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Or create a virtual Windows 7 machine on a Linux box and start looking for the cabling to connect to that round plug–
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Doubt that would work without a LOT of effort. A lot of this software is cracked and relies on direct hardware access and has problems working even under actual windows machines. It's flaky and difficult to get to work under the best conditions. It you have all the time in the world to devote to it then I'm sure it would be possible. But for a laptop you are going to toss in the cargo space and probably have to hook up to an inverter because the battery has died in the months you haven't needed it...... it's just not worth the effort to avoid using actual Windows 7. I mean..... why?!? Because of some Microsoft hate? Literally everything in our daily lives including all the parts on these trucks is made by a soulless corpo entity that profits off the suffering of wage slaves, rampant consumerism and/or our $842 billion defense budget. Capitalism gave you all that stuff. Microsoft happens to be good at capitalism. I just really don't see the need to make my job harder by trying to reinvent the wheel - it works and it's free and it will never be connected to a network of any kind EVER (I removed the wifi daughter board from my "FMTV diagnostic and programming" laptop). In this case the path of least resistance has no drawbacks other than whatever mental blocks you impose upon it. That's just time I can spend doing something constructive or enjoyable.Or create a virtual Windows 7 machine on a Linux box and start looking for the cabling to connect to that round plug–
This is good work. I love it. This is the kind of stuff that slowly comes out over many years, decades even, before the issues and fixes for a particular line of vehicles is well understood.Well this is going to make a few people (including myself) feel really silly......
I've been getting pretty deep into a CTIS diag on a friends truck and had the occasion to swap modules between my truck and his, and vice-versa. And I've been going over documentation and troubleshooting info and discovered something that's going to make a lot of you guys really happy and possibly regret one or more purchases.
First off - the Dana/Spicer CTIS controller used in the FMTV family does indeed contain multiple "programs". In fact the controller actually contains NINE different programs. These are accessed through all the various possible combinations of power, ground, and open circuit on pins M and Z of the CTIS controller connector (P110 on the schematic). The various FMTV schematics aren't always clear on this point - many of them show both of them having power, and some actually do show "MTV Only" on pin Z. From looking at my 2008 M1079 A1R compared to the 2001 M1088 A1 we can say that in these two examples the 4x4 truck has 24v fed to pin M and Z is not populated, and the 6x6 truck is the opposite - pin Z has 24v and M is non pinned.
The wiring on the truck determines which programming the controller runs when powered on. But there are actually 9 different programs - the FMTV's are only using 2 of them.
My apologies to Ronmar who suggested this may the case and I dismissed the possibility since the software makes NO mention of this nor does it allow access to any of the settings for other programs. You have to switch the wiring and reconnect the software.
The implications of this are:
A: Installing a controller from a 6x6 truck into a 4x4 truck will do exactly nothing on it's own.
B: Fooling the controller with an Amazon transducer isn't necessary - your controller already has higher pressure settings. Also this throws off the controllers atmospheric pressure reading.
Now since there are nine programs the two being used by our various trucks are +24v on M/open on Z or open on M/+24v on Z - there are 7 more programs that are just unused. What's on them? Well I haven't checked them all, but on my truck I did cut the power to pin M (so open circuit on both option pins), and the program it loaded is identical to the 6x6 default program.
So to get M1088 pressure settings on your LMTV or other truck with 55 psi highway mode, you can just cut the 1911 wire going to pin M at the controller connector. That's it. No other modifications required.
We verified that my 4x4 controller went to 81 psi highway on the M1088 harness, and also that the (green 2001 controller) went to 55 psi highway on my M1079 harness. So at least the A1+ trucks seem to conform to this.
*EDIT* - I have read in several threads that A0 trucks will work with A1+ controllers but the pressure settings and overspeeds are wrong. Likely a result of different programming selection via harness and different speed sensor settings since the A0 trucks are using the transmission speed sensors rather than the CAT ECM pulse per mile information. But with the right information it would be trivial to program a later CTIS module to work on the A0. @Lostchain and I have discussed setting up a full CTIS test bench so could easily program whatever into controllers if needed...... *EDIT*
Here's the default settings for the LMTV controller (except for my 90 mph highway overspeed setting):
View attachment 906056
View attachment 906057
And here's the program for both option pins open circuit:
View attachment 906058
View attachment 906059
Second point - with this information it's relatively easy to install a toggle switch to switch pin M or Z from +24v to open circuit or to ground and get easy access to 3 of the 9 programs. And with the right software and adapter you can program the pressure settings in each of those programs and have 12 different pressure settings available. There is a CTIS OFF indicator lamp in the dash and provision on the truck for a switch used in the optional arctic kit for toggling power to the controller - this is easy to wire in and can be used to cycle power and thus switch programs while driving. I haven't yet tested if the controller will switch programs on the fly or not and I'm not sure that's a good idea to recommend anyway - if it works it may not work on all of them - there's quite a few generations of the controller - green and black and of the black units there are variations - older black units will not coms with J1939 for example while newer ones will........
Life is full of choices. As a commercial real estate broker and developer I am well versed with capitalism's soullessness. I appreciate your help, knowledge shared, and graciousness in the face of my glib response—Doubt that would work without a LOT of effort. A lot of this software is cracked and relies on direct hardware access and has problems working even under actual windows machines. It's flaky and difficult to get to work under the best conditions. It you have all the time in the world to devote to it then I'm sure it would be possible. But for a laptop you are going to toss in the cargo space and probably have to hook up to an inverter because the battery has died in the months you haven't needed it...... it's just not worth the effort to avoid using actual Windows 7. I mean..... why?!? Because of some Microsoft hate? Literally everything in our daily lives including all the parts on these trucks is made by a soulless corpo entity that profits off the suffering of wage slaves, rampant consumerism and/or our $842 billion defense budget. Capitalism gave you all that stuff. Microsoft happens to be good at capitalism. I just really don't see the need to make my job harder by trying to reinvent the wheel - it works and it's free and it will never be connected to a network of any kind EVER (I removed the wifi daughter board from my "FMTV diagnostic and programming" laptop). In this case the path of least resistance has no drawbacks other than whatever mental blocks you impose upon it. That's just time I can spend doing something constructive or enjoyable.
It probably wont fix the overspeed...I always wondered why my newer black box Dana/Spicer controller would always flash "overspeed" on my A0 dash when my original Green controller (which has broken buttons) would not.
I have to check my wiring, but are you suggesting that a wiring change could make this overspeed go away in addition to increasing HWY pressure?
Thanks in advance
The Arduino is $225 shipped I think.Not really, no. You can find the Dana controllers brand new for like $600 to $700. And used one's are $100 to $200 and will continue to land on the surplus market for decades in both new and used form. With the free software, an RP1210 adapter that you should probably have anyway if you have an A1+ truck, and a $100 laptop you can program them and diagnose with them.
How many of the Arduino units have been created? A few hundred maybe? The Dana unit has been built in the millions of units. Between military and industrial applications. spares, and 30 years of manufacturing. MILLIONS of them.
New:
CTIS Tire Pressure Control Mrap M939 FMTV LMTV 676422 6110-01-268-8739 | eBay
For sale is a New Dana Spicer/International CTIS system. The part number is 676422. The NSN number is 6110-01-268-8739 Here are the specs HUES Color Black.www.ebay.com
Used:
m939a2 ctis controller m923a2 m936a2 m939 m923 m934a2 m931a2 | eBay
The colors will be green. Buttons will have wear and tear and will be faded from age. We also have other take off CTIS Parts and have any 5 ton Parts you may need for your m939. We are solely focused on 5 tons let us know where we can help you- Jim 5076762972.www.ebay.com
CTIS Control Panel Pneumatic Tire Inflation Spicer Dana 1mvz1-673990 | eBay
CTIS Control Panel Pneumatic Tire Inflation Spicer Dana 1mvz1-673990 . Condition is Used. Shipped with UPS Ground.www.ebay.com
There's TONS of them on the market. Too many for them to command a huge price.
I think the Arduino unit is like $400? Not sure on that. But you definitely can't buy two of them for half the price of the Dana/Spicer/Eaton units.
When I last spoke with @Plasa an Arduino prototype $320 including shipping to the US–The Arduino is $225 shipped I think.
I doubt the overspeed as @Ronmar stated, because of the lack of electronic sensors on the A0. All I am suggesting is based on @GeneralDisorder statement that many programs exist, and I read, residing in the newer ECU's; that by changing the way power and ground are applied may access other programs. On the M939A2 ECU we purchased it stated on the back HWY: OTHERS 70 and WRECKER 80. That implies if the right conditions are present different programs using different pressures may be available. Looking at the schematic of what is supplied in an M939 I am wondering if modifying the pins supplying power will open those other programs.I always wondered why my newer black box Dana/Spicer controller would always flash "overspeed" on my A0 dash when my original Green controller (which has broken buttons) would not.
I have to check my wiring, but are you suggesting that a wiring change could make this overspeed go away in addition to increasing HWY pressure?
Thanks in advance
I guess I misunderstood whether the different programs resided in the controller or in the ecu of later model trucks. I thought read general saying the higher psi would work on A0 trucks as well. As far as the over speed I guess that was wishful thinking.I doubt the overspeed as @Ronmar stated, because of the lack of electronic sensors on the A0. All I am suggesting is based on @GeneralDisorder statement that many programs exist, and I read, residing in the newer ECU's; that by changing the way power and ground are applied may access other programs. On the M939A2 ECU we purchased it stated on the back HWY: OTHERS 70 and WRECKER 80. That implies if the right conditions are present different programs using different pressures may be available. Looking at the schematic of what is supplied in an M939 I am wondering if modifying the pins supplying power will open those other programs.
View attachment 906757
No idea until I do–
I don't know for sure: I gleen from several sources, including @Ronmar and @GeneralDisorder, these pieces:I guess I misunderstood whether the different programs resided in the controller or in the ecu of later model trucks. I thought read general saying the higher psi would work on A0 trucks as well. As far as the over speed I guess that was wishful thinking.
Do you have a photo of the unit number? Or can confirm only 'H' is supplying?I have an MTV and disconnected M wire only. Now goes to 82 psi hwy(using a very cheap pressure gauge).
Problem is, now when I turn off the truck the quick release valves open on the front axle and the rear most axle. My front right tire goes down to 50 psi and my rear right tire goes down to 55. So now I need to figure that out. Front right was just rebuilt with new CTIS seals and valve / o-rings for the hose.
Please clarify your question.Do you have a photo of the unit number? Or can confirm only 'H' is supplying?
This issue only occured at the increase of pressure to 80+psi with CTIS. At 50ish it wasn't doing it. When in stable state (not bleeding out qrv) all tires hold pressure (after rebuild on 2 that were leaking). Seems like a wheel valve(or two) aren't closing well (aire flow out it pretty fast till about 50 psi)Well the quick release valves don't “open” they are pressure regulators. They match the output port(tire side) to whatever pressure is applied on the input(PCU side). it does this by passing air from the input port to the output port if that pressure is greater, or venting output port air to the vent horn if the output pressure is greater than the input pressure. The only air that can exit thru the vent port comes from the tires, so if you are noticing tires leaking down it is getting past the wheel valves.
This can happen several ways. Simply leaking past the wheel valve. A restriction on the line between wheel valve and dump valve might cause the truck side of the wheel valve to not vent cleanly to 0 PSI to allow the wheel valve to seal properly. I have seen regular bolts put in place of the banjo bolt cause this, and hold the wheel valve open to slowly leak the tire air away.
an easy way to check the wheel valve is to disconnect the banjo on the wheel and tape a rubber glove over the entire banjo hose end fitting. If it inflates, the wheel valve is leaking past…
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