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They look much better, I'd run it like that.

Welcome to SS Mark, glad to see you here.

Is this machine new to you, or have you seen it register correctly before... and now it isn't?

I'm going on what... 5 years? of sitting on hose assemblies for 80X machines. I've got dozens of sets of sheet metal here too. Incremental $ for what has to be laid out to get anything made. Hopefully someone can find stock crosses, or at least something that can be modified to work.

Madison is the OEM, same as the 802/803.... Just different design. Custom for these applications. Last VOLUME price I got on 802 double float switches was $225 ea plus freight. That was either 50 or 100 at a time!

KUS/WEMA it appears may make a civilian equivalent, just needs someone to discern from their marketing data what the right one is https://www.ebay.com/itm/254333646541 (it sold a few weeks ago, but is listed as a civilian equivalent)

The most common reason for the rack to stick is for one or more metering fuel pumps, to be gummed up and no longer rotating (which is what that rack is moving).

All pumps need to be set as close to identically as possible... This rotational position is the visual representation of how much fuel you are letting the pumps pump (as the internal diaphragm rotates with the fuel rack, either allowing flow of fuel, or shutting it off). I would think this...

Yes its best to take the reading perpendicular to the surface for true consistency, but yes surface condition does come into play as 2PB said. I would expect the jug closest to the fan to be the coolest as its adjacent to the water pump... the water jacket at the top end goes between all the...

No that spread is too large. If you look at where the fuel lines break out from the rigid line (off the fuel filter bowl), down to the individual metering pumps... the hose mounts onto barbs there. Is the position of each fuel line connection in about the same position (ie... is it almost...

Fermont should have included a free drink coupon in the operating manual, for those who uninstall one.

The shortcut is to swing the side panel on the operator cube out of the way, and use a chain wrench as high on the separator as you can and give it hell. WAY easier than all other methods.

They used to be cheap to buy new, $25-50 on fleabay. Nonexistent last I looked. NEW ones (in high volume) are over $200/ea. I am hording the small amount I have left.

Shoot me a PM, I should have what you want. They use the same item on an 802, and I have a couple here in parts.

Dremel with caution... very easy to pass into the barb which its grabbing onto. I use a pair of vice grips and squeeze the ridges of the cap together, which makes a raised area on the cap... which I can then cut with metal shears or a shear/crimp tool. Kurt covered the rest.

Future 805B owners thank you a lot! Plenty of these sets out there that will need the fix.

Its like 6x6" or so... Super highway entrance for rodent monsters

I am even less impressed with the AMMPS lineup now than before. Good thing they sell cheap....

I use 1/4" hardware cloth and self tapping sheet metal screws. Don't forget to cover the bigger offenders, the large square cutout in the skid base under the engine, as well as the round cutouts under each battery.

If it can't take a sustained 12 and shed effectively, it sounds like a design flaw for certain!