CTIS pressure settings increase - no programming, transducer, or module required.

[hike]

Or create a virtual Windows 7 machine on a Linux box and start looking for the cabling to connect to that round plug–

 

[GeneralDisorder]

Or create a virtual Windows 7 machine on a Linux box and start looking for the cabling to connect to that round plug–

Doubt that would work without a LOT of effort. A lot of this software is cracked and relies on direct hardware access and has problems working even under actual windows machines. It's flaky and difficult to get to work under the best conditions. It you have all the time in the world to devote to it then I'm sure it would be possible. But for a laptop you are going to toss in the cargo space and probably have to hook up to an inverter because the battery has died in the months you haven't needed it...... it's just not worth the effort to avoid using actual Windows 7. I mean..... why?!? Because of some Microsoft hate? Literally everything in our daily lives including all the parts on these trucks is made by a soulless corpo entity that profits off the suffering of wage slaves, rampant consumerism and/or our $842 billion defense budget. Capitalism gave you all that stuff. Microsoft happens to be good at capitalism. I just really don't see the need to make my job harder by trying to reinvent the wheel - it works and it's free and it will never be connected to a network of any kind EVER (I removed the wifi daughter board from my "FMTV diagnostic and programming" laptop). In this case the path of least resistance has no drawbacks other than whatever mental blocks you impose upon it. That's just time I can spend doing something constructive or enjoyable.

 

[Awesomeness]

Well this is going to make a few people (including myself) feel really silly......

I've been getting pretty deep into a CTIS diag on a friends truck and had the occasion to swap modules between my truck and his, and vice-versa. And I've been going over documentation and troubleshooting info and discovered something that's going to make a lot of you guys really happy and possibly regret one or more purchases.

First off - the Dana/Spicer CTIS controller used in the FMTV family does indeed contain multiple "programs". In fact the controller actually contains NINE different programs. These are accessed through all the various possible combinations of power, ground, and open circuit on pins M and Z of the CTIS controller connector (P110 on the schematic). The various FMTV schematics aren't always clear on this point - many of them show both of them having power, and some actually do show "MTV Only" on pin Z. From looking at my 2008 M1079 A1R compared to the 2001 M1088 A1 we can say that in these two examples the 4x4 truck has 24v fed to pin M and Z is not populated, and the 6x6 truck is the opposite - pin Z has 24v and M is non pinned.

The wiring on the truck determines which programming the controller runs when powered on. But there are actually 9 different programs - the FMTV's are only using 2 of them.

My apologies to Ronmar who suggested this may the case and I dismissed the possibility since the software makes NO mention of this nor does it allow access to any of the settings for other programs. You have to switch the wiring and reconnect the software.

The implications of this are:

A: Installing a controller from a 6x6 truck into a 4x4 truck will do exactly nothing on it's own.

B: Fooling the controller with an Amazon transducer isn't necessary - your controller already has higher pressure settings. Also this throws off the controllers atmospheric pressure reading.

Now since there are nine programs the two being used by our various trucks are +24v on M/open on Z or open on M/+24v on Z - there are 7 more programs that are just unused. What's on them? Well I haven't checked them all, but on my truck I did cut the power to pin M (so open circuit on both option pins), and the program it loaded is identical to the 6x6 default program.

So to get M1088 pressure settings on your LMTV or other truck with 55 psi highway mode, you can just cut the 1911 wire going to pin M at the controller connector. That's it. No other modifications required.

We verified that my 4x4 controller went to 81 psi highway on the M1088 harness, and also that the (green 2001 controller) went to 55 psi highway on my M1079 harness. So at least the A1+ trucks seem to conform to this.

*EDIT* - I have read in several threads that A0 trucks will work with A1+ controllers but the pressure settings and overspeeds are wrong. Likely a result of different programming selection via harness and different speed sensor settings since the A0 trucks are using the transmission speed sensors rather than the CAT ECM pulse per mile information. But with the right information it would be trivial to program a later CTIS module to work on the A0. @Lostchain and I have discussed setting up a full CTIS test bench so could easily program whatever into controllers if needed...... *EDIT*

Here's the default settings for the LMTV controller (except for my 90 mph highway overspeed setting):

View attachment 906056
View attachment 906057

And here's the program for both option pins open circuit:

View attachment 906058
View attachment 906059

Second point - with this information it's relatively easy to install a toggle switch to switch pin M or Z from +24v to open circuit or to ground and get easy access to 3 of the 9 programs. And with the right software and adapter you can program the pressure settings in each of those programs and have 12 different pressure settings available. There is a CTIS OFF indicator lamp in the dash and provision on the truck for a switch used in the optional arctic kit for toggling power to the controller - this is easy to wire in and can be used to cycle power and thus switch programs while driving. I haven't yet tested if the controller will switch programs on the fly or not and I'm not sure that's a good idea to recommend anyway - if it works it may not work on all of them - there's quite a few generations of the controller - green and black and of the black units there are variations - older black units will not coms with J1939 for example while newer ones will........

This is good work. I love it. This is the kind of stuff that slowly comes out over many years, decades even, before the issues and fixes for a particular line of vehicles is well understood.

As an aside to several of the comments that follow the original post, the Arduino solution is novel, but Arduinos are prototyping toys for an electronics-friendly environment. Stick it in a fanless box, in 100°F weather and humidity, and it's less happy. We could benefit from a more robust solution.

 

[hike]

Doubt that would work without a LOT of effort. A lot of this software is cracked and relies on direct hardware access and has problems working even under actual windows machines. It's flaky and difficult to get to work under the best conditions. It you have all the time in the world to devote to it then I'm sure it would be possible. But for a laptop you are going to toss in the cargo space and probably have to hook up to an inverter because the battery has died in the months you haven't needed it...... it's just not worth the effort to avoid using actual Windows 7. I mean..... why?!? Because of some Microsoft hate? Literally everything in our daily lives including all the parts on these trucks is made by a soulless corpo entity that profits off the suffering of wage slaves, rampant consumerism and/or our $842 billion defense budget. Capitalism gave you all that stuff. Microsoft happens to be good at capitalism. I just really don't see the need to make my job harder by trying to reinvent the wheel - it works and it's free and it will never be connected to a network of any kind EVER (I removed the wifi daughter board from my "FMTV diagnostic and programming" laptop). In this case the path of least resistance has no drawbacks other than whatever mental blocks you impose upon it. That's just time I can spend doing something constructive or enjoyable.

Life is full of choices. As a commercial real estate broker and developer I am well versed with capitalism's soullessness. I appreciate your help, knowledge shared, and graciousness in the face of my glib response—

 

[hike]

After replacing our battery disconnect relay, installed the new Dana ECU made for an M939A. If I am reading the M939 and M1078 schematics right our new ECU can receive power or ground on H and X, or V, F, and Z. Our M1078A1 is providing power on H and M (though M is not used on the M939), so H; and ground on F.

The M1078A2 schematic shows X being used for the SAE J1939 (-), Z could be power, V is not used, and ours has no pin at Z or V. I am wondering if adding power (a pin) to Z or V might find another program?

 

[Tortuga]

I always wondered why my newer black box Dana/Spicer controller would always flash "overspeed" on my A0 dash when my original Green controller (which has broken buttons) would not.
I have to check my wiring, but are you suggesting that a wiring change could make this overspeed go away in addition to increasing HWY pressure?

Thanks in advance

 

[Ronmar]

I always wondered why my newer black box Dana/Spicer controller would always flash "overspeed" on my A0 dash when my original Green controller (which has broken buttons) would not.
I have to check my wiring, but are you suggesting that a wiring change could make this overspeed go away in addition to increasing HWY pressure?

Thanks in advance

It probably wont fix the overspeed...

 

[DeMilitarized]

Not really, no. You can find the Dana controllers brand new for like $600 to $700. And used one's are $100 to $200 and will continue to land on the surplus market for decades in both new and used form. With the free software, an RP1210 adapter that you should probably have anyway if you have an A1+ truck, and a $100 laptop you can program them and diagnose with them.

How many of the Arduino units have been created? A few hundred maybe? The Dana unit has been built in the millions of units. Between military and industrial applications. spares, and 30 years of manufacturing. MILLIONS of them.

New:

CTIS Tire Pressure Control Mrap M939 FMTV LMTV 676422 6110-01-268-8739 | eBay

For sale is a New Dana Spicer/International CTIS system. The part number is 676422. The NSN number is 6110-01-268-8739 Here are the specs HUES Color Black.

www.ebay.com

Used:

m939a2 ctis controller m923a2 m936a2 m939 m923 m934a2 m931a2 | eBay

The colors will be green. Buttons will have wear and tear and will be faded from age. We also have other take off CTIS Parts and have any 5 ton Parts you may need for your m939. We are solely focused on 5 tons let us know where we can help you- Jim 5076762972.

www.ebay.com

CTIS Control Panel Pneumatic Tire Inflation Spicer Dana 1mvz1-673990 | eBay

CTIS Control Panel Pneumatic Tire Inflation Spicer Dana 1mvz1-673990 . Condition is Used. Shipped with UPS Ground.

www.ebay.com

There's TONS of them on the market. Too many for them to command a huge price.

I think the Arduino unit is like $400? Not sure on that. But you definitely can't buy two of them for half the price of the Dana/Spicer/Eaton units.

The Arduino is $225 shipped I think.

 

[hike]

The Arduino is $225 shipped I think.

When I last spoke with @Plasa an Arduino prototype $320 including shipping to the US–

 

[hike]

I always wondered why my newer black box Dana/Spicer controller would always flash "overspeed" on my A0 dash when my original Green controller (which has broken buttons) would not.
I have to check my wiring, but are you suggesting that a wiring change could make this overspeed go away in addition to increasing HWY pressure?

Thanks in advance

I doubt the overspeed as @Ronmar stated, because of the lack of electronic sensors on the A0. All I am suggesting is based on @GeneralDisorder statement that many programs exist, and I read, residing in the newer ECU's; that by changing the way power and ground are applied may access other programs. On the M939A2 ECU we purchased it stated on the back HWY: OTHERS 70 and WRECKER 80. That implies if the right conditions are present different programs using different pressures may be available. Looking at the schematic of what is supplied in an M939 I am wondering if modifying the pins supplying power will open those other programs.



No idea until I do–

 

[Tortuga]

I doubt the overspeed as @Ronmar stated, because of the lack of electronic sensors on the A0. All I am suggesting is based on @GeneralDisorder statement that many programs exist, and I read, residing in the newer ECU's; that by changing the way power and ground are applied may access other programs. On the M939A2 ECU we purchased it stated on the back HWY: OTHERS 70 and WRECKER 80. That implies if the right conditions are present different programs using different pressures may be available. Looking at the schematic of what is supplied in an M939 I am wondering if modifying the pins supplying power will open those other programs.

View attachment 906757

No idea until I do–

I guess I misunderstood whether the different programs resided in the controller or in the ecu of later model trucks. I thought read general saying the higher psi would work on A0 trucks as well. As far as the over speed I guess that was wishful thinking.

 

[Ronmar]

Well I suspect that a different pressure program would indeed have different overspeed points, but i think you having an overspeed issue with a newer model controller in an older truck(yours is an A0?) would probably be related to the differences in pulse per mile input. I believe it is a fixed output from the transmission/TCU, and it is a controllable output that can be changed in the ECU on the 3126/C7 engines…

 

[GeneralDisorder]

You can modify the PPM from the transmission to suit the CTIS controller with one of these:

SGI-100BT: Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface

Dakota Digital manufactures digital instrumentation and accessories for the automotive, motorcycle and car audio enthusiast.

www.dakotadigital.com

 

[hike]

I guess I misunderstood whether the different programs resided in the controller or in the ecu of later model trucks. I thought read general saying the higher psi would work on A0 trucks as well. As far as the over speed I guess that was wishful thinking.

I don't know for sure: I gleen from several sources, including @Ronmar and @GeneralDisorder, these pieces:
1— CAT 3116 lacks electronic controls and data the CAT 3126 and CAT C7 engines have;
2— units with CAT 3116 use analog pulse per mile (PPM) speed signal, while CAT3126 and CAT C7 use a digital speed signal;
A— older (green) CTIS ECU's do not support J1939 scanning and reprogramming;
B— wiring harnesses in A0, A1, and A1R units are similar, though not the same, (and may have changes between early A1 and later A1 units, especially);
C— wiring harnesses for different M units (939, 1078, 1085, etcetera) are similar, though not the same, (wrecker is different from troop carrier, etcetera);
D— later (black) ECU units may have (9?) different programs pre programmed for each wiring harness variant.

This suggests learning the different inputs to the newer ECU's from each unit could offer a way to wire switching to use the different programs in any vehicle without reprogramming; though A0 units would need a separate fix to solve the overspeed issue in any case.

Connection to CTIS ECU in our 2003 M1078
—

H and M provide power, F is ground, to our ECU labeled for an M939A2, resulting in a program providing 55psi when the HWY mode is selected. Looking at the schematic for the M939A2 suggests providing another combination of power and ground on F, H, V, X, and/or Z, suggests a program providing 70psi and 80psi may be available.



Hopefully, we will learn from those who know more and share what we learn as we try switching up the power and ground sources our selves—

 

[Wingnut13]

Sounds like a good place to repurpose an old school rotary switch to enable functionality between programs. That way it would break power before restoration to the selected circuit. I’m sure someone will come up with a much cooler solution.

 

[aw113sgte]

I have an MTV and disconnected M wire only. Now goes to 82 psi hwy(using a very cheap pressure gauge).
Problem is, now when I turn off the truck the quick release valves open on the front axle and the rear most axle. My front right tire goes down to 50 psi and my rear right tire goes down to 55. So now I need to figure that out. Front right was just rebuilt with new CTIS seals and valve / o-rings for the hose.

 

[hike]

I have an MTV and disconnected M wire only. Now goes to 82 psi hwy(using a very cheap pressure gauge).
Problem is, now when I turn off the truck the quick release valves open on the front axle and the rear most axle. My front right tire goes down to 50 psi and my rear right tire goes down to 55. So now I need to figure that out. Front right was just rebuilt with new CTIS seals and valve / o-rings for the hose.

Do you have a photo of the unit number? Or can confirm only 'H' is supplying?

 

[aw113sgte]

Do you have a photo of the unit number? Or can confirm only 'H' is supplying?

Please clarify your question.
There are 3 1911 wires in my truck, I had to cut them check since they are all connected. I have the "first gen" of the black controller, that I got off eBay.

 

[Ronmar]

Well the quick release valves don't “open” they are pressure regulators. They match the output port(tire side) to whatever pressure is applied on the input(PCU side). it does this by passing air from the input port to the output port if that pressure is greater, or venting output port air to the vent horn if the output pressure is greater than the input pressure. The only air that can exit thru the vent port comes from the tires, so if you are noticing tires leaking down it is getting past the wheel valves.

This can happen several ways. Simply leaking past the wheel valve. A restriction on the line between wheel valve and dump valve might cause the truck side of the wheel valve to not vent cleanly to 0 PSI to allow the wheel valve to seal properly. I have seen regular bolts put in place of the banjo bolt cause this, and hold the wheel valve open to slowly leak the tire air away.

an easy way to check the wheel valve is to disconnect the banjo on the wheel and tape a rubber glove over the entire banjo hose end fitting. If it inflates, the wheel valve is leaking past…

 

[aw113sgte]

Well the quick release valves don't “open” they are pressure regulators. They match the output port(tire side) to whatever pressure is applied on the input(PCU side). it does this by passing air from the input port to the output port if that pressure is greater, or venting output port air to the vent horn if the output pressure is greater than the input pressure. The only air that can exit thru the vent port comes from the tires, so if you are noticing tires leaking down it is getting past the wheel valves.

This can happen several ways. Simply leaking past the wheel valve. A restriction on the line between wheel valve and dump valve might cause the truck side of the wheel valve to not vent cleanly to 0 PSI to allow the wheel valve to seal properly. I have seen regular bolts put in place of the banjo bolt cause this, and hold the wheel valve open to slowly leak the tire air away.

an easy way to check the wheel valve is to disconnect the banjo on the wheel and tape a rubber glove over the entire banjo hose end fitting. If it inflates, the wheel valve is leaking past…

This issue only occured at the increase of pressure to 80+psi with CTIS. At 50ish it wasn't doing it. When in stable state (not bleeding out qrv) all tires hold pressure (after rebuild on 2 that were leaking). Seems like a wheel valve(or two) aren't closing well (aire flow out it pretty fast till about 50 psi)

I wonder if the non rebuilt valves could be causing the issue? They have slight leaks from corrosion but the one of the tires that is loosing pressure if the rebuilt one and it has no bubbles now.