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Uh oh, now I'm lost again lol. Different brands of coolant require different types of test strips for SCA levels?

Yes Sir sounds good. The coolant-concentrate I bought from Napa is SCA pre-charged, but not sure how to test I have the correct levels? Could I also just use a SCA charged filter to maintain the levels, (post coolant-filter install), or should I just add some of the SCA liquid after so many...

The coolant concentrate I bought from Napa (SCA pre-charged) was blue, or, it's a weird kind of purple lol.

The concentrate I bought was SCA pre-charged, but would like to monitor it as you mentioned. Is there an additive of just SCA I could add if I wanted to increase the PPM? Or do I have to drain some coolant out and mix the concentrate at a higher ratio? Also, what product would you recommend to...

This is all just informational, the first "drain" was a total loss of coolant because I had to remove the lower hard-pipe section where the radiator connects to and where it goes into the transmission oil cooler, that was for changing out that leaking hose behind the alternator, so I wasn't able...

Yes Sir I was able to burb it and then added more coolant/anti-freeze to get it to the correct (final) level. Running at 185' now steadily.

Thanks for the info, I'm going to have to continue to monitor the system over the winter time. The water coming out of the block was super clean after the drain and flushes, I didn't use any acid and thought the corrosion inhibitors in the concentrate would work. The first drain the water wasn't...

That's a negative on the oil contamination, no presence or evidence of oil in any of the drains. Can you further explain what would constitute as corrosion? On the first couple of drains the water was coming out murky, but not like any chunks or flakes of rust, very small and very fine particles...

I know it's a little pricey, but, heard good things about this too (along with the TranSynd) was leaning going this direction myself:

Coolant drain and flush is going really well so far, almost done. On the initial drain, it was very cloudy so instead of doing just distilled water I used garden-hose (city-provided utility) water. I flushed the system 5+ times, filling then running to temp (also taking on the road), and then...

This is the route I'm going, choosing this over the Zerex 50/50 mix because when using the concentrate it will be cheaper buying 1-gallon distilled waters and adding it to the system. 48 qts = 12 gallons, so buying 6 of these (actually 8 to have extra) and then going to add 6 gallons of...

What do you consider to be an older diesel engine? You mean older model like the NHC250 vs 6CTA8.3? Or older as in operational hours / total age in years?

This look like it already has the SCA's added, bc it talks about liner pitting, which through some reading, is the 8.3's downfall because it is more susceptible to cavitation (via the coolant barrier) because the cylinders have removable liners instead of being solid-bored. There is also a...

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That's a really good idea, thanks for the hint. Did your EGT probe come with a tap? Or are they 1/8"NPT? Just trying to get prepared. What gauge did you go with too? Still shopping around for that and the probe...

Just got the block heater in a few days ago, (super easy, it was cake), but now have to do a fill-and-flush with distilled water. Then... going to research more on the best fluid to use as a final-refill, as it is "clear as mud" so to speak on what setup is ideal. Probably going the route of "1...

Question about this, I know I'm bumping an old-thread. How does this work if your engine has a turbo? How do you stop the metal shavings from the drilling and tapping from going down and into the turbo?

Do you have the turbo'd or non-turbo engine? (A2 Truck or A0/A1 Truck)? Following because my Tach isn't working as well.

*cue sad violin music*

This might seem like a dumb question, but, how do you have a coolant filter? Maybe I'm missing something in the engine bay lol.