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The M-56 series were factory Cab chassis models that different bodies were put on by outside contractors after they were delivered. ( ie R-2 crash trucks, contact maint, MB-2 fire truck,etc etc )
( M-35 cab chassis only were known as M-45's )
Put her outside in the sun and it'll cure faster.
This is one reason why I like to use a hardener, I was able to sand and reshoot the door on my deuce within one day of painting it
The guy who sold me my WC-21 made some repro "King Bee" marble reflectors but stopped doing it years ago. these were used on most pre 1940 trucks ( mil & Civie ) so someone somewhere has got to be making them ( Try also using "King Bee marble" as a search )
I bought mine at Memphis ( around $25 ) as mentioned you have to call and ask. I also used Permatex ultra black gasket sealer/maker just to piss off the next guy who pulls the pan :mrgreen:
For deuce/truck painting I prefer a remote gun ( pressure pot ) Professional HVLP Spray Gun Kit
however as far as the HF gravity feed gun goes, I painted
my daughters VW with one and was very happy with the results,with that being said my deuce took 7gals whereas my daughters car took only 3qts...
A friend of mine got pulled over by DOT while driving a fuel truck and the officer had him pump the brakes till the air pressure got low enough the set off the buzzer ( key on engine off ), He said if that buzzer hadn't of come on than he would have gotten a ticket. I got pulled over in my...
As mentioned the NAPA/Wix filter will work but at a restricted airflow ( in pic the napa filter is on left stock oem on right ), now after saying that I had a napa filter in my first deuce for several years and she ran fine.
The Mil regulator is attached to the back (inside) of the rear plate ( see pic ) you could try changing that out and do away with the aftermarket reg. The rear plate w/reg attached comes up for sale on E-bay every now and then, there are some venders who sell them also ( just can't remember who...
Gunny
The original timing on the T-245, 230 was set at 2°atdc, which "I believe" is because the engines had hand crank capabilities and after tdc would be easier to crank over the engine by hand. Later mil Tech bullitin ( Change 7 ) changed the timing to 2°btdc, so moving the timing to 4°before...
I set mine at 2°btdc ( sea level ) and she ran good.
Later I set the timing using a vacuum gauge which calls for 17-21inches for a good setting, I got mine to 20inches with a nice steady needle on the gauge ( engine at idle ), When I checked the timing mark it was now at 4°btdc and she ran like...
Don't know if its still up but does anyone have the link to PS Magazine article on making wood wheel chocks?, I can make/buy chocks but just want to do the mil spec ones.
I changed out the voltage regulator on my 60amp and its been running fine since., I 've heard/read that it ( VR ) fails the most ( as compared to bearings or armature ). but as mentioned better to carry a complete alt
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