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Wireless would be great mainly to get the operator away from the tires. Knew a guy years ago that ran over himself with a steerable dolly hauling a 100+ ton prestressed concrete bridge beam. Ended his life and haunted the truck driver as well, he never was right after that. Wish I had pictures...

My bets on a leak. Spray a thick mix of soap water on the wheel valves, especially the rears where they connect onto the adapters. Did you try hitting the runflat button to see if it will continue to try inflating?

Sounds as if you already know your answer but I’ll bite. I’m with sue, and Daybreak. $70 for the noco genius g7200, does 12 and 24, float thru your slave, yank it out and throw it on the floor when the truck has to go out, use it on 12v to balance the batteries individually every once and a...

Except the transmission... Running hills that pull you down to first gear, watch your transmission temps at 40,000lb+ gross weight. You may have to go down to low range with the transfercase if your hills and road conditions are as bad as I suspect. Also don’t lug the engine, keep it cranking...

If you have an a2 that hasn’t had the accelerator linkage MWO, and you can find the kit it’s well worth a few $ to ease that gnarly stiff pedal.

Our place in Texas fell through, so I’m looking for a place to take the boy out on a fishing charter and also hunt some meat hogs for spring break (3rd week in March). If I can get something lined up I may be able to haul it down to you, if that’s not to late, and I could leave the trailer with...

Wheres Doghead when you need him? Found it for you!I’ve always assumed the pump was the limiting factor on the speed. I’ve inadvertently went over 1800 several times and it does get quite a bit louder, quickly. We had a discussion on here somewhere and I think it was Tobys figured out the pto...

The wheels would have to spin free/quickly, to allow the pto to turn.

Also pulls 62.5 hp, full load, at the pump rated max of 2700rpm. I can’t remember the pto ratio but I’m thinking at the maximum 1800rpm engine speed while operating the winch, the pump probably runs at 2700?

The pump is rated at 27gpm and 3000psi max. However the control valve needs to be set to bypass at 1750psi +_ 150 to keep from overloading and breaking the winch.

Canadian deuce, now there’s an idea! Don’t they have a lot more desirables than just the heater and bumper over the US version? And closer to Alaska, wonder what kind of import issues you’d encounter?

The cheap 24v to 12v, 10a buck converters I bought had two grounds, (ran both to the same chassis ground stud) red wire was 24v input, and yellow wire was 12v out. If you grounding under the dash, connect the test light ground to the same place and probe your power, or positive on a battery to...

What are the led’s your installing for, tail lights, head lights, marker lights, interior lights?

Your edit is correct. So if you’re stuck and able to spin the tires, you can power the winch at the same time, if the winch doesn’t have enough power, and/or you don’t have a snatch block. Low range, first gear work’s best for trying to keep everything in check, and not birds-nest the cable.

Be a lot easier getting pics with the engine and trans hanging from the forklift[emoji6] Just sayin...

It’s best to put a snubber in there before your gauge to control the pressure surge and needle bounce.

You pulling straight from a jug of fuel into the lift pump?

That doesn’t sound good. Maybe pump the primer with the overflow out, and see if a bunch of junk comes out the galley. If so you’re probably out of my league, hopefully Will Wagner will chime in before you pull the IP. Did you try cracking the injector lines to see if you where getting fuel out?

"Freightliner Kick-off Low Air Switch" - FSC-1749-1907 for $8 on ebay, going to give it a shot to replace mine that is leaking. Thanks Floridianson!!!

Tie the fuel shut off back, hold throttle wide open and try. Did you end up replacing the overflow valve also?