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OK my SKF/CR 29927 seal came in today, for the record it the most expensive and biggest seal I've gotten to date. I went ( as advised ) with the Fluorinated seal which will not only hold up better but I'm also thinking it will probably help prevent cavities :roll:

OR!! You could get all your bolts cad plated :mrgreen: I painted my 37 when it was ALL apart, seemed alot easier.

Very impressive setup there Islandguy I've got a Xantrex 813-5000-UL on backorder from Amazon for the last 4 months, hopefully one day it'll get here

After about a year of looking I finally found a guy not 50 miles from me that said he had 5 green vinyl cargo covers for the deuce, turned out all 5 were for 5 tons, He than said he had 2 green canvas ones which were for a deuce and I settled for one of those ( $300 ). Even though I wanted...

17-18ftlbs is correct I changed out injectors on my first mep-003a and back then ( before I got manuals ) the injector guy told me that the standard is usually about 15-18ft/lbs for all injectors in general, of course I did not believe him and started to put them on tighter towhich I noticed...

Ha! I went almost 2 years before realizing that I had way to much money in our savings account so I went and bought another Deuce to fix that problem and so far that plan has been working out just perfect aua

819 with all of my posts that you've responded to or thanked in the past you still don't know what truck/engine I have...sheesh! For anyone else I have a M-35"A2" Clinto thanks [thumbzup]

Doing a search I've found several replacement rear seal #'s, the CR 49928 seems to be the common one and then there's the super seal CR 49927 and then theres the Timken 39801 which I believe also comes with a sleeve., So I'm curious what you guys like...AND!...did you reuse your flywheel bolts...

OK started spilling out oil from the rear seal coming back from Memorial parade Monday. My dipstick shows about a qt more oil ( plus what oil trail I left behind ) then I remember seeing before so I'm thinking since the fdc is already bypassed then it must be the o-rings on the hyd head...

The 500 will be a little busy for your application, a 900 or 1000 series would be better suited for these trucks as far as handling flow rate. I would use the 30mic (P) filter

Looks like a 2/3 2/4's had added on armor plates

I believe "D" as in D model engine ( non whisler ) We'll be waiting for pictures [thumbzup]

oops sorry you said you needed sheets not discs...Nothing to see here :oops:

You could try and rebuild the master cyl and the wheel cyls. ( hone them out first and check for pits before buying parts ) The part# for the napa wheel cyl kits is #6 and the master cyl kit is NAPA part# 1. If you decide to just buy new than the wheel cyls are 3595 ( drivers side ) and 3596 (...

OK You have a 20' trailer ( 16 + 4 ) I have a 16' ( 14 + 2 ) and thought no way when I read your header. Heck, my 37 barely fit on my 16'

Welcome CUCV's make great WORK trucks!, guys here bought them and have been WORKING on them ever since :mrgreen:

If your rebuild kit came with the one piece needle than the float adjustment specs for the napa needle will be the same as the rebuild kit needle. You can use both the needle and seat or just the needle, if I remember correctly ( 14yrs ago ) I used both. The viton tipped needle worked so nice...

Sure Follow the instuctions on page 39 in the TM 9-1840A rebuild manual [thumbzup]. Taking it off is easy alignment of dist and timing is a bit involved when you go and reinstall it

Yes ( but would have to use a different float level adjustment if you go and use the old 3 piece ) If you have the solid steel tipped needle throw it out and buy the one piece viton tipped needle kit from NAPA, the part# for the kit that will fit the ETW1 is 2-3516...