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Also as far as brake conversions, going to surge brakes would be much cheaper.

Load it all on a known good trailer with brakes. Typical 7000lb car trailer would do nicely.

I think your truck is on duals with tubes in them? If so likely a rotten tube failed, around the valve stem is the place where leaking tubes typically vent. I actually had a sidewall on my singles blow out while sitting in my garage, not having moved in over a week.

Very common problem with the stock junk... pm @74M35A2 and see if he is still selling civilian alternator conversions. Not cheap, but good stuff!

It should already have seat belts. I believe @fuzzytoaster has some replacements if not.

You don’t have to remove the cage bolts to determine if the system holds air. Charge the trailer, if your not blowing air, pull the bolts. It’s a lot quicker and easier uncaging/caging the cambers with air on them.

Not if done properly, depending on crane size.

How big of a crane are you thinking? My bed dumps, and my crane just anchors in the bed itself with no issues. See post #74 of this thread.

Buffalo bagels!!! I’ll be out of town, loosing my mind missing two years in a row!

Now that we are done thoroughly attacking your rust issue... with that I would bet you have some grounding issues. I know nothing about these split electrical systems whatsoever, or what this “ford style” relay is used for. I would start by running a separate ground to it from the appropriate...

Preferably both. Put your dually in the front for a good size emergency wheel chock, or tow vehicle only if the 5 ton dies. Then something else with bright, working tail/brake lights in the rear. Slow moving vehicle triangle probably wouldn’t hurt either.

Get some 20 inch, 8 on 170 steelies and run two of your Sand Trails in the back if you still have them.

Never been, but very interested, especially if any of the Cincy area SS would be taking their big trucks up as well.

Oh, and $1500 “should” be a steal!

There where a bunch of them around, people couldn’t hardly give them away. Drivers doors should be plentiful as well.

I would only buy enough for one axle to start, then start going through the truck one axle at a time inspecting and replacing only what needs it. Wheel cylinders I could see replacing just because, however wouldn’t spend money on bearings without inspecting them first, but I’m cheap...

You remove the cap behind the shutoff to access the springs. Plenty of info on the google, same adjustment and spring kits used in a p-pump