Search results

Depending on what it is specifically, the parts will cross to LPW2/LPW3/LPW4. DN4M is just a different part number for LPW4 (thanks, Onan).

00x ended 1992, with 80x starting in 1993-2012. I don't know of the start year on the 00xs though.

Its a pluck and chuck item for the military. Check all connections at the back, deoxidize where you can, and reinstall and see if it works. I have one if you end up needing to source.

Does that make you Bi? 2023 has me not knowing anything anymore :ROFLMAO:

Extremely clean. Looks like my 7 hour unfielded unit. Nice score.

They are identical engines... Lister Petter built them both. DN2M is just the Onan part number for the LPW2. You will find almost no Onan badging anywhere on the engine, except occasionally a sticker. Anything you need for that engine, use LPW2 to find parts. They will be cheaper than the Onan...

I think I used a 1/2-14 straight thread air hose barb on my drain setup (was in stock at napa... doesnt need to be tapered so long as it fully seats) with a length of hydraulic tube and a hose clamp. Small money, for much easier maintenance.

And moving sets is easy if you know the right folks, and either have access to a commercial dock (where you work, a friends business, etc) or you have a pallet jack or tractor with forks, that you can unload freight with right at your home address.

https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/ammps-1040-10k-generators.214645/

Yeah with standard forks... just take along a 36" piece of a 2x6 or something. Place it against the face of the machine, they put forks under the set the long way. Place in bed as far as they can, then use the block of wood at the front of the machine, and they push it the rest of the way in...

Will fit fine, just might ride heavy. I see no issue.

Good work. JLG is a subsidiary of Oshkosh trucks... so I'd be willing to bet its a Faria produced item, but with an Oshkosh # on it. They wouldn't make it different for them. Onan/Cummins is great for attaching their own number on someone elses part.

Yeah the sealed tops are nothing but a PITA. Thankfully Id say less than 5% of all sets that have come through my hands had it in place... they seemed to run just fine without it ;).

Normal green is A-OK. If you need a block valve I should have one as a takeoff.

I use this brand for my pullers, very heavy duty (have a few different sizes): https://www.posilock.com/product-category/manual-pullers/2-and-3-jaw-manual-pullers/ I would replace the bearing at the same time, for certain. Cheap insurance.

The part numbers are helpful. Only issue is there no stock anywhere in the world on either part currently, and the minimum order is 900 :poop: Maybe there are equivalents out there.

Listen, I think that modification was done to try to increase HP. If the mounting point is stationary, your HP is fixed... if you can speed up your mounting point, its gotta make like... +10HP. Faster is better, right? :sneaky:

I don't know for certain, but definitely looks like 400hz flight line equipment.

The gauge is for operator reference only, and does not control the coolant overtemp fault... So while I would also want it to read true on my machine, do know that the safety stop is separate from the readout.

There is a -24 for the complete machine, and one for the engine alone.