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Maybe the "search" function is failing me (er...as usual...) but I can't find any old threads that include a reference to a TM (or whatever) showing an exploded view of the 5-ton MC. Anyone know what TM covers MC rebuilding for the 5-ton? The basic assembly is familiar, but there's this...

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@Scout - thanks for the update - haven't used a line-lock since 1980-something...when they were made of granite and switches hadn't been invented. That sounds like the simplest/bestest solution - though my air-tank drains so fast that I'd have to put an all-electric alarm horn or something...

@ Recovry: too long ago to remember whether Hi or Lo range - I suspect I'd made so many runs without incident by then that I'd left it in high-range on that occasion. Good point. Regarding "When it was time to leave I would have released the parking brake and started it in gear without the...

In doing some excavation on my steep hillside property, the only feasible place on my cramped steep sloping site to load my 5-ton has been on a dirt-and-gravel temporary driveway that runs sharply up from the narrow street below. With the truck backed up the driveway to amply clear the road...

If this happens again, one diagnostic method might be to crack open OTHER bleed valves in sequence, starting at front, to see for sure whether there's pressure anywhere else in the system - thus ensuring it really isn't that common rear hose acting as if a check-valve - though as you say, you'd...

adding attachment...if lucky...

I've just pulled apart the second of my two air-packs, both of which failed in that 'where'd my brake fluid GO' way (it was all in the air-cylinder, naturally). I'm not seeing any deals on ebay or elsewhere, and I'm kinda fed up with just putting these piles of parts aside for later anyway, so...

Funny you should ask... The one I started on may just be too far gone to rebuild - I'm thinking the air cyl might not matter as much (there are some seriously deep pits in the blind end) - but the slave cyl's pits probably would require honing beyond the specified max of 1.126". I took this...

Funny you should ask... The one I started on may just be too far gone to rebuild - I'm thinking the air cyl might not matter as much (there are some seriously deep pits in the blind end) - but the slave cyl's pits probably would require honing beyond the specified max of 1.126". I took this...

- Thanks again - I found this online at Direct support and general support ... - Google Books (or look for google books with that TM number) What I hadn't realized is that there would be such a vast difference in the quality of the two writeups. (I guess I changed somewhat between 1964 and...

The rebuilding process is...slow. I wouldn't rebuild an air-pack again, I don't think, though the $400+ new replacement cost does give me pause. Anyone got better sources? Turns out that the rebuilding TM (at least the one I am using) is not only half-useless because the images are so...

The rebuilding process is...slow. I wouldn't rebuild an air-pack again, I don't think, though the $400+ new replacement cost does give me pause. Anyone got better sources? Turns out that the rebuilding TM (at least the one I am using) is not only half-useless because the images are so...

Thanks, Bjorn...jeez...didn't know that could be DONE - gone without a trace, not even a 'this post has been deleted by its author?' That could be really confusing in a long thread. --Dave

I'm three years late to this party, and maybe that's why I can't figure out who the mysterious "Joseph" is, or where he apparently posted that he had solenoid valves for sale (umm...was there a post # 3-1/2?), or where to contact him to see if he's still got one kicking around! Anyone? --Dave

So it was the ground wire that you were wiggling, or the gauge wire? I'm thinking the more grounds, the merrier (if uglier). If one ground wasn't quite doing it, another one would have. So maybe it is/was really the wire leading up to the gauge that had parted internally? (On my truck, I've...

wait...who, me? I think I have eliminated any grounding issues (alligator jumpers to known grounds), but anyway, old gauge is steel S-W and new is mostly-plastic (Faria, I presume)

similar gauge issue here: during 'dry' testing with two different senders, my gauge needle 'vibrates' right around the correct levels as I raise/lower the float arm. (both senders show about the same resistance range - 0 to 35 ohms). I thought I would replace the gauge to see if that would...