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How about something like this...

I believe he will refer to the section of the TM where it instructs you to get a kick in the butt.

And if you have any angles, (2) 45s are preferable to a single 90.

I would use a pellet stove wall passthrough adapter on whatever wall you want to exit. Run some 1.25" black iron pipe (same size as whats on the top of the muffler) out through it and seal as desired. Have that pipe hanging by threaded rod and brackets like you would a Modine heater, over to the...

Rubber mallet does clear it up. Proper disassembly and cleaning is best... but Ive gotten more than a few to work with a small nudge of the rubber mallet. Your mileage may vary.

The rubber mallet method works quite well, as called out above.

You probably aren't going to find a shop who will touch one of these sets, simply because they are not commercially available, so no tech would have been trained on them. You are your own mechanic with these machines. If the rest of us can help you get squared away, we will.

And once you get new ones in, check the output on your alternator to make sure you aren't going to have 2 more dead batteries in short order...

I shop around for battery deals... most of the time I can get 51Rs for $106/ea at my local Wal Mart. Just got some 34Rs at Napa when they were running a 20% off back to school online promo. But yeah TSC can be good too (and a little hint, if you buy online, at least at my local store... they...

Yeah I bought a fitting for the oil dump (off the shelf at NAPA... threaded one side, large barb on the other) that threads right in, with black hydraulic line that allows gravity drain. I want to say it was 1/2-14... but I am going off memory here. I bought it a number of years ago. The filter...

They are very high quality items, and a very fair price considering what the OEM unit goes for (and is not as good as Kurt's solution, in my opinion).

In the future the part that was 'pulled out' only needed to be forced left, to manually shut the metering pumps as Denvercaitland called out. OR... simply unplug the connector out of the back of it, which will kill the power to it, allowing the fuel rack to pull closed to its resting position...

I already got shipping confirmation on mine, we'll see if USPS manages to actually deliver them.

Nice find! It sure looks correct 1/4" JIC equates to -4 (and the F would be the female termination). The inside hose diameter is slightly larger than the OEM unit, but of zero real world consequence. Placing my order now. Appreciate the lookout Zed

The return fuel line and the flexible lines (from the fuel filter bowl to the metering pumps) have been covered well enough. The rigid metal lines from the pump to the separator base I have never experienced a failure on... but how about the line from the backside of the separator to the fuel...

Hopefully it rumbles through with minimal loss of life and property.

Meant to attach this to my reply

You will need to pull the roof to make your life easier. There are two gaskets in there... one between the pump and a plate, and the other from the plate to the water jacket. Take care with both of them, if you dont have spares on the shelf. The torque specs are in the Engine TM 9-2815-253-24...

Are you certain this is coolant? If you have a bad return line, it can send liquid dripping from the strangest points. Also drips are funny... you need to chase it from the top down. That leak can be monitored if need be to get you through, as it could be the pump was not tightened properly at...