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Take a prybar and bump the converter/flexplate fore and aft. It should move 0.004-0.008".

Is it slobbering out the air box drains? This is normal. There are check valves you can install that close the drains when the engine is running.

You can do both gaskets in the truck. Pull the heads with the exhaust manifolds attached. The problem is that you'll likely find damage from the fire rings fretting on the top deck of the block. The block may need to be resurfaced.

A modern extended life coolant with nitrites is best. A conventional coolant with nitrites is second best. Distilled water doesn't do anything so there is no reason to flush with it. IF you think your system is corroded use phosphoric or sulfamic acid to clean it, then flush with whatever water...

Fill it, idle it with the radiator cap off, watch for bubbles. Bubbles are bad.

A damper doesn't have to fail to be bad. Over time the rubber hardens and reduces the damper's ability to dampen. Broken crankshafts are one result but I wonder if the cracked main bearing webs are also symptom. If you do replace you damper the standard units all appear to be made by the same...

You clamp the negative clamp to a chunk of zinc and the positive to the gas cap. Dip then together in an electrolyte in a plastic bucket. Don't let them touch.

I use cylinder cutout tests to diagnose engines. I'll run 12 and 16 cylinder CAT engines on 3 cylinders. These cylinders run near torque limits and they bang like a cold start engine. It's not a problem. Just imagine the cylinders are making the same sounds they would at full power but are...

The rattle and bang is fine. Think of it as some cylinders running near full power to make up for the ones that aren't. It should be ok for cylinders to run at full power. That HMMWV was a bit hard to watch. The 6.2/6.5 engines want the pedal held to 50% for temperatures under 50° (or somewhere...

I would consider anything pre-aluminum radiator an older diesel. Nitrites can cause problems with brazed aluminum radiators. https://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_us/home/learning/from-chevron/industrial-machinery/nitrited-or-nitrite-free-coolants.html

If you're in California you get CARB diesel fuel. Everywhere else has EPA diesel fuel. The exact formula of fuel you get will vary station to station. There should be a sticker on the pump that says what type of diesel you're getting.

If it's pre-charged or fully formulated you DO NOT need the additional dose of SCA on the initial fill. With that said, you cannot add too much SCA. You could literally run an engine on straight SCA without doing damage. Normally dosed, you DO need to add SCA every 300 hours and change the...

If there is a slight difference in tubing diameter do consider that 10mm and 3/8 are very close in size but not close enough to be compatible like 8mm and 5/16. If you had dimension related issues it was likely due to metric vs standard incompatibility. For those trusting their these lines are...

The pre-diluted extended life coolants ARE 50/50 ethylene glycol and water with corrosion inhibitor. You MUST not run any coolant without corrosion inhibitors. If you WANT conventional coolant hit up your local Caterpillar dealer and ask for Cat DEAC coolant. It comes pre-diluted 50/50 and has...

Nylon may have questionable compatibility with some diesel fuels. https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2006-01-3326/ I don't know what diameter you're working with but this stuff resist just about every fuel at all temperatures and in sunlight...

If you don't know the history of your coolant then you must change it. If the system is in good condition, drain it, fill it with fresh water, drain it, and fill it with new coolant of your choice. Use the OEM coolant if you have any concerns about compatibility. Otherwise you'll need to do a...

The 831 means it's for an 8 cylinder engine and has the larger 0.31" plungers.

See if you can wedge a block of wood in there.

I have opened failed batteries. The plates are usually broken apart and sitting at the bottom of the cells. I don't think a welder can fix this.

Turbocharger bushings are meant to rotate in the housing. This means there is clearance between the shaft and the bushing and clearance between the bushing and the housing. All of this clearance makes them feel loose. As long as you can't make the compressor touch the housing the turbo is good...