! I feel your pain with the heat. This weekend is the first time in almost a month in North Carolina that we have been under 90 with about 80% humidity...

 

[Tracer]

Mike, let me know when your going to need Soldier B, and I can sneak over Donner Pass to Dixon for an afternoon. Today the wife and I were at June Lake in the morning and the smoke wasn't to bad, then we started for home later in the day, and the smoke was coming in like the Fog in San Francisco Bay.

 

[bigmike]

Mike, let me know when your going to need Soldier B, and I can sneak over Donner Pass to Dixon for an afternoon. Today the wife and I were at June Lake in the morning and the smoke wasn't to bad, then we started for home later in the day, and the smoke was coming in like the Fog in San Francisco Bay.

Yikes!

 

[bigmike]

Update 9/20/2020
adjusted the exhaust valves as well as the fuel injectors. I didn’t have the proper tool J34610, shown below, but used dial calipers instead. The TM says the tool is 1.466” but looking up the tool part number on the internet says it’s 1.458”.
Read the TM, looked at motor, read TM again, looked at motor, read TM again, looked at motor...finally figured it all out...I ran the rack! Woohoo
i still need to adjust the throttle delay. TM calls for using a .069 and .072 pin gage. Anyone have the gage or have a workaround?
today I’ll install the exhaust manifolds and attach the remaining air lines to the throttle and fan clutch. Need to get remaining supplies (oil, antifreeze, oil filters, fuel filter) in preparation for the big day...making smoke soon!

 

[WillWagner]

Don't forget to adjust the Jakes

 

[bigmike]

Don't forget to adjust the Jakes

If I didn’t mess with them, do they still need adjusting? I only unbolted them from the heads. Put each one back in exactly the same position.

 

[WillWagner]

Did you adjust the cross heads....bridges...whatever GM called them? Just do it, it would suck if they were too tight and as soon as it got hot, the clearance goes away and kills the engine. You are there.....

 

[bigmike]

Jakes done...wasn’t a big deal.
next hurdle: anyone know where I can find/ borrow these Gages?