• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

Elijah95

Certified Rookie
1,239
1,196
113
Location
Georgia
New “What did you do to your wrecker today?” Thread is up, y’all come join in



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Wreckclues

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
222
607
93
Location
Jefferson, Massachusetts
Rebuilding the Trico Filberth wipers on my M813.
Scored a couple rebuild kits on evil bay...from WWII.
Only need the cylinder gaskets, hope they fit, can't imagine they've changed much.
The other surfaces and gaskets look good, the air ports and passages needed cleaning.
Think I've figured these things out, see attached.
Air is directed to either side of the cylinder by a piston valve controlled by a balanced spring mechanism activated by a control rod attached to the cylinder scuttle (the piston in the cylinder geared to the wiper arm). With the mechanism in the up position air flows into the valve side of the cylinder, while air at the other end is exhausted through a port that communicates with the valve side through ports in the gasket flange. Near as I can figure what look like zerk fittings on the valve body are poppet type exhaust valves?

Air Flow.jpgExhaust Valves.jpg
 

Ajax MD

Well-known member
1,569
1,414
113
Location
Mayo, MD
Rebuilding the Trico Filberth wipers on my M813.
Scored a couple rebuild kits on evil bay...from WWII.
Only need the cylinder gaskets, hope they fit, can't imagine they've changed much.
The other surfaces and gaskets look good, the air ports and passages needed cleaning.
Think I've figured these things out, see attached.
Air is directed to either side of the cylinder by a piston valve controlled by a balanced spring mechanism activated by a control rod attached to the cylinder scuttle (the piston in the cylinder geared to the wiper arm). With the mechanism in the up position air flows into the valve side of the cylinder, while air at the other end is exhausted through a port that communicates with the valve side through ports in the gasket flange. Near as I can figure what look like zerk fittings on the valve body are poppet type exhaust valves?

View attachment 891518View attachment 891519
I'm following this with great interest. I have a dead one that I'd like to repair. The plastic ones are abysmal.
 

Wreckclues

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
222
607
93
Location
Jefferson, Massachusetts
Update; The structures I thought were exhaust ports are exhaust ports and they were clogged. Ran the valve head through an ultrasonic parts washer in cleaning vinegar at 130F and it cleared up my problem.
Also found that the WWII Windshield Wiper Repair kit has most of the gaskets necessary to rebuild the later model metal motors.
Here's a link to my video.

Air Pressure Wiper Rebuild

I'm trying to clean the exhaust ports of my other wiper without completely disassembling the motor by soaking the ports in various solvents. So far gasoline didn't work, I'm using Kroil now.

Another thought on why these motors might fail could have something to do with the distance the pistons travel in the cylinder, which is adjustable.

Piston Travel.jpg

If someone mistook these bolts for lubrication ports or otherwise messed with them that could throw off the valve timing.
 

Ajax MD

Well-known member
1,569
1,414
113
Location
Mayo, MD
Update; The structures I thought were exhaust ports are exhaust ports and they were clogged. Ran the valve head through an ultrasonic parts washer in cleaning vinegar at 130F and it cleared up my problem.
Also found that the WWII Windshield Wiper Repair kit has most of the gaskets necessary to rebuild the later model metal motors.
Here's a link to my video.

Air Pressure Wiper Rebuild

I'm trying to clean the exhaust ports of my other wiper without completely disassembling the motor by soaking the ports in various solvents. So far gasoline didn't work, I'm using Kroil now.

Another thought on why these motors might fail could have something to do with the distance the pistons travel in the cylinder, which is adjustable.

View attachment 893192

If someone mistook these bolts for lubrication ports or otherwise messed with them that could throw off the valve timing.
Awesome, you've given me several things to check.
 

Valley Rock

Big wheeler cat peeler
Steel Soldiers Supporter
444
836
93
Location
Orygun
M931A2

Well where do I begin, I went out to start it a few days ago and it was a no-go situation .
It's had an intermittent habit of starting hard for a few years, but always started, but not this time .

So I addressed all the usual suspects, does it have fuel, is it getting to the pump etc.
Cracked open the bleeder at the last filter pushed on the little pump till I was blue in the face, some air, some fuel, gave up on that, drilled a hole in the fuel cap, installed a schrader valve and squeezed a little air certain that I would find fuel dripping out where it MUST be sucking air in ...

This went on for a bit, not as decisive or efficient as I thought the process would be, cracked open the bleeder on top backside of the pump, got fuel and air coming out there for what seemed like forever, still sure that I should be seeing fuel leak out of somewhere on the ride up from the tank, nope .

In between these several attempts of getting the pump full of fuel I tried starting it, nothing .

So I removed the return line off the pump with the little spring loaded ball in it, gave it a brake clean bath and removed a lot of brown gunk, I'm reasonably certain it was stuck somewhat open and drained all my fuel back to the tank, including all the fuel from the long injector lines, as when I finally loosened the little bleeders on top of the injectors I got nothing but air for an eternity with the little primer pump on the side of the block .

So back to the air to the tank, after another long period of time and eventually got 90+% straight fuel out of the lines at the injectors, good enough to give it a whirl with the starter again .

It started alright, and went straight to the moon !

I was unprepared for that (novice move) fortunately for me and the engine I had removed a section of intake pipe and the rubber boot that was in my way to bleed the injectors, providing me a metal surface to put a 5 gal bucket up against that I grabbed in a blurry hurry .

Still not enough but brought the rpm's down considerably, not being able to bring it down any more and it showing no signs of stopping for days I grabbed my wrenches off of the cowl, and eventally found the one that fit the injector lines at the pump and cracked those open eating high pressure diesel with my face , eyes etc. until it died .

Truck must be a female, it's messed with me since I've owned it .

I can go out to my to my old Deuce, fire it right up and drive it anywhere without fail, I love that old no power steering havin smokin son of a biscuit eater .


That 5 ton, not so much .
 
Last edited:

Valley Rock

Big wheeler cat peeler
Steel Soldiers Supporter
444
836
93
Location
Orygun
Am I the only one that works on my 5 ton ?

Well anyway I got it running today, it took some time and some doin, the rack was stuck in the injection pump, pita .

But I won .

I now have ATF in the fuel tank, and shall from now on (I only have one tank) and I will start it and run it more often meow cuz I dont wanna go thru that again .

Would like to remove the annoying park brake buzzer inside if anyone has any tips on the location of that thing .

~ Mike

.

20230401_180604_HDR.jpg20230401_181406.jpg20230401_180604_HDR.jpg
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,125
9,384
113
Location
Mason, TN
Am I the only one that works on my 5 ton ?

Well anyway I got it running today, it took some time and some doin, the rack was stuck in the injection pump, pita .

But I won .

I now have ATF in the fuel tank, and shall from now on (I only have one tank) and I will start it and run it more often meow cuz I dont wanna go thru that again .

Would like to remove the annoying park brake buzzer inside if anyone has any tips on the location of that thing .

~ Mike

.

View attachment 894393View attachment 894394View attachment 894393
I've done nearly everything possible to a 5 ton so I ran out of stuff to do to it to continue to post.
 

Wreckclues

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
222
607
93
Location
Jefferson, Massachusetts
Hey, I'm working on my 5 Ton.
Troubleshooting the fuel gauge this time, every time I turn on the power the gauge pegs full.

20230401_223844.jpg

So I pulled the float. Now I'm still kind of new to this MV Shtick, but I feel something might be missing...

20230401_222425.jpg20230401_222433.jpg
20230401_222249.jpg

So far this tank has eaten a pickup tube and a fuel float...when did Jimmy Hoffa disappear?
 

Wreckclues

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
222
607
93
Location
Jefferson, Massachusetts
Would like to remove the annoying park brake buzzer inside if anyone has any tips on the location of that thing .
Why not just disconnect it?
On my M813 I think it's this doohickey, power lead 85, up underneath the dash, behind the oil pressure gauge. JD disconnected the dang thing before I took delivery of the truck. Now I just have to figure out how to reconnect it before the inspection...oy
20230402_103311.jpg
 

Jbulach

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,661
2,192
113
Location
Sunman Indiana
I think Valley Rock is working on a m939 series. Speaker is built into the module that controls the dash warning lights as well.
 

Valley Rock

Big wheeler cat peeler
Steel Soldiers Supporter
444
836
93
Location
Orygun
Actually after giving it a moments thought, I believe there is a little roller with a couple wires hooked to it on the E-brake handle itself, whatever there is, I predict it's going to fall off on the next bump the truck feels .

I'm only interested in stopping the incessant noise of that E-brake on brake buzzer .
 

TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,653
1,669
113
Location
Nova Laboratories, WA
That does sound like a good deal and it looks pretty nice - almost as cool as an M813!...;)
It gets better.

They told me sometimes it'd crank and not start... Classic air leak in the fuel line in a 30+ year old truck... So when they listed it, they made it sound like it wasn't running. So I was fully expecting to have to replace a bunch of stuff just to get it to start... and one of the first things I do when I get a truck is replace fuel lines and run a spin on filter, so it was one of those 'I was gonna do that anyway' kinda things, SPECIFICALLY for this reason, they get air and they don't wanna start.

I popped the hood, pressed the prime button about 30 times....... and heard the pressure release clicking....meaning fuel was bypassing the pump because it was pressurized.

All fluids were good/at level.

So I was gonna check and see how it turned over.. BATT switch on, barely touched the starter, fully expecting (and wanting) it to not start, just to hear/feel how it rotated..... I mean barely flicked it.... and the damn thing caught and roared to life.

ABS light is on, and oil pressure gauge doesn't work, and they were pretty rough removing the emergency lights and left all the wiring, but overall, so far it seems like a steal.


AND... the listing was just 'army truck'.... Then said it was the super-uber-rare M9234A2 :ROFLMAO:.....But the PoC for the agency sent me pics of the data plate and engine, and in talking to him he's the one that told me about the crank/no start and their mechanic apparently didn't wanna do any work on it....

So, they listed it almost as a 'parts truck' because they didn't really know anything about it, other than 'sometimes it won't start'.. :cool: I absolutely love it when gov't employees don't know what they have and just put whatever up there because they want it gone.(y)

I still have to go through it, and there may still be hidden issues....but I'm psyched... It runs, it drives, and for ~$8500 with taxes and fees to get a running/driving A2 is phenomenal these days.

04-07-2023_135716.png
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks