• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

Another Ahab

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,993
4,538
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
rtrask said:
Wow that looks like hard digging. No pictures of the front end loader lifting that load. I am in South Central Colorado (San Luis Valley) and realize how lucky I was with volcanic ash to dig.
Click to expand...
Cool. That's a fun fact.

Hiked the San Juan Range with a buddy decades ago as a young buck. Beautiful country.

Is that Valley in the same general area? Meaning that those mountains are volcanic instead of "thrust"-made, like the rest of the Rockies?
 
D

Davestaco

New member
12
25
3
Location
Colorado
glcaines said:
The hydraulic tools on the FLU419 are made by Stanley Infrastructure. You undoubtedly have a Stanley Infrastructure dealer near you in Colorado. If not, I have purchased repair parts from the following dealer in Georgia.

Southeast Railroad Tool Service
2504 Tails Creek Rd
Ellijay Georgia 30540
(706) 698-3489
They are only about a two-hour drive from me, but when I need something I order via telephone and they ship to me. Their prices have been reasonable for what I've needed and when they don't have something in stock it has only taken 2-3 days to get the part. They may be able to give you the name of a Stanley dealer near you but I'm sure they can probably help you directly. They have been great to work with. They can also repair the tools.
Click to expand...
Thank you! I will give them a shout.
 
D

Davestaco

New member
12
25
3
Location
Colorado
rtrask said:
Wow that looks like hard digging. No pictures of the front end loader lifting that load. I am in South Central Colorado (San Luis Valley) and realize how lucky I was with volcanic ash to dig.
Click to expand...
I didn't get a pic of it lifting. It definitely was the max that it can lift. A Bagster full hanging off the bucket teeth will lift the rear wheels off the ground without ballast of the backhoe.
 
rtrask

rtrask

Well-known member
342
251
63
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
Another Ahab said:
Cool. That's a fun fact.

Hiked the San Juan Range with a buddy decades ago as a young buck. Beautiful country.

Is that Valley in the same general area? Meaning that those mountains are volcanic instead of "thrust"-made, like the rest of the Rockies?
Click to expand...
Yep, I can see the San Juan's out my back window. The front window faces the Sangre de Cristos

There was a huge volcano called La Garita on the Southwest end of the valley. The La Garita eruption was over 10,000 times as violent as Mt. St. Helens… La Garita blew out 1,500 cubic miles of rock and ash, nearly three times the amount from Yellowstone.
 
Last edited:
glcaines

glcaines

Well-known member
3,912
2,586
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
I need some 001-544-53-94-MBZ light bulbs for my FLU419. These are the bulbs that go in the display showing PTO, air, etc. status. Expedition Imports, Pelican, et al don't carry them anymore. These are 24VDC 5 watt. Does anyone know where these might be purchased? European source?
 
The FLU farm

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I wouldn't be surprised if you could buy them on Amazon.

And speaking of surprised. Today I took another stab at figuring out why the Winter SEE hasn't started for well over a year...as in won't even make a click when hitting the starter button.

Had already verified that it most likely was an issue with positive, not ground. Had a varying voltage of around 12-14 when checking the starter switch lead and at the solenoid. Looked in the trouble shooting section yesterday evening, made some notes, and decided that since I checked the fuse last year, lets start from the back of the many pages.

Put a basic rocker switch on the starter button wires (had used those as a measuring point), pushed in the clutch as I put the test light on the starter connection to get a reading from the last point in the long chain - and it fired right up.

Put the connectors back on the original starter switch, anticipating having to change it out, and it started again. And again. This was so encouraging that I decided to check other stuff.

Found that the right rear blinker/brake light doesn't work. Doesn't matter to me. But the front LED work lights didn't, and that is not good. That the rear LED work light also doesn't work is okay, but now I'm enthused enough to spend a bit of time to make it all function. Just because.
 
rtrask

rtrask

Well-known member
342
251
63
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
glcaines said:
I need some 001-544-53-94-MBZ light bulbs for my FLU419. These are the bulbs that go in the display showing PTO, air, etc. status. Expedition Imports, Pelican, et al don't carry them anymore. These are 24VDC 5 watt. Does anyone know where these might be purchased? European source?
Click to expand...
I replaced mine with some LED ones. they are easy enough to find, just be sure to search for 24 volt ones. I think I got them off Amazon. I will search for a link.
 
rtrask

rtrask

Well-known member
342
251
63
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
glcaines said:
I need some 001-544-53-94-MBZ light bulbs for my FLU419. These are the bulbs that go in the display showing PTO, air, etc. status. Expedition Imports, Pelican, et al don't carry them anymore. These are 24VDC 5 watt. Does anyone know where these might be purchased? European source?
Click to expand...
Take a look at these. T3 bulbs, I think the key is T3 bulbs, you can reuse the holder that clicks into the instrument panel. Double check all of this, because I am just going by memory.
 
P

Pinsandpitons

Active member
162
54
28
Location
Central Washington
Just my .02 about LED bulbs. They are not worth the trouble or money in low power indicator type circuits. Instrument cluster and the like. The standard incandescent are really durable and last a very long time. My experience with led ba9 and ba7 and 194s and such is they flicker and stop working easy. Only my opinion, your mileage may vary, it's a free country, etc.
 
glcaines

glcaines

Well-known member
3,912
2,586
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
Pinsandpitons said:
Just my .02 about LED bulbs. They are not worth the trouble or money in low power indicator type circuits. Instrument cluster and the like. The standard incandescent are really durable and last a very long time. My experience with led ba9 and ba7 and 194s and such is they flicker and stop working easy. Only my opinion, your mileage may vary, it's a free country, etc.
Click to expand...
You may be correct, but it is a moot point when there are no incandescent versions of BA7s bulbs available.
 
rtrask

rtrask

Well-known member
342
251
63
Location
San Luis Valley, Colorado
Pinsandpitons said:
Just my .02 about LED bulbs. They are not worth the trouble or money in low power indicator type circuits. Instrument cluster and the like. The standard incandescent are really durable and last a very long time. My experience with led ba9 and ba7 and 194s and such is they flicker and stop working easy. Only my opinion, your mileage may vary, it's a free country, etc.
Click to expand...
I have issues with my indicator lights flickering and the like, but I think my issue is a faulty ground.
 
glcaines

glcaines

Well-known member
3,912
2,586
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
The originals are BA7s 24V 1.5 watt. That spec is what I couldn't find. I talked with Expedition Imports and Mercedes and they told me that they weren't made anymore. I found some online and ordered them, but the company cancelled the order when they couldn't obtain them. You can definitely buy BA7s bulbs in different wattages and voltages. BA7s bulbs are very popular in Europe. However, I was told that if I use lower wattage bulbs that they didn't put out much light and the plastic cover really diminished the results. Mercedes warned me that the higher wattage bulbs tended to melt the plastic due to the heat. I'll try the LED bulbs which should be bright enough and not put out much heat.
EDIT: I screwed up with the LED bulbs. I forgot that LEDs are polarity sensitive. The bulbs in the warning lamps on the FLU419 get +24VDC through the base and ground through the contact on the end. LEDs won't work in that application.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
110,706members
165,193threads
2,324,410posts
1,217online users
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks